Kacyc3

they have never worked on my car since i have owned it. I removed the actators and tested them with a 12 volt source and the didnt move, bought new ones they dont move either. Apparently I am not testing them correctly so what is the correct way?

hunt4cleanair

Actuators are electromechanical devices and work from within the system, meaning with switches. Ground comes from the right-hand side switch while left switch sends current to the actuator. I would suggest test them when connected to the circuit using switches.

So given as you state, they did not work in circuit (new actuators) suggests the cause is in the switch. Look at the backside of the switch...frayed wires? corroded contacts? I suspect these are the causes given the new actuators are in place. Even corroded linkage can compromise the system even when electrical is working.

This is a great do-it-yourself project that yields great satisfaction once you get those power door locks functioning as intended.

This article (link below) shows how to test actuators, switches, etc and describes their operation. See if this helps.

Power Door Lock Repair

Kacyc3

So if i have removed the factory alarm they may never work then?

hunt4cleanair

I don't know...how much of the factory equipment did you remove? There is the horn but also an array of switches, a relay and, than the fuse which energizes both power door locks and anti-theft. Actually, the switches set the anti-theft alarm off. While they are both on the same fuse, different circuits. Should not make any difference...power door locks should still function.

SwampeastMike

Momentarily "hot wiring" the actuators to power will operate them. If it doesn't move, reverse the leads and it should move--reverse the leads to get it to go the other way. Don't leave power attached more more than a second as doing so severely stresses the actuator motor.

The only connection between the factory alarm and the door locks is that (at least through '79) they both get power from the same circuit. The very late C3 years found starter kill as part of the factory alarm system (now on a dedicated fuse) but still no overlap in function with the power locks.

At some point in the mid/late '70s the "arm" and "disarm" functions of the alarm system moved to the driver door key. There is a special switch attached to the cylinder that arms/disarms the system when the door is locked/unlocked using the key. Even if you have removed the factory alarm system the power door locks will still function normally.

Kacyc3

whats left of the entire factory harness is in a box on a shelf. aftermarket harness installed bumper to bumper. Connected new power source to power wire for pl circuit of old harness.