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So I am nearing the point of buying parts for a 540 build and was looking for ideas etc... I would like to be around 650-700 horsepower on 92/93 octane. I also plan on keeping my Hooker header side pipes ( 2 1/8" primaries into 4" collectors) so as far as heads go I am worried about raised exhaust ports. I don't mind having the powerband higher up in the RPM range (4.11 gears and a 4 speed). The cam will definitely be a solid flat or solid roller.
Your goals can be easily reached with right head and cam package.
I built a 489 for my '70 Chevelle (which I just sold to buy my C5Z !!) 2 years ago. Just last month I dyno'd the setup and hit 610hp with a lean stumble on the top end-we figured once that was taken care of 650hp would have been easy for it, as we shut down the dyno run around 5800 rpm.
The build consisted of a standard bore factory block 2 bolt main with ARP studs. Scat 4340 crank, Scat H beam (6.385") and JE Pistons. AFR 290 heads, Straub hyd roller and port matched air gap. This setup was docile enough to drive daily but would really get after it if needed. Cam was .630/.610 ish, .247/.250 on 110 center.
Build was mocked after a couple other big block builds on the chevelle website. Believe one of them was running a similar setup in a 70 vette and was hitting mid to low 10's.
I kept compression at 10.7 so I could run pump 91. No issues with detonation.
Last edited by Blownchevelle68; 06-03-2016 at 02:16 PM.
Do you have block or anything yet...or starting from scratch? Didn't you have a nice set of heads?
JIM
As of right now I have the header side pipes, Weiand Team-G (R-Port w/ 4500 Pattern), Holley 1050 Dominator (I need to rebuild it), Moroso Oil Pan 7qt I think (is that big enough for a 540?). I am likely going to part out the 468. I am shopping for 540-555 short blocks right now.
That's pretty much where I am at with it right now. Weighing the cost vs benefit of 4340 crank and H-Beam rods or nodular iron crank and 4340 I-Beam rods. Any thoughts?
Always build the bottom end stout....these things rev fast and make a lot of power. You can do fine with a Callies Dragonslayer crank, SCAT rods and Mahle/SRP/Probe pistons. 4032 material allows things to be run a little tighter and quieter. Compstar is the "import" line of Callies and is OK...but I'd rather notch it up a little with a stick and some gears. Howards makes some decent cranks/rods too.
You've got to get the right pan to handle RPM with a 4.25 stroke. The Moroso's will do OK but oil level has to be just right. The Milodon 31188 is what I use. Fantastic and simple pan that always works.
The power is in the heads...so you have to pick well there.
You could ck with Mark Jones@ VortecPro or Mike Lewis@ Lewis Racing Engines for a great shortblock or whole engine.
Start off right, a Dart Big M block. Splayed caps, will stay together if twisted hard. A few pounds heavier, 70 I remember due to the high nickle content. A good starting point, around $2,000.00.
You've got to get the right pan to handle RPM with a 4.25 stroke. The Moroso's will do OK but oil level has to be just right. The Milodon 31188 is what I use. Fantastic and simple pan that always works.
JIM
Tell us more please (Mr Moore !) about strokers 'n' oil levels - I always seem to be have issues with 'oil level' etc with 'stock' type oil pan and what I thought was crankcase pressure (might have been oil level issue)
The front section of stock and many aftermarket pans is just too close to the rotating assy and oil can't get away from crank. If there isn't a real good windage tray it will pull the oil out of the pan and "rope" around the crank. You end up with not as much oil in the pan as you need, a whole lot less power and a bunch of foamed up oil that doesn't pump or lubricate very well.
Even the "good" Moroso pans are very picky about oil level. Those 6 qt pans will often have issues unless you take a 1/2 qt or so out. You can do some searching here and on the Chevelle forum for some tests. Ck out VortecPro and AJROTHM/Shouldn'tbehere for some data.
The thing I like about the 31188 Milodon is that it has a "kick in" sump instead of a "kick out" sump design. The bottom of the sump is a little smaller actually so that whatever oil gets back to the pan is higher over the pickup. It's not much...like 3/8" or so...but when you're only talking a couple of inches or so...3/8" is a lot. It also has a good windage tray in addition to a "kickout" area along the right pan rail so the oil has some place to go as the crank spins. The thing just flat works at just about any RPM on these things.
The only downside is it's dead even with the bottom of a scattershield...which isn't really an issue because most headers hang lower than that...but you still have to be aware that it's down there. My car sits low in the front and I get by OK. Many other aftermarket pans are only a half inch or so shallower.
A good pan is essential if you get much RPM at all.
The front section of stock and many aftermarket pans is just too close to the rotating assy and oil can't get away from crank. If there isn't a real good windage tray it will pull the oil out of the pan and "rope" around the crank. You end up with not as much oil in the pan as you need, a whole lot less power and a bunch of foamed up oil that doesn't pump or lubricate very well.
Even the "good" Moroso pans are very picky about oil level. Those 6 qt pans will often have issues unless you take a 1/2 qt or so out. You can do some searching here and on the Chevelle forum for some tests. Ck out VortecPro and AJROTHM/Shouldn'tbehere for some data.
The thing I like about the 31188 Milodon is that it has a "kick in" sump instead of a "kick out" sump design. The bottom of the sump is a little smaller actually so that whatever oil gets back to the pan is higher over the pickup. It's not much...like 3/8" or so...but when you're only talking a couple of inches or so...3/8" is a lot. It also has a good windage tray in addition to a "kickout" area along the right pan rail so the oil has some place to go as the crank spins. The thing just flat works at just about any RPM on these things.
The only downside is it's dead even with the bottom of a scattershield...which isn't really an issue because most headers hang lower than that...but you still have to be aware that it's down there. My car sits low in the front and I get by OK. Many other aftermarket pans are only a half inch or so shallower.
A good pan is essential if you get much RPM at all.
JIM
Jim, do you have any experience with Lunati rotating assemblies (Sledgehammer or Pro Series I believe)? I have been away for awhile and now I see they have ARP2000 bolts....worth the money to upgrade? 555 or 540? Is it worth it you think to have it punched out for the extra 15 cubes? What heads would you recommend for a 10.5ish:1, 555 that would be revving in the 7000ish range?
Do you think I would have issues with the pan scraping? I am still running stock springs up front and with the added weight of the big block and cast iron heads (I don't think it was as bad with the aluminum heads) I would usually scrape my Lakewood bellhousing on small speed bumps or uneven parking lot sections lol.
Jim, do you have any experience with Lunati rotating assemblies (Sledgehammer or Pro Series I believe)? I have been away for awhile and now I see they have ARP2000 bolts....worth the money to upgrade? 555 or 540? Is it worth it you think to have it punched out for the extra 15 cubes? What heads would you recommend for a 10.5ish:1, 555 that would be revving in the 7000ish range?
Do you think I would have issues with the pan scraping? I am still running stock springs up front and with the added weight of the big block and cast iron heads (I don't think it was as bad with the aluminum heads) I would usually scrape my Lakewood bellhousing on small speed bumps or uneven parking lot sections lol.
The Lunati stuff is good. I'd use at least the ARP 2000 bolts. Not a big deal for the extra cubes. These blocks last forever and don't wear so might as well do it. Easy 20 hp. Heads can go as crazy as you want. The AFR 335s or 315s are great baselines. The Brodix 332's would be good too. I like Brodix castings. Of course you can always get some that are reworked by Foxwell or others along with intake work. Just depends on how far you want to go and what you want. Getting good base parts allow you to notch it up later if you want to.
Would have to be careful with pan. Past that we need to look at some of the Morosos
555 ci is a great choice as it gives plenty of meat for later builds.
Dart and Merlin's go 4.630....so at 4.560 you have two more bores to use.....at $2000 a block...that is a big consideration....
Pick a 340 ish head from one of the Big Three (AFR,Brodix,Dart) and you will be happy.....
I do not like the Team G for a big motor....they just do not flow enough air......The Dart or Merlin intake with a mild clean up will suit you well.....
I have built this engine many times with the old Comp.....748/714 bracket cam and it loves it.....you may want to go smaller...but do not go too small....it is a lot of cylinder to fill......
Lunati pro series and Callies Magnum cranks are top notch.
The ARP2000 bolt upgrade is an excellent choice for minimal cash outlay. 210,000psi tensile over 180,000 for the 8740.
It is almost too easy to make 700+ horsepower with a 555.
Build it yourself and save big $$$$$$
The mentioned Dart Big M block is an excellent choice.....the Merlin II is a close 2nd.
Please keep us updated with what you decide to do.
Yep I forgot to mention the Dart 335's. Another great choice. I tend to go "big" on heads and though people might say it would give up TQ....it still made just under 750 lb ft and was able to make 871 HP with an "old school" cam that doesn't hurt parts. Pump gas, no vacuum pumps or really anything too fancy. With limited traction and a stick trans...moving powerband upwards a little was good for me.
But certainly any of these 335's are capable of 800'ish HP without crazy cams and have incredible throttle response.
You can make 750 HP with a HR easy enough these days...and a HR with a Dominator and good intake can make 800+.
Yep I forgot to mention the Dart 335's. Another great choice. I tend to go "big" on heads and though people might say it would give up TQ....it still made just under 750 lb ft and was able to make 871 HP with an "old school" cam that doesn't hurt parts. Pump gas, no vacuum pumps or really anything too fancy. With limited traction and a stick trans...moving powerband upwards a little was good for me.
But certainly any of these 335's are capable of 800'ish HP without crazy cams and have incredible throttle response.
You can make 750 HP with a HR easy enough these days...and a HR with a Dominator and good intake can make 800+.
JIM
I don't mind the powerband being pushed to the 7000-7500 range. As far as pistons is there a reason other than quietness to go with 4032 material vs say 2618? Can a solid roller with say .700ish lift survive on the street? I know the problem is spring pressure as it does a number on the needle bearings.
I don't mind the powerband being pushed to the 7000-7500 range. As far as pistons is there a reason other than quietness to go with 4032 material vs say 2618? Can a solid roller with say .700ish lift survive on the street? I know the problem is spring pressure as it does a number on the needle bearings.
Solid roller will definitely live on the street....the cam I mentioned above has easy ramps......use an Isky Red-Zone lifter for max durabilty....Crowers are very good as well.....
4032 allows tighter piston to wall......this improves overall longevity as well....they are also a bit less expensive and more readily available in case of a mishap.
06-03-2016, 11:30 AM
Looking For Ideas On A 540 Big Block Build....
