Oil pressure gauge line and fittings
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oil pressure gauge line and fittings
Gents,
The dreaded oil line (to gauge) leak finally got me. As a permanent remedy, I bought a Jegs kit (Part Number: 555-41058), equipped with -4AN Female Swivel Ends. Yes, I did that before I knew I couldn't connect the line without buying more stuff.
Car is a 1972 big block.
1. Is the 90 degree fitting on the back of the gauge (example: Corvette Mods Part Number:15119) necessary for gauge accuracy? (I just want to connect the line without an elbow.)
2. On the factory gauge, where the elbow fitting screws in, is that a -3AN size?
3. Will a -3AN male to -4AN male adapter (like Jegs Part Number: 023-FBM5048) suffice to connect the factory oil pressure gauge to the new line?
The dreaded oil line (to gauge) leak finally got me. As a permanent remedy, I bought a Jegs kit (Part Number: 555-41058), equipped with -4AN Female Swivel Ends. Yes, I did that before I knew I couldn't connect the line without buying more stuff.
Car is a 1972 big block.
1. Is the 90 degree fitting on the back of the gauge (example: Corvette Mods Part Number:15119) necessary for gauge accuracy? (I just want to connect the line without an elbow.)
2. On the factory gauge, where the elbow fitting screws in, is that a -3AN size?
3. Will a -3AN male to -4AN male adapter (like Jegs Part Number: 023-FBM5048) suffice to connect the factory oil pressure gauge to the new line?
#2
Racer
90 degree fitting is not necessary for gauge accuracy and will not affect reading. the threads on the gauge itself are pipe thread used with compression fittings.
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Primoz (09-29-2021)
#3
Safety Car
you do know they make 1/8" stainless line that you can use to replace the old.
glad to see your not installing plastic line. good luck !
actually he stated he is using stainless braided line.
it is about 3/8" thick and requires AN adapters.
1/8" stainless line is same diameter of the plastic line,
and uses same type of compression ferrules for the connection.
no adapters required.
glad to see your not installing plastic line. good luck !
actually he stated he is using stainless braided line.
it is about 3/8" thick and requires AN adapters.
1/8" stainless line is same diameter of the plastic line,
and uses same type of compression ferrules for the connection.
no adapters required.
Last edited by 69Vett; 08-16-2016 at 04:35 PM.
#5
Team Owner
I'll have to look through my Corvette file to see where I got my braided steel line kit. It has AN fittings that came with the kit. One for the block and one for the back of the gauge. Hopefully I still have that info. I'll be in the garage Wednesday and I'll look.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had a steady drip, so I took it to have the rear main seal replaced. That cost me a very reasonable $390. The mechanic noticed that I had an oil drip coming from inside the car, so he investigated further and found the leak. The plastic line (with compression fittings) was the culprit, so I decided to eliminate it in favor of the Jegs (braided, stainless line) kit.
Since the kit came with a grommet already installed on the line, I drilled the existing hole out to 3/4 (I assume it's where the original oil line came through, above and to the right of the accelerator pedal), and ran the new line through to the block and put the grommet in place. Now I just the correct size fitting to adapt from -4AN to whatever attaches to the back of the gauge. I really need to get this right since there's new carpet and a Custom Autosound radio at stake.
Thanks for the help!
Since the kit came with a grommet already installed on the line, I drilled the existing hole out to 3/4 (I assume it's where the original oil line came through, above and to the right of the accelerator pedal), and ran the new line through to the block and put the grommet in place. Now I just the correct size fitting to adapt from -4AN to whatever attaches to the back of the gauge. I really need to get this right since there's new carpet and a Custom Autosound radio at stake.
Thanks for the help!
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Primoz (09-29-2021)
#7
Team Owner
marc - I found what I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2960
Should have everything you need. I know I replaced the fitting on the back of the gauge with the 90 shown in the kit. Works great and has not leaked.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2960
Should have everything you need. I know I replaced the fitting on the back of the gauge with the 90 shown in the kit. Works great and has not leaked.
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blue427 (09-29-2021)
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm pretty sure the 90 shown in the photo is an AN4 male to 5/16-24 NPT female, but rather than try and hunt down the fitting, i"ll just order the kit and be done with it. Thanks very much for finding it and posting the info.
#9
Burning Brakes
Another option is to replace the '72 gauge with a '74 electric gauge along with a installing a '74 sender unit. Then you can eliminate a live oil line in the passenger compartment (assuming not having 100% originality isn't an issue with you).
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
marc - I found what I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2960
Should have everything you need. I know I replaced the fitting on the back of the gauge with the 90 shown in the kit. Works great and has not leaked.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2960
Should have everything you need. I know I replaced the fitting on the back of the gauge with the 90 shown in the kit. Works great and has not leaked.
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Primoz (09-29-2021)
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
#14
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2012
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2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Here's the one you want.
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1968...-154748-1.html
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1968...-154748-1.html
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Primoz (09-29-2021)
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Of course, I can't say that yours wont work, but mine appeared to be correct but wasn't. I started the car, the fitting/hose leaked, and in about 3 minutes I had a floorboard full of oil. If you do start the car with it attached that way, I'd recommend doing it with the gauge cluster in the floorboard in a pan of some sort. That way, if yours leaks like mine did, it wont ruin a bunch of expensive stuff.
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Primoz (09-29-2021)
#19
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2012
Location: Slovenia, EU
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2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Of course, I can't say that yours wont work, but mine appeared to be correct but wasn't. I started the car, the fitting/hose leaked, and in about 3 minutes I had a floorboard full of oil. If you do start the car with it attached that way, I'd recommend doing it with the gauge cluster in the floorboard in a pan of some sort. That way, if yours leaks like mine did, it wont ruin a bunch of expensive stuff.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
This, in fact, was quite a pain in the **** as I recall (not counting the floorboard full of oil part). It took a lot of internet searching to locate all the parts, but eventually, I was able to cobble together the stuff to do it. That copper line from Retro-Motive was the hardest to find, and I literally never found a short version.