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Headlight relay hissing

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Old 08-19-2016, 10:57 PM
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billschroeder5842
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Default Headlight relay hissing

I'm asking for a little help with my head light relays as I appear to have a vacuum leak. I'd like to know if they need attention for my 82.

First the lights go up and down as they should but with the drivers side is a bit on the lazy side.

All the hoses have a good fit , but I noticed that both relays have a slight "hiss" coming from the bottom. This hiss is confirmed with a small hose in my ear and probing the end near the relays.

My guess is that it is not normal to have the hiss and really unusual to have both sides?

So, is this something that I should just leave alone--- after all the lights do go up and down, just not in unison or very quickly? Or can the relays be rebuilt so they hold total vacuum or am I resigned to buy two new ones?

Thanks!
Old 08-19-2016, 11:18 PM
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Antz81
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If both relays are hissing I'd replace them both. Wouldn't hurt to check the rest of the system for vacuum leaks either.
Old 08-20-2016, 06:55 AM
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Alan 71
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Hi b,
If you decide to replace your relays (I'd first try to determine where exactly the 'hiss' is to be certain you need to spend the money) be sure to buy them from a reliable source since too often the new relays available today don't work, or prove to be unreliable.
Perhaps Willcox?
Regards,
Alan
Old 08-20-2016, 09:26 AM
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billschroeder5842
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So the suggestion is take it apart and rebuild? I'm reasonably handy and like to do a bit of research before unbolting things (I've make enough mistakes) I've looked for a few tutorials and have come up short... is this pretty straight forward?
Old 08-20-2016, 09:32 AM
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terry82
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I had one that was slow ,I sprayed wd 40 in the relay ports it now is the same as the other side.
Old 08-20-2016, 10:04 AM
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Dave J
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The relays will make a sound when the vacuumed hose is vented to atmosphere during it's duty cycle, but not for very long. If what you are hearing is for more than a couple of seconds, you have a vacuum leak. Both actuating positions inside the relay chamber vent to the bottom of the relay.

Rather than go into a long explanation of why the newer relays fail, I will just offer this. If your relays are indeed original GM (AC SPARK PLUG DIV molded into the plastic base), and the top control chamber holds vacuum (most do, easy to check) I can rebuild them for you for just the cost of postage back to you. I do not rebuild the non GM relays for many reasons. PM if interested

Last edited by Dave J; 08-20-2016 at 10:08 AM. Reason: posted too soon
Old 08-20-2016, 10:29 AM
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Street Rat
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I just checked the price on a genuine GM relay. $94 and some change for one.
Old 08-20-2016, 10:58 AM
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Dave J
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I just checked the price on a genuine GM relay. $94 and some change for one.
I occasionally check out what's on the market out there. Alas, out of the last 3 new "genuine" GM relays I personally purchased, 2 leaked. One from the piston seal, and the second from the top control chamber. I also checked the diameter of the control chamber bore and found all 3 were different. Not as bad as the imports, but not like the originals I've tested.

Rebuilt them and sold them

You're right, $94!?
Old 08-20-2016, 11:23 AM
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bmotojoe
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Originally Posted by Dave J
The relays will make a sound when the vacuumed hose is vented to atmosphere during it's duty cycle, but not for very long. If what you are hearing is for more than a couple of seconds, you have a vacuum leak. Both actuating positions inside the relay chamber vent to the bottom of the relay.

Rather than go into a long explanation of why the newer relays fail, I will just offer this. If your relays are indeed original GM (AC SPARK PLUG DIV molded into the plastic base), and the top control chamber holds vacuum (most do, easy to check) I can rebuild them for you for just the cost of postage back to you. I do not rebuild the non GM relays for many reasons. PM if interested
This is a very generous offer!

Last edited by bmotojoe; 08-20-2016 at 11:26 AM.
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