71 Park lights will not shut off
#21
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The next thing you might want to check is the headlight switch connector.
Remove the wires and see if the connector melted and shorted the orange wire to the brown.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....jsn=__GIX__3__
The vacuum hoses are only to open and close the headlights.
Remove the wires and see if the connector melted and shorted the orange wire to the brown.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....jsn=__GIX__3__
The vacuum hoses are only to open and close the headlights.
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gnkjoy (08-22-2016)
#22
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The next thing you might want to check is the headlight switch connector.
Remove the wires and see if the connector melted and shorted the orange wire to the brown.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....jsn=__GIX__3__
The vacuum hoses are only to open and close the headlights.
Remove the wires and see if the connector melted and shorted the orange wire to the brown.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....jsn=__GIX__3__
The vacuum hoses are only to open and close the headlights.
#23
The only way you can get parking lights on is to put 12v on the wire. That 12v normally comes from the power source to the headlight switch. If you unplug that connector and the lights go out, that eliminates all other sources for 12v to get to that wire. If it was shorted to another source, the lights wouldn't go out when you unplug it. The dimmer switch has no connection to the parking lights, only the 12v from the switch goes to the dimmer when the headlights are on (and only when on) and then it divides into bright and dim there. It never connects to the parking lights, and even if wired wrong and it did, there would be no 12v with the switch in the parking light position anyway. As far as a ground problem, if the headlight switch is off, there is no scenario where the voltage is feeding back due to a loss of ground, you wouldn't have 12v to feed anywhere. The problem is inside your switch.
Get your old switch and measure from the 12v connector to the parking light connector. With the switch pushed off, you should not have continuity between the two. Pull it on and it should read shorted between the two connectors.
Once you plug that connector back on, the 12v MUST be coming through the contacts inside the switch.
Get your old switch and measure from the 12v connector to the parking light connector. With the switch pushed off, you should not have continuity between the two. Pull it on and it should read shorted between the two connectors.
Once you plug that connector back on, the 12v MUST be coming through the contacts inside the switch.
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gnkjoy (08-22-2016)
#24
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The only way you can get parking lights on is to put 12v on the wire. That 12v normally comes from the power source to the headlight switch. If you unplug that connector and the lights go out, that eliminates all other sources for 12v to get to that wire. If it was shorted to another source, the lights wouldn't go out when you unplug it. The dimmer switch has no connection to the parking lights, only the 12v from the switch goes to the dimmer when the headlights are on (and only when on) and then it divides into bright and dim there. It never connects to the parking lights, and even if wired wrong and it did, there would be no 12v with the switch in the parking light position anyway. As far as a ground problem, if the headlight switch is off, there is no scenario where the voltage is feeding back due to a loss of ground, you wouldn't have 12v to feed anywhere. The problem is inside your switch.
Get your old switch and measure from the 12v connector to the parking light connector. With the switch pushed off, you should not have continuity between the two. Pull it on and it should read shorted between the two connectors.
Once you plug that connector back on, the 12v MUST be coming through the contacts inside the switch.
Get your old switch and measure from the 12v connector to the parking light connector. With the switch pushed off, you should not have continuity between the two. Pull it on and it should read shorted between the two connectors.
Once you plug that connector back on, the 12v MUST be coming through the contacts inside the switch.
Another thing pointing to being a switch problem is that there is no continuity with the switch in the park light position; only when in the pulled all the way out in the headlight on position. However both switches have the same condition.
Just talked to Mid America and they have authorized a return and are shipping a new switch today. I will report back when after trying the new switch.
#25
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Since both switches are acting (and check) the same when out of the car...but problem was with only the later switch...what I posted in post #14 is still applicable:
1.) you have a grounding problem that is allowing 12v to feed into the parking light circuit (could have been caused when you worked on the switch);
OR
2.) working on and around the switch, some electrical circuit/wiring/ground got changed, damaged, or swapped by accident.
Are you absolutely sure about where to connect each wire to the headlamp switch? Your problem could easily be a mispositioned or swapped wire.
1.) you have a grounding problem that is allowing 12v to feed into the parking light circuit (could have been caused when you worked on the switch);
OR
2.) working on and around the switch, some electrical circuit/wiring/ground got changed, damaged, or swapped by accident.
Are you absolutely sure about where to connect each wire to the headlamp switch? Your problem could easily be a mispositioned or swapped wire.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 08-22-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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gnkjoy (08-22-2016)
#26
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Thanks. I have performed that check. Both old and new switches show open circuit between red power terminal and brown light terminal with switch in off position. When either switch is plugged in there is 12v at the brown terminal in off position. I have removed each wire from the connector, cleaned them and used Scotch pad on the terminals. Wires all look good as does the connector; no signs of burning or melting.
Another thing pointing to being a switch problem is that there is no continuity with the switch in the park light position; only when in the pulled all the way out in the headlight on position. However both switches have the same condition.
Just talked to Mid America and they have authorized a return and are shipping a new switch today. I will report back when after trying the new switch.
Another thing pointing to being a switch problem is that there is no continuity with the switch in the park light position; only when in the pulled all the way out in the headlight on position. However both switches have the same condition.
Just talked to Mid America and they have authorized a return and are shipping a new switch today. I will report back when after trying the new switch.
#27
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Since both switches are acting (and check) the same when out of the car...but problem was with only the later switch...what I posted in post #14 is still applicable:
1.) you have a grounding problem that is allowing 12v to feed into the parking light circuit (could have been caused when you worked on the switch);
OR
2.) working on and around the switch, some electrical circuit/wiring/ground got changed, damaged, or swapped by accident.
Are you absolutely sure about where to connect each wire to the headlamp switch? Your problem could easily be a mispositioned or swapped wire.
1.) you have a grounding problem that is allowing 12v to feed into the parking light circuit (could have been caused when you worked on the switch);
OR
2.) working on and around the switch, some electrical circuit/wiring/ground got changed, damaged, or swapped by accident.
Are you absolutely sure about where to connect each wire to the headlamp switch? Your problem could easily be a mispositioned or swapped wire.
I believe as 65GGvert stated; a grounding/short circuit condition should yield park lights on even if the wire harness is disconnected from the headlight switch. In the off position and disconnected the switch does not have continuity between the red power wire terminal and the brown park/tail light terminal. If it's open how would you see 12v at the brown terminal by plugging in the connector. It seems logical that the short circuit is in the switch. Am I missing something?
#28
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I am sure about the wire connections. I never removed any wires until today. Also, both new and old switches exhibit the same conditions.
I believe as 65GGvert stated; a grounding/short circuit condition should yield park lights on even if the wire harness is disconnected from the headlight switch. In the off position and disconnected the switch does not have continuity between the red power wire terminal and the brown park/tail light terminal. If it's open how would you see 12v at the brown terminal by plugging in the connector. It seems logical that the short circuit is in the switch. Am I missing something?
I believe as 65GGvert stated; a grounding/short circuit condition should yield park lights on even if the wire harness is disconnected from the headlight switch. In the off position and disconnected the switch does not have continuity between the red power wire terminal and the brown park/tail light terminal. If it's open how would you see 12v at the brown terminal by plugging in the connector. It seems logical that the short circuit is in the switch. Am I missing something?
#29
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The one thing I don't fully understand is the contact point arrangement on the for the red (power) terminal. Can't see anything that would cause it to be open. What is the purpose?
So now I don't believe a new switch is the answer. One question is does the switch itself require a ground? I don't see it by the wiring diagram.
#30
Team Owner
The grease that was in there is a dielectric grease. It is intended to keep air from reaching the contact points so that they don't 'burn' from arcing. Don't remove it from the new one you receive.
After reviewing the electrical schematic for the Corvette, I do not believe there is a ground going to the headlamp switch.
After reviewing the electrical schematic for the Corvette, I do not believe there is a ground going to the headlamp switch.
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gnkjoy (08-23-2016)
#31
Team Owner
The contact at the end of the rheostat for dash dimmer touches the bracket and grounds it to turn on the interior lights when fully rotated. I don't see how that can affect the parking lights. I wish you were close by, I think we could put a voltmeter on that brown wire and start eliminating sources where it can get 12v.
I made an edit to the contact to the dash dimmer grounding.
I made an edit to the contact to the dash dimmer grounding.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 08-23-2016 at 01:22 PM.
#33
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I'm assuming your side marker lights stay on also?
I know you've tested it, but it really sounds like the shaft isn't opening the contacts when you push it to off. That's all I can think of that would make your emerg flasher work normally, lights normal, and park lights go off when you unplug the connector.
If I understand correctly, it worked until you corrected the dimmer issue. Exactly what did you do? I'd disconnect the dimmer completely. There's no connection I can see, but I'd be desperate by now.
I know you've tested it, but it really sounds like the shaft isn't opening the contacts when you push it to off. That's all I can think of that would make your emerg flasher work normally, lights normal, and park lights go off when you unplug the connector.
If I understand correctly, it worked until you corrected the dimmer issue. Exactly what did you do? I'd disconnect the dimmer completely. There's no connection I can see, but I'd be desperate by now.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 08-23-2016 at 01:26 PM.
#34
Team Owner
Thanks. I have performed that check. Both old and new switches show open circuit between red power terminal and brown light terminal with switch in off position. When either switch is plugged in there is 12v at the brown terminal in off position. I have removed each wire from the connector, cleaned them and used Scotch pad on the terminals. Wires all look good as does the connector; no signs of burning or melting.
Another thing pointing to being a switch problem is that there is no continuity with the switch in the park light position; only when in the pulled all the way out in the headlight on position. However both switches have the same condition.
Just talked to Mid America and they have authorized a return and are shipping a new switch today. I will report back when after trying the new switch.
Another thing pointing to being a switch problem is that there is no continuity with the switch in the park light position; only when in the pulled all the way out in the headlight on position. However both switches have the same condition.
Just talked to Mid America and they have authorized a return and are shipping a new switch today. I will report back when after trying the new switch.
#35
Team Owner
Try a quick check of the Willcox diagram that Peterbuilt posted and make sure you have the correct colors of wires in the correct slot. Possibly what you're measuring for the contacts that go to the brown wire are not actually the correct contacts.
As Foghorn Leghorn says to the little chicken, "I say, I say, it just doesn't add up".
As Foghorn Leghorn says to the little chicken, "I say, I say, it just doesn't add up".
#36
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Yep Jack!!!
1)OK- lets try to figure where problem is coming- the front of the car or the back.
Try disconnecting the 12 pin harness ( 8 wires on it) that runs to the rear of the car- that way you'll know which tail to chase. Located above the fusebox- what it looks like-see below
2) Where's the constant power coming from? Actually pull the hazard flasher - as it has constant power and the parking lights might not pull enough power to flash. Then pull fuses-till the lights go out.
Lets us know-
1)OK- lets try to figure where problem is coming- the front of the car or the back.
Try disconnecting the 12 pin harness ( 8 wires on it) that runs to the rear of the car- that way you'll know which tail to chase. Located above the fusebox- what it looks like-see below
2) Where's the constant power coming from? Actually pull the hazard flasher - as it has constant power and the parking lights might not pull enough power to flash. Then pull fuses-till the lights go out.
Lets us know-
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gnkjoy (08-29-2016)
#37
Team Owner
Yep Jack!!!
1)OK- lets try to figure where problem is coming- the front of the car or the back.
Try disconnecting the 12 pin harness ( 8 wires on it) that runs to the rear of the car- that way you'll know which tail to chase. Located above the fusebox- what it looks like-see below
2) Where's the constant power coming from? Actually pull the hazard flasher - as it has constant power and the parking lights might not pull enough power to flash. Then pull fuses-till the lights go out.
Lets us know-
1)OK- lets try to figure where problem is coming- the front of the car or the back.
Try disconnecting the 12 pin harness ( 8 wires on it) that runs to the rear of the car- that way you'll know which tail to chase. Located above the fusebox- what it looks like-see below
2) Where's the constant power coming from? Actually pull the hazard flasher - as it has constant power and the parking lights might not pull enough power to flash. Then pull fuses-till the lights go out.
Lets us know-
#38
Team Owner
PS, that's the emergency flasher, not the turn signal flasher.
#39
Team Owner
Turn signal flasher module is behind the right-side passenger dash pad (low and to the right). Yes, your problem could be a bad flasher module that is locked in the ON position...but only if the flasher **** has been pulled.
However, if the flasher module has failed in the ON position and the flasher **** has NOT been pulled, I'm not sure what result you would get. The module (which feeds the parking & tail lights) would be in the ON state even though power should not be going to it. Would that set up some kind of weird power routing? I don't know...
However, if the flasher module has failed in the ON position and the flasher **** has NOT been pulled, I'm not sure what result you would get. The module (which feeds the parking & tail lights) would be in the ON state even though power should not be going to it. Would that set up some kind of weird power routing? I don't know...
Last edited by 7T1vette; 08-24-2016 at 12:20 AM.
#40
Team Owner
The emergency flasher is the one that plugs into your fuse panel. It's the one that's powered with ignition off and the one you should pull. It's a long shot, but it will eliminate one more thing.