350/290 crate + 700R4 + 2400 Stall in 81 vette
#21
Melting Slicks
Ok, I did the math: with a 2.87 rear gear, 27" tires (I believe that's stock), and the 700r4's OD gear ratio of 0.70 (with TC locked) @ 60 mph that puts your engine speed @ 1,500 RPM.
1375 RPM @ 55 MPH
1250 RPM @ 50 MPH
1750 RPM @ 70 MPH
If it doesn't lug, you should get pretty awesome highway fuel economy if you dial that qjet in well.
I like to tempt people to spend their money so one other thought is to buy one of the many TPI intakes from Ebay or the 3rd Gen site -if you're only dealing with 290 HP the TPI won't be a huge restriction and many of the available TPI intakes have already been ported. -This will give you a really fun significant boost in low to mid RPM torque, the EFI will improve your fuel economy a bit more, AND it will move your torque peak lower in the RPM range to support your low RPM cruising with your 2.87 rear gears and 0.70 OD (no lugging and mild fuel economy improvement from the cruise RPM being closer to the torque peak / volumetric efficiency peak). -Plus TPIs look badass.
It really is easy to spend other people's money! lol!
Adam
1375 RPM @ 55 MPH
1250 RPM @ 50 MPH
1750 RPM @ 70 MPH
If it doesn't lug, you should get pretty awesome highway fuel economy if you dial that qjet in well.
I like to tempt people to spend their money so one other thought is to buy one of the many TPI intakes from Ebay or the 3rd Gen site -if you're only dealing with 290 HP the TPI won't be a huge restriction and many of the available TPI intakes have already been ported. -This will give you a really fun significant boost in low to mid RPM torque, the EFI will improve your fuel economy a bit more, AND it will move your torque peak lower in the RPM range to support your low RPM cruising with your 2.87 rear gears and 0.70 OD (no lugging and mild fuel economy improvement from the cruise RPM being closer to the torque peak / volumetric efficiency peak). -Plus TPIs look badass.
It really is easy to spend other people's money! lol!
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; 10-14-2016 at 01:40 PM.
#22
Melting Slicks
My guess is that you'd be fine with just the stock radiator-based trans cooler.
(My 4l60e starts going in my 79 next week with a 2300-2500 stall and I'm planning on just using a champion 3 row with the integrated trans cooler- the transmission computer reports on the trans temps so I'll be able to monitor and know whether I'm going to need to buy an additional aftermarket trans cooler or not.) -I know trans life is directly correlated to fluid temps, so a trans cooler is probably a good idea anyway, but I'm hoping that a 3 row aluminum radiator will keep it in the appropriate range. -It doesn't get that hot in Seattle, anyway.)
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; 10-14-2016 at 01:44 PM.
#23
OMG, drove the car home tonight (5 days until it goes into winter storage)... my mechanic friend told me both the carb and the distributor need work,, however, the following are my feelings:
- I LOVE the idle on the camed engine,, very nice
- new engines are MUCH smoother than old engines
- Exhaust MUCH louder with camed engine (same exhaust, same intake)
- 2400 stall converter is very cool,, and recommended (I did have trans cooler installed at same time).
- 700R4 shifts very smoothly
- 700R4 has much better 1st gear then th350
- 700R4 isnt that big a drop to second gear
- 700R4 4th gear is useful on the highway at normal HW speeds even with 2.87 diff
I AM VERY HAPPY
- I LOVE the idle on the camed engine,, very nice
- new engines are MUCH smoother than old engines
- Exhaust MUCH louder with camed engine (same exhaust, same intake)
- 2400 stall converter is very cool,, and recommended (I did have trans cooler installed at same time).
- 700R4 shifts very smoothly
- 700R4 has much better 1st gear then th350
- 700R4 isnt that big a drop to second gear
- 700R4 4th gear is useful on the highway at normal HW speeds even with 2.87 diff
I AM VERY HAPPY
Last edited by Diablozx9; 10-17-2016 at 09:37 PM.
#25
Racer
I got excited when I saw this thread. I am finishing up my installation of a ZZ4 and a 2004R into my 1981. Due to some trivial issues and mega procrastination, this project has taken way too long. However, I spent a few hours on it this last weekend and got a lot of things tied up. I'm excited and motivated to start it up before the snow flies here. The installation into my old 1980 was so much easier and straight-forward and without all the computer crap. However, it had a T350 which was a super easy install.
My last and biggest concern is getting rid of the ugly wires and connectors associated with the computer. Also, I'm wondering if I'd be better off running a new battery and tach wire to the distributor. I believe the stock connection was a 4 prong connector.
Diablozx9...not to steal the thread, how did your friend wire up your distributor? Post some pictures of your install and car, I'd love to see them.
My last and biggest concern is getting rid of the ugly wires and connectors associated with the computer. Also, I'm wondering if I'd be better off running a new battery and tach wire to the distributor. I believe the stock connection was a 4 prong connector.
Diablozx9...not to steal the thread, how did your friend wire up your distributor? Post some pictures of your install and car, I'd love to see them.
Last edited by 1980ZZ4; 10-18-2016 at 12:11 AM.
#26
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
Posts: 33,899
Received 4,179 Likes
on
2,739 Posts
I'm thinking that 2,000-2,200 rpm would be just right in the 60-70 mph highway speeds......1,500 rpm at 60 mph sounds too low on the rpm for an engine with 300 hp or less.
IMRO (InMYRookieOpinion)
IMRO (InMYRookieOpinion)
#27
In reply to one question regarding how did my friend wire dist & wires,, he actually complained that my wires were to long. I will be re-doing the wires next year.
Just got back from bringing car to winter storage.
A very sad day. Raining and 6 degrees (Celsius,, a little over freezing for Americans) in Ottawa,, still a fun drive.
I thought the tall rear end and 4th gear would be to much also. It really doesnt seem to be a problem. Drives very well at all speeds. Tried driving in 3rd,, but ended up putting it back in 4th. BTW, I dont have lockup connected on my 700R4.
One thing about noise/ sound volume.... Cams make engines a lot louder. I was thinking that the Magnaflow was to quiet until the new long block with cam. It is much louder now. This may help others who read confusing comments about exhausts.
I will miss the car for a few months.
Just got back from bringing car to winter storage.
A very sad day. Raining and 6 degrees (Celsius,, a little over freezing for Americans) in Ottawa,, still a fun drive.
I thought the tall rear end and 4th gear would be to much also. It really doesnt seem to be a problem. Drives very well at all speeds. Tried driving in 3rd,, but ended up putting it back in 4th. BTW, I dont have lockup connected on my 700R4.
One thing about noise/ sound volume.... Cams make engines a lot louder. I was thinking that the Magnaflow was to quiet until the new long block with cam. It is much louder now. This may help others who read confusing comments about exhausts.
I will miss the car for a few months.
#28
update one year later.
This summer, replaced mismatched Torker intake with performer Air.
Replaced leaking VERY old holley with new one.
(this will cause debate) i added high flow cats.
- it was to loud for the wife
- it was to stinky for wife
it honestly runs quieter, less stinky but, no real difference in power.
Car is running great.
still considering:
- 3.55 rear end
- cold air intake
- H-pipe before cats
This summer, replaced mismatched Torker intake with performer Air.
Replaced leaking VERY old holley with new one.
(this will cause debate) i added high flow cats.
- it was to loud for the wife
- it was to stinky for wife
it honestly runs quieter, less stinky but, no real difference in power.
Car is running great.
still considering:
- 3.55 rear end
- cold air intake
- H-pipe before cats
#29
Instructor
This is great info and I'm SO glad to hear you're happy with the swap. I have an 81 as well and I'm just getting ready to do a similar swap. I'm going to document the process in THIS THREAD and I'm pumped about the 700R4.
Did you ever find out about the speedo gears. I called Bowtie overdrives for the shifter and I had used their speedo calculator online (which they said was currently not working properly) so they went through everything with me which was helpful. For a 2.87 rear end with 255/60/16 (mine measured 26.75") they said I needed the following:
Drive gear = 17 tooth
Driven gear = 36 tooth
I've got the Trans Go shift kit in my 700R4 along with the B&M downshift kit and a 2600 stall. I'm excited to see how this works with the new engine which should be just over 350hp.
Keep us updated on how it goes.
Did you ever find out about the speedo gears. I called Bowtie overdrives for the shifter and I had used their speedo calculator online (which they said was currently not working properly) so they went through everything with me which was helpful. For a 2.87 rear end with 255/60/16 (mine measured 26.75") they said I needed the following:
Drive gear = 17 tooth
Driven gear = 36 tooth
I've got the Trans Go shift kit in my 700R4 along with the B&M downshift kit and a 2600 stall. I'm excited to see how this works with the new engine which should be just over 350hp.
Keep us updated on how it goes.
Last edited by Khibbs; 10-12-2017 at 09:53 PM.
#30
speedo gears are not my area. I ordered the 700r4 from Jegs and they took care of the proper speedo gears.
BTW, good idea recording your experience with upgrade on here. I am sure others will benefit.
BTW, good idea recording your experience with upgrade on here. I am sure others will benefit.