MarkinSETX

Alrighty. The interior on my 81 gets pretty warm after a while. The PO replaced carpeting and interior work, but they did not put down any dynamat or other hear barrier. I also need to check the vacuum and switch for the AC controls, but that's another topic. What would be the best to start with in getting the heat out of the cabin? I am thinking pull the seats and install dynamat under the carpet, swap out to ceramic headers, or maybe wrap the exhaust under the cabin. What to start with? Any headers a direct swap or will i have to have them welded up if I go that route? Thanks for any tips.

​​​​​​Stroked 383, mild cam, I think stock pretty much everything else.

jim in oregon

hmm..B4 you redo the interior insulation..
Take time to troubleshoot the hvac system, vacuum stuff..vent controls etc..Get the A/C system looked at by someone competent..

Even in texas..in warmest weather..your car can be comfortable to drive IF the A/C and vents-ductwork are working properly..jim

lvmyvt76

MarkinSETX

OK, that's a solid tip. I will evaluate the ac first. The air is cold, it just comes out at your feet. I am not sure they got the vacuum hooked back up to the switch to control the dampers, or if the switch is leaking. I will run that all out first, cheaper than pulling up the interior. I learn a littler more about this all the time. Thanks for the suggestion of a starting point.

Street Rat

Good a/c system, dark tint on Windows/t-tops, dynamat/dynaliner, good weather strips. I've got a black on black '81 that will freeze you out in the Texas weather. Feel free to pm me with any questions.

kanvasman

And if you're not a fan of dark tinted windows, I believe there is a clear film that they can apply that knocks out a lot of the heat coming thru the glass.

Scottd

1) roll down the windows
2) Cowboy the fawk up

Sorry, up North where we only get 14 hours of summer, we envy you guys. I cant imagine operating this car in real heat, I know my cabin with the tops off and windows down will still make me sweat on a 90 degree day.

OMF

Put that foam insert in the trans tunnel to block the heat from getting through there....

terry82

I would get a infrared heat gun .there cheap now.drive for a short then point at the floor ,fire wall or any were you think the heat is coming from. on my 82 there were lots of places on the fire wall that had leaks.put on a manual in line water shut off valve.seal the ac box inside the engine compartment.https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&pag...d%20heat%20gun

maxmachz

If the air only comes out at your feet, there is a small vacuum line that has come apart right behind the distributor in the engine bay that controls the vent selection. Look close with a bright light and you'll find it.

7t9l82

I have dark tint on side windows and rear window and clear ceramic film on glass tops and windshield, unbelievable difference.

Street Rat

This too.

MarkinSETX

Even at 102 I prefer to ride with the windows down, I don't use the ac. This is to make my wife comfortable driving it. I am used to the heat and it doesn't bother me.

MarkinSETX

Thanks for the tip on the vacuum line, I just haven't traced it out from the switch. I am hoping it's just a line disconnected and not the switch leaking. I have been looking thru the aim and at some of Wilcox diagrams, just have not taken the time to delve into it yet.

I will look at the tranny tunnel pad, will probably start with dynamat in the cabin first and see how that works. I have a thermal gun, will have to pull it and get some readings. Thanks for all of the tips.

I have thought about tinting, but the heat is from the engine bay and transmission more than the windows. I can deal with the temp, it will probably feel nice in the winter. My wife doesn't like to sweat, she is a firm believer in ac. If I can get the ac running right that would help, but I would like to keep the heat out better do the ac can function to its fullest extent. Thanks again for the tips.

jim in oregon

6 screws and a lamp socket hold the glove box INTERIOR in place..Behind the glove box is a bypass valve with 2 vac lines going to it AND the cable mech that is connected to the temp control lever on the hvac console..The cable possibly needs to be adjusted so when temp is set to Cold and max A/C is selected and fan on HI..the hot water is shut off to the heater hose solenoid AND the proper vent doors are opened..This adjustment is best Done with glove box interior out, car running and R/S console panel removed..The cable is adjusted shorter or longer by the turnbuckle affait in the cable...Not sure why but many cars of our vintage have that cable mal- adjusted..and it's a simple fix..Jim

rebel542

There is a book published by Prestige Publishing, Air Conditioning Strategies for the 63-82 Corvette written by Michael J Davis. This book will solve all your problems, even if you don't do but half of what he suggest. The one thing you can't live without is the insulation. I used the stuff that looks like thin bubble wrap with foil backing on my 79. Install it everywhere. Even on the firewall and behind the pillow post moulding. I get 41* out of my vents even on the hottest North Carolina days.

Street Rat

The book is out of print. I got lucky and found one on flea bay. Excellent information if you can find one.

I made a mistake.

Edit: I just checked Amazon and there are some used and new ones available.

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Condition.../dp/0934786097