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You can have all the current producing capability you want; and you can have all the current using equipment you want. But, if you don't have a wiring distribution system which can safely handle that amount of current, fuses/circuit-breakers/fusible links will blow, or wiring will get hot & catch fire.
THE WIRING WHICH FEEDS ALL THAT CURRENT HAS TO BE CAPABLE OF CARRYING IT. The main bus wire that feeds the existing fuse block can only handle so much current [the amount of current that model year car expected to see]. If you add a bunch of current-eating equipment onto the car, either the existing power feed (and ground) wiring needs to be upgraded...OR...new power feed wiring needs to be run to handle a separate fuse block for the new equipment.
I'm not trying to give you any trouble here...I'm trying to prevent an electrical catastrophe from happening to your car. Bottom line: You CAN'T hook all that new stuff up to your existing fuse block terminal and expect it all to work right and not cause problems.
I don't know if that helps you to understand the issues or not...but I'm hoping it does.
Ok I understand what you are saying now. A fire is exactly what I'm trying to avoid!
I have all of these little items hooked up to my factory fuse box IGN and ACC terminals. There are no other terminals to use unless I piggyback onto one of the other wires. This is why I wanted to add an additional fused ignition box. To accept these accessories safely. My alarm system and it's sensors have an assortment of at least 5 wires to hook up at the factory fuse box. It looks like a rat's nest in there. It's an accident waiting to happen.
Last edited by Street Rat; 10-06-2016 at 09:51 AM.
[QUOTE=7T1vette;1593191612]If you add a bunch of current-eating equipment onto the car, either the existing power feed (and ground) wiring needs to be upgraded...OR...new power feed wiring needs to be run to handle a separate fuse block for the new equipment.[QUOTE]
I have run 8ga wire to the relay supplying the new fuse box and an 8ga ground from the relay to ground.
My understanding is that you have taken power from the existing fuse block to feed the new one. If that is NOT the case, you may be fine. The new block should get its power directly from the battery or from the alternator; my preference would be from the battery.
Whether from battery or alternator, it needs to feed thru a circuit breaker to the new fuse block. That breaker should be capable of at least the total current of all items that it feeds (which have their own fuses).
My understanding is that you have taken power from the existing fuse block to feed the new one. If that is NOT the case, you may be fine. The new block should get its power directly from the battery or from the alternator; my preference would be from the battery.
Whether from battery or alternator, it needs to feed thru a circuit breaker to the new fuse block. That breaker should be capable of at least the total current of all items that it feeds (which have their own fuses).
Are we getting closer together?
I've got a 100 amp fuse holder connected to a stud in the engine compartment. The stud connects to the battery and alt. The wire from the fuse is 8ga routed directly to the new relay.
I think I've got it now.
The only thing that will be hooked up to the old fuse box (besides factory fuses) will be a 10ga used for the trigger/switch contact on the relay.
Last edited by Street Rat; 10-06-2016 at 10:21 AM.
Reason: add photo
Is there a circuit breaker or fusible link in that line from the stud to the new fuse block? There should be, as I mentioned in my prior post. If there is, you seem to have things in good order. A 10awg wire to feed gauges and relays is probably overkill, but it has a VERY good safety factor; absolutely no problems there.
It took me a few months but I got the new fuse panel install finished. I ran my after market alarm, shift lite, Hobbs switch, and fuel pressure gauge of off the new box. I'm using the new fuse box as a hookup location for accessories that need power in START and RUN.
I'm using the positive side of the relay to hook up accessories requiring a CONSTANT 12v source.
This has cleaned up the wiring at my factory fuse block considerably. I was afraid of getting a fire there. The wires looked like a bowl of spaghetti prior to the modification. No more hacking into other wires or fuse connections at the old box.
10-04-2016, 06:52 PM
