Front suspension and steering
10-02-2016, 07:16 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Front suspension and steering
As I am making my list of parts to order before I get started on the front end on my 79, I was wondering about the steering control valve and piston. I am planning to replace all the bushings tie rods etc. Also new brakes and lines to make the car road worthy. I was wondering if I should plan to have to replace the control valve and piston as well or if I should do all the other parts and see what happens. I know the steering is all over the place now, but all the bushings etc are worn out. I plan to do the rear too, but not at the same time.
10-02-2016, 07:33 PM
#2
Race Director
I would replace the control valve and cylinder if needed.
You are aware that the 'balancing;' of the control may be needed or checked.
DUB
You are aware that the 'balancing;' of the control may be needed or checked.
DUB
10-02-2016, 07:43 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Yes. I was going to check that as well once I get the car up to look at it closer. Just was wondering about the general consensus based on experience with these.
10-02-2016, 07:43 PM
#4
Team Owner
The poor quality of the [professionally ?] rebuilt control valves is appalling. I highly recommend that you rebuild your control valve and install a new seal pack in the power cylinder. Both are relatively easy to do and the rebuild kits are inexpensive. You already know that both components work properly, so it's a simple replacement of wear parts job.
Clean both parts well before rebuld. Disassemble the valve carefully and make notes/photos of part sequence and orientation as you go. Then, you can rebuild in reverse order and swap out replacement seals/etc as you go. Paint with semi-gloss black when done.
You must also replace the hoses while you are at it (if they have several years of use).
Research {Google} how to purge air out of the system BEFORE you start the engine and also how to re-balance the control valve.
Clean both parts well before rebuld. Disassemble the valve carefully and make notes/photos of part sequence and orientation as you go. Then, you can rebuild in reverse order and swap out replacement seals/etc as you go. Paint with semi-gloss black when done.
You must also replace the hoses while you are at it (if they have several years of use).
Research {Google} how to purge air out of the system BEFORE you start the engine and also how to re-balance the control valve.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 10-02-2016 at 07:44 PM.
10-02-2016, 07:48 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Already watched a video on replacing the valve and balancing it. Was wondering about doing the rebuild myself as I saw several kits available while researching prices to replace.
10-02-2016, 07:51 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Sometimes I feel like a pest asking all these questions on here, but I like to research alot about how to do things before I start so I know what I'm doing and how it should be done to avoid doing it all over again. Thanks again for all the help everyone gives on here.
10-03-2016, 02:50 PM
#7
Team Owner
I think that this is the primary purpose for the Corvette Forum [C3]. DIY owners who have never done a specific type of repair need tips on how BEST to do them with LEAST cost and trouble. The only way to know that is to have already done it. So those of us who have are willing to share that info to assist others in their efforts.
We had help before we learned. It's just our turn to "pay-it-back".
P.S. You're next!!
We had help before we learned. It's just our turn to "pay-it-back".
P.S. You're next!!
10-03-2016, 05:49 PM
#8
Race Director
I wrote:
I would replace the control valve and cylinder if needed.
You are aware that the 'balancing' of the control may be needed or checked.
I was basing it on my experience (30 yrs) with these components.
And did not want to write that while you are spending money...spend more and buy more parts.
And not knowing if yours are leaking or if you have excessive movement in your control valve...or worn out bushing for the shaft of the p/s cylinder....I was just offering advice on what I look at so the steering is good and responsive without excessive free play. Because I get Corvettes in my shop sometimes where these parts look really bad but function perfectly.
I am glad that you are the type of person who ASKS questions....and does research before just jumping into the abyss. SO...from my perspective...you are not a pest.
DUB
I would replace the control valve and cylinder if needed.
You are aware that the 'balancing' of the control may be needed or checked.
And did not want to write that while you are spending money...spend more and buy more parts.
And not knowing if yours are leaking or if you have excessive movement in your control valve...or worn out bushing for the shaft of the p/s cylinder....I was just offering advice on what I look at so the steering is good and responsive without excessive free play. Because I get Corvettes in my shop sometimes where these parts look really bad but function perfectly.
I am glad that you are the type of person who ASKS questions....and does research before just jumping into the abyss. SO...from my perspective...you are not a pest.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 10-03-2016 at 05:49 PM.
10-03-2016, 07:51 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
I haven't had a chance to get it up and really check all the components for leaking yet. Was mainly wanting to know what to expect when I get under there and what most people find needs to be done. Hopefully they are good, but won't know for sure till I get under it. And thanks for the positive responses to my questions. Hopefully as I get more knowledge and experience with these cars I can help people too. Mechanically I've done alot over the years, but I know every car has its differences that need to be addressed accordingly.
10-03-2016, 11:48 PM
#11
Team Owner
Even if you find that the hoses are the only item actually leaking, the fact that the control valve and cylinder have many years and miles of service lead me to think that it might be time to rebuild them WHILE you are working in that area. But, that call is yours to make. I can't argue that you shouldn't' leave well enough alone' if there is no existing problem with a component.
10-04-2016, 06:55 PM
#12
Race Director
AND...IF you are going to remove the hoses from the power steering system. Hopefully they are still facotry correct. The reason I write this is the new hoses are not 100% correct. SO...BEFORE you take them off...you might want to take a photo of it...so when you go and begin to install the new hose kit (if needed)...you do not pull your hair out because the two hoses for the cylinder to the control valve are bent wrong..and the ends are not pointing in the correct position when installed....and you wonder why your hoses look all twisted up. Pay very careful attention to the ends that go into the cylinder and how they come out and begin to direct the rubber hose potion of the hose assembly to the control valve.
DUB
DUB
10-04-2016, 07:17 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Sounds like I'll be taking lots of pics through the process to get it all back right. Thanks for the heads up about that. I plan to photo document the entire rebuild anyway, but that's just one more reason to be very detailed with the pics.
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MobileGreg (10-10-2016)
10-04-2016, 08:27 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
To answer the OP's question, I would not do anything on the steering system until you determine if there is a problem. Case in point, my 78 with 67,000 OEM miles on it has all original PS components...I have never touched it all these years except I rebuilt my PS pump a few years back when the front pulley shaft seal started to leak. With that said, every other component in my front end has been replaced over the years or upgraded (Spreader bar), poly upper and lower control arm bushings (No, they do NOT squeak) etc. Most of the steering slop in C3's originates from the OEM recirculating Ball steering box (and a worn ragjoint) which was sloppy from the factory. I had my OEM steering box custom rebuilt/blueprinted by GTR1999 a few years ago and the steering response, feel, and directness of the car now is incredibly different and better than when the car was brand new.....I would replace all the basic components first before touching the PS control valve and PS cylinder BUT all C3's can benefit from a rebuilt blueprinted OEM steering box....The point is the handling, steering response and feel is superb with the OEM steering components as long as everything is up to snuff on the car....I would go after the Steering box before the other components if nothing is leaking or noticeably worn....I would highly recommend rebuilding blueprinting your OEM box only...no rebuilds
Last edited by jb78L-82; 10-04-2016 at 08:41 PM.
10-04-2016, 09:02 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
This may be a stupid question, but what exactly is the rag joint? I know all the other parts by name but that one I'm not sure about. I assume maybe it is the the joint just above the gear box on the steering shaft?
10-04-2016, 09:08 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the detailed list terry82. I'm sure it will come in handy for the problem areas. I also plan to clean heavily and paint everything as I re-work the various parts of the car. I have to drop the fuel tank soon and replace the straps as they have rusted and I dont trust them, so I plan to clean everything up in there and paint as well. I also need to find and replace the rubber spill donut that goes around the fuel filler while I'm at it. A lot of little things that I what all done at once, but obviously this will be a project for a while. First goal is get it where it can be driven safely between projects so I can enjoy the investment and keep myself motivated to keep working on it. Like I read already, there"s nothing like the feeling of driving the car and seeing the fenders out in front of you while you drive, even if the paint is ugly as sin for now.
10-04-2016, 09:40 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
I checked on ecklers and I see they have a rebuild kit for the rag joint. Has anyone used this versus doing a full replacement? If so, does it come with all the parts and instructions to do the job and is that as good as a full replacement, obviously a lot less at about $15 instead of $65.