Broke the Engine in my 'Vette. Comp Cam 292 in a 350?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Broke the Engine in my 'Vette. Comp Cam 292 in a 350?
So my helpers took my '74 home and spent three months of spare time doing bodywork and painting. After they were finished, they were driving it to work and it quit on the freeway. No spark, pulled the distributor, and the gear on the cam is not turning. We figure the timing chain broke, probably bent valves, etc. So I was going to put in a fresh motor anyway...
'74 coupe, P/S, P/B, A/C. I have a 350 in the garage ready to assemble, flat top pistons, 64cc heads, Edelbrock carb and manifold, header sidepipes, 4 speed and 3.55 gears. My buddy has a 292 Comp cam still in the box he offered. This will be a fun weekend car, don't care about mileage. Do y'all think this will be a good combo?
'74 coupe, P/S, P/B, A/C. I have a 350 in the garage ready to assemble, flat top pistons, 64cc heads, Edelbrock carb and manifold, header sidepipes, 4 speed and 3.55 gears. My buddy has a 292 Comp cam still in the box he offered. This will be a fun weekend car, don't care about mileage. Do y'all think this will be a good combo?
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96 lt-4 (10-20-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
#5
Le Mans Master
Stick a timing set in it and drive it like you stole it. Take your time and build a new engine exactly the way you want it.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Always verify compression before choosing a cam. While you have the motor apart and on a stand it's so easy to cut up some plexiglass and measure the piston and head chamber volumes with oil or alcohol or some other liquid. Once you measure volumes with liquid you have as accurate measurement as any professional race team.
With iron heads and a big cam building the correct compression ratio is going to be a narrow choice. Or in your case since you already have the pistons and heads that leaves you with choosing a cam to match. Also consider your drive train ratios.
For a long duration cam correct manifolding can help weaker heads. Single plane intake and shorter header lengths will increase the volumetric efficiency VE at higher rpm regardless how good the heads are. Something to consider.
Well measure your volumes and calculate your static compression ratio and we can choose a better cam from there.
Hope this helps.
With iron heads and a big cam building the correct compression ratio is going to be a narrow choice. Or in your case since you already have the pistons and heads that leaves you with choosing a cam to match. Also consider your drive train ratios.
For a long duration cam correct manifolding can help weaker heads. Single plane intake and shorter header lengths will increase the volumetric efficiency VE at higher rpm regardless how good the heads are. Something to consider.
Well measure your volumes and calculate your static compression ratio and we can choose a better cam from there.
Hope this helps.
#8
Le Mans Master
For a quick test of the valves, you could loosen all the rockers and remove the pushrods. Then remove the spark plugs and blow air into each one with a rubber tip blow gun to see if they hold air or it leaks through the intake or exhaust.
#9
Dr. Detroit
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: New Braunfels Texas
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I have used that cam many times......it is very radical sounding but not awful to drive. In fact I have it in my 406 right now. It breaks in easy and has lazy lobes.....it is a 25 year old grind....BUT....if eeking eevery last horsepower possible is not a concern.....run it.
It will need at least 9.5 to 1 and heads that flow 240 cfm on the intake side or better.....it will also need a 3000 stall and headers.
Do NOT choke the exhaust with this cam......it will run like a turd.
I am sure a lot of folks here will disagree....but it is the best sounding flat tappet cam out there to me.
This is a 10.5 to 1 406 with Dart Pro 1 200cc heads...Ported Team G...750HP holley...Hedman headers...2 1/2 exhaust.
Jebby
It will need at least 9.5 to 1 and heads that flow 240 cfm on the intake side or better.....it will also need a 3000 stall and headers.
Do NOT choke the exhaust with this cam......it will run like a turd.
I am sure a lot of folks here will disagree....but it is the best sounding flat tappet cam out there to me.
This is a 10.5 to 1 406 with Dart Pro 1 200cc heads...Ported Team G...750HP holley...Hedman headers...2 1/2 exhaust.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; 10-17-2016 at 07:37 PM.
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Athens GA
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
I have used that cam many times......it is very radical sounding but not awful to drive. In fact I have it in my 406 right now. It breaks in easy and has lazy lobes.....it is a 25 year old grind....BUT....if eeking eevery last horsepower possible is not a concern.....run it.
It will need at least 9.5 to 1 and heads that flow 240 cfm on the intake side or better.....it will also need a 3000 stall and headers.
Do NOT choke the exhaust with this cam......it will run like a turd.
I am sure a lot of folks here will disagree....but it is the best sounding flat tappet cam out there to me.
This is a 10.5 to 1 406 with Dart Pro 1 200cc heads...Ported Team G...750HP holley...Hedman headers...2 1/2 exhaust.
Jebby
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqRU5W8j0Fg
It will need at least 9.5 to 1 and heads that flow 240 cfm on the intake side or better.....it will also need a 3000 stall and headers.
Do NOT choke the exhaust with this cam......it will run like a turd.
I am sure a lot of folks here will disagree....but it is the best sounding flat tappet cam out there to me.
This is a 10.5 to 1 406 with Dart Pro 1 200cc heads...Ported Team G...750HP holley...Hedman headers...2 1/2 exhaust.
Jebby
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqRU5W8j0Fg
The proof is in the details......
Choke a big cam and it will run poorly. Some people blame the cam.
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Jebbysan (10-17-2016)
#11
Dr. Detroit
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: New Braunfels Texas
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I have bought the shelf 110lsa and it is a bit lazier down low.....
This was suggested to me by an oval track friend in Canada that I worked with once and I have read that David Vizard agrees with this thinking...
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; 10-17-2016 at 08:28 PM.
#13
Melting Slicks
The 292 cam isn't way too large a cam, but I would go 383 on the motor and then run a EFI setup and watch the motor come alive and run as efficient as it gets...bonus. Good luck with your next upgrade.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm gonna run header sidepipes, 4 speed, 3.55 rear, so no problems with wimpy exhaust or converter...my buddy just offered me a 400 for $250. Some heads and flat tops...hmmmmm
#16
Melting Slicks
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Richard Daugird (10-18-2016)
#17
Burning Brakes
I read somewhere that a cam that runs relatively smooth with lots of cubes (such as a 406) runs a lot rougher / is more radical with a smaller engine (such as a 350).
#18
Le Mans Master
One thing I forgot to mention is I usually have these ground on a 108 lobe seperation which it likes a lot.....
I have bought the shelf 110lsa and it is a bit lazier down low.....
This was suggested to me by an oval track friend in Canada that I worked with once and I have read that David Vizard agrees with this thinking...
Jebby
I have bought the shelf 110lsa and it is a bit lazier down low.....
This was suggested to me by an oval track friend in Canada that I worked with once and I have read that David Vizard agrees with this thinking...
Jebby
#20
The engine is non-interference, so I wouldn't worry about valves being bent. The cam? I say run it. I've seen the CC292 in an otherwise stock '70 (or '71, don't remember) 350 run just fine. Not the best combo, but it was fun.