Rally wheel questions
#21
Race Director
Whoever told you that lug centric is as safe as hub centric is wrong, they just want to sell you a set of wheels. The wheel studs are NOT supposed to support the weight of the car, the lip on the axles are supposed to do that. That's why ALL factory wheels no matter what make or model of vehicle have lips on the axles and wheels with a hole in the middle them to fit onto the axle lip. All the wheel studs are supposed to do is hold the wheel up against the face of the axle, they are NOT supposed to be supporting the weight of the car. If lug centric was as safe as hub centric the auto makers wouldn't bother making axles with lips on them and wheels with holes in the middle of them that are sized to fit snugly onto the axle lip. Lug centric is NOT correct and it is NOT safe, I absolutely refuse to run lug centric rims on any of my cars.
And before you do read this other thread. I DO agree with you with the new rally wheels that have the very large center hole. I just do not like it.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ric-rings.html
DUB
#22
Race Director
I really don't see the problem. If the tires and wheels are balanced, the proper hub spacers (steel) are installed, then they should be fine, otherwise the Department of Transportation would force all wheels to be hub-centric. Right?
#23
Racer
Starting with my 72 C10 short bed, an 85 Dodge full size, 90 Dodge full size, 98 Dodge short bed, 06 Colorado and my 75 Vette all had lug centric after market rims. My trucks were used and abused hauling fire wood, cement blocks, sand and gravel. I've had my frame rails sitting on the axles on more than a few occasion. It is more than reasonable to prefer hub centric over lug centric wheels but safety is not a legitimate concern.
When I bought my after market chrome rally's this summer for the 75 I had the tire shop balance with the lug plate adapter and have had zero problems with vibration or shimmy. I will add that I torque my wheels in 3 stages starting at 35psi then 55 then 85 in a cross hub sequence. This approach insures my rotors are not warped by too much pressure on 1 spot and the wheel is centered on the lugs properly.
To each his own, if you feel more assured with hub centric that is what you should use. I have been on the road since 67 and have had no problems with centering on the lugs.
Jerry
When I bought my after market chrome rally's this summer for the 75 I had the tire shop balance with the lug plate adapter and have had zero problems with vibration or shimmy. I will add that I torque my wheels in 3 stages starting at 35psi then 55 then 85 in a cross hub sequence. This approach insures my rotors are not warped by too much pressure on 1 spot and the wheel is centered on the lugs properly.
To each his own, if you feel more assured with hub centric that is what you should use. I have been on the road since 67 and have had no problems with centering on the lugs.
Jerry
Last edited by shenango; 10-28-2016 at 09:19 PM.
#24
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Kissimmee fl
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Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '07
A few years ago, here in Fl. at the Thanksgiving weekend Turkey Rod Run, I came across a vendor selling new Kelsey Hayes Rally wheels. They were from the original tooling that is (was?) in Mexico. Aside from the fact that the tooling was a bit worn, causing major burrs on the back of the holes (easily cleaned up before painting), they are a perfect match for the originals. That vendor also had 4 clip trim rings and GM reproduction derby caps. IIRC, I hauled out of there 4 rims, caps and rings for $600.00.
Having said that, I do not have any info to share for contacting that vendor. Turkey Run is is here in a few weeks, maybe a holiday trip to Daytona?
Good luck with your search. My guess is that they are still available out there.
Having said that, I do not have any info to share for contacting that vendor. Turkey Run is is here in a few weeks, maybe a holiday trip to Daytona?
Good luck with your search. My guess is that they are still available out there.
#25
A few years ago, here in Fl. at the Thanksgiving weekend Turkey Rod Run, I came across a vendor selling new Kelsey Hayes Rally wheels. They were from the original tooling that is (was?) in Mexico. Aside from the fact that the tooling was a bit worn, causing major burrs on the back of the holes (easily cleaned up before painting), they are a perfect match for the originals. That vendor also had 4 clip trim rings and GM reproduction derby caps. IIRC, I hauled out of there 4 rims, caps and rings for $600.00.
Having said that, I do not have any info to share for contacting that vendor. Turkey Run is is here in a few weeks, maybe a holiday trip to Daytona?
Good luck with your search. My guess is that they are still available out there.
Having said that, I do not have any info to share for contacting that vendor. Turkey Run is is here in a few weeks, maybe a holiday trip to Daytona?
Good luck with your search. My guess is that they are still available out there.
Last edited by TheGreek!; 10-31-2016 at 03:55 PM.
#26
Team Owner
Whoever told you that lug centric is as safe as hub centric is wrong, they just want to sell you a set of wheels. The wheel studs are NOT supposed to support the weight of the car, the lip on the axles are supposed to do that. That's why ALL factory wheels no matter what make or model of vehicle have lips on the axles and wheels with a hole in the middle them to fit onto the axle lip. All the wheel studs are supposed to do is hold the wheel up against the face of the axle, they are NOT supposed to be supporting the weight of the car. If lug centric was as safe as hub centric the auto makers wouldn't bother making axles with lips on them and wheels with holes in the middle of them that are sized to fit snugly onto the axle lip. Lug centric is NOT correct and it is NOT safe, I absolutely refuse to run lug centric rims on any of my cars.
#27
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Kissimmee fl
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St. Jude Donor '07
Funny you should mention that. I just bought 4 brand new NOS Kelsey Hayes C3 rims on ebay, they cost me 556.00 after shipping. The guy I got them from said that he purchased them many years ago at the Carlisle show. They don't have the center caps or trim rings but a friend of mine here in Tucson has them, they're in excellent condition and he said he'll sell them to me for 100 bucks. The rims haven't been painted yet though, they're still all black which is how they come from Kelsey Hayes. Does anyone know what would be the correct or close to correct silver paint for them and where I can get it?
I do not know if the Argent Green is still available from any vendors, but I had it formulated at Bens paint here in Orlando, Fl. when I painted my wheels. They said anyone could then come in and buy that color using my name as the locator for the formula. Let me know if you need more details.
#28
IIR, You need just regular Agent wheel and bumper paint if it is for 72 and newer Corvette wheels. For 68-71, the argent had a greenish tint.
I do not know if the Argent Green is still available from any vendors, but I had it formulated at Bens paint here in Orlando, Fl. when I painted my wheels. They said anyone could then come in and buy that color using my name as the locator for the formula. Let me know if you need more details.
I do not know if the Argent Green is still available from any vendors, but I had it formulated at Bens paint here in Orlando, Fl. when I painted my wheels. They said anyone could then come in and buy that color using my name as the locator for the formula. Let me know if you need more details.
Last edited by TheGreek!; 11-01-2016 at 10:19 PM.
#29
Race Director
If you can find an automotive paint retailer in your area, they usually have a wide selection of automotive grade paint in rattle cans that are better suited, will last longer, look better and protect the surface better than Krylon or other brands you can pick up at any home improvement store.
#31
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Kissimmee fl
Posts: 1,650
Received 51 Likes
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Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks for the info. My car is a 69 but it doesn't have to have the greenish tint paint, the 72 and later silver color will do just fine. Is there any duplicolor paint that I can get from an auto parts store thats close to correct? Anything from Krylon that's close to correct?
#32