Vapor canister interchange?
#1
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Vapor canister interchange?
Pulled the vapor canister out of my '73 and was wondering if anyone has used a '74 or later vapor canister in their pre-'74 vette? If so, any line hookup differences? Saw article on replacing the charcoal, but just plugging in a later year canister looks easier than trying to 'glue the old canister back together - and safer, I'd assume. Thanks for any input.
#2
Racer
Check out this thread...I believe Tooch1 also has a 73. It looks like the bottom pops off with a screw driver, so you should be able to change the charcoal and filter and shouldn't have to glue anything back together.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Good luck.
MajD
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Good luck.
MajD
#3
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Hi S,
I think the determining factor may be the number of 'pipes' on the top of the canister you choose as a replacement.
For instance 70-72 canister tops have the line from the separator on the side of the tank, and then two lines running to the carburetor.
I think your 73 has 3 pipe/lines also?
I believe some later canisters have just 2 pipes?
Regards,
Alan
When you pop off the bottom it gives you access to the fibrous 'pancake' filter, but not the charcoal itself.
I think the determining factor may be the number of 'pipes' on the top of the canister you choose as a replacement.
For instance 70-72 canister tops have the line from the separator on the side of the tank, and then two lines running to the carburetor.
I think your 73 has 3 pipe/lines also?
I believe some later canisters have just 2 pipes?
Regards,
Alan
When you pop off the bottom it gives you access to the fibrous 'pancake' filter, but not the charcoal itself.
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-04-2016 at 05:18 PM.
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Saddlehorn (12-04-2016)
#4
Racer
Never mind...I see it looks like the second filter screen has to be cut out to get to the charcoal. Sorry about that.
MajD
MajD
Last edited by MajD; 12-04-2016 at 05:18 PM.
#5
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Thanks - appreciate the response. It does look like I'll have to cut the old one open to replace the carbon. Have heard of folks using JB weld epoxy and/or super glue to glue the canister back together. If the canister is polyethelene, then not many glues will work well.
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Hi S,
Member CraigH from Australia posted a thread in which he gives instructions and photos showing how to replace the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-canister.html
Click Craig's link in post #3.
Member CraigH from Australia posted a thread in which he gives instructions and photos showing how to replace the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-canister.html
Click Craig's link in post #3.
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-04-2016 at 05:47 PM.
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Saddlehorn (12-04-2016)
#7
Race Director
Pulled the vapor canister out of my '73 and was wondering if anyone has used a '74 or later vapor canister in their pre-'74 vette? If so, any line hookup differences? Saw article on replacing the charcoal, but just plugging in a later year canister looks easier than trying to 'glue the old canister back together - and safer, I'd assume. Thanks for any input.
Why do you feel you need to replace the charcoal??
DUB
#8
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Noticing a gas smell in garage, but not bad. The canister is original but the car was stored for many years before I got it. Possible the carbon is still OK? I checked to see if the gas odor was coming from the vicinity of the gas tank, and it is not. Gas tank is new and the 'vent' device on the tank top (side) was replaced at the same time.
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Hi S,
I believe I'd check that the fuel separator on the side of the gas tank is actually in working order, and that the hose connections at the top of the canister and at the carburetor are correctly run.
If the 2 hoses running from the canister to the carburetor aren't routed properly, and to the correct ports on the carburetor, the vapor which has attached to the surface of the charcoal charcoal won't be drawn into the engine to be burned.
If there is an excess of vapor (more than the charcoal can store) the vapor is vented through the bottom of the canister. That's why some folks begin by replacing the pancake filter which is easy/inexpensive to do.
These can all be done before resorting to replacing the canister or the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
I believe I'd check that the fuel separator on the side of the gas tank is actually in working order, and that the hose connections at the top of the canister and at the carburetor are correctly run.
If the 2 hoses running from the canister to the carburetor aren't routed properly, and to the correct ports on the carburetor, the vapor which has attached to the surface of the charcoal charcoal won't be drawn into the engine to be burned.
If there is an excess of vapor (more than the charcoal can store) the vapor is vented through the bottom of the canister. That's why some folks begin by replacing the pancake filter which is easy/inexpensive to do.
These can all be done before resorting to replacing the canister or the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-05-2016 at 08:31 AM.
#10
Burning Brakes
Noticing a gas smell in garage, but not bad. The canister is original but the car was stored for many years before I got it. Possible the carbon is still OK? I checked to see if the gas odor was coming from the vicinity of the gas tank, and it is not. Gas tank is new and the 'vent' device on the tank top (side) was replaced at the same time.
Hope this helps,
Jimmy
#11
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Thread Starter
Hi S,
I believe I'd check that the fuel separator on the side of the gas tank is actually in working order, and that the hose connections at the top of the canister and at the carburetor are correctly run.
If the 2 hoses running from the canister to the carburetor aren't routed properly, and to the correct ports on the carburetor, the vapor which has attached to the surface of the charcoal charcoal won't be drawn into the engine to be burned.
If there is an excess of vapor (more than the charcoal can store) the vapor is vented through the bottom of the canister. That's why some folks begin by replacing the pancake filter which is easy/inexpensive to do.
These can all be done before resorting to replacing the canister or the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
I believe I'd check that the fuel separator on the side of the gas tank is actually in working order, and that the hose connections at the top of the canister and at the carburetor are correctly run.
If the 2 hoses running from the canister to the carburetor aren't routed properly, and to the correct ports on the carburetor, the vapor which has attached to the surface of the charcoal charcoal won't be drawn into the engine to be burned.
If there is an excess of vapor (more than the charcoal can store) the vapor is vented through the bottom of the canister. That's why some folks begin by replacing the pancake filter which is easy/inexpensive to do.
These can all be done before resorting to replacing the canister or the charcoal in the canister.
Regards,
Alan
#12
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Thread Starter
Having just gone through all this with my 73 ( see my previous posts), recheck everything, especially the hoses going to the canister. You state yours is original, make sure the hoses aren't dry rotted or cracked. My original hose 'yellow stripe" connecting the canister to the metal line going back to tank was cracked. But I couldn't see that until I crawled under the car. It looked ok up top. But it was bad at the clamp connection. My previous posts on here show how to change the lower filter. Another place to check for leaks, even though you say you have a new tank, is around the filler neck. Pull up your rubber boot back there and check the gasket area where the filler neck is attached to the tank. My car had a new tank installed too by the previous owner, but two of those little screws connecting the neck to the tank had the rubber seal washers missing and I was getting some seapage around there. Just saying!
Hope this helps,
Jimmy
Hope this helps,
Jimmy
#13
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Thread Starter
Another question - what type of line did you use to replace the 'yellow stripe' line to the gas tank? Just fuel hose from the auto parts store? Thanks.
#14
Burning Brakes
Regards,
Jimmy
Last edited by Tooch1; 12-05-2016 at 12:20 PM.
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Hi S,
The small diameter hose (white stripe in 71) runs directly from the canister nipple to the carburetor while the large hose runs from the canister to a 'T' at the PCV valve and then on to the carburetor.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an overall view to go with tooch's detail views.
The small diameter hose (white stripe in 71) runs directly from the canister nipple to the carburetor while the large hose runs from the canister to a 'T' at the PCV valve and then on to the carburetor.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an overall view to go with tooch's detail views.
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-05-2016 at 03:48 PM.
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Saddlehorn (12-05-2016)
#18
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#20
Race Director
From experience working on these old Corvettes.
DO NOT assume that your metal vapor return line that runs parallel with your brake line on the frame is in good condition. I have lost count with how many EVAP systems I have repaired where the steel line was rusted out and actually had a split in it. Or it was plugged up and the vapor line was useless.
I would get the hose off BOTH ends of this line and see if you can blow air through it. IF you can...so far so good. The the next test is to plug one end of the line and using hand vacuum pump...pull a vacuum on the line and make sure it holds vacuum. Because if it does NOT hold vacuum...you have a problem somewhere in the line that needs to be replaced. Or you will still have fuel vapor smell in the garage.
DUB