derfvette

My left turn signal in the dash does not light. All of the lights work correctly on the outside of the car. I assume the bulb in the dash is burned out. Can I get to that bulb going under the dash? Or, do I need to take the dash apart?


I have a 1979.













Thanks in advance for your help.

DUB

I honestly do not think that you can reach it from the backside of the dash cluster.

You can remove the lens...and then the Allen screws that hold the black plastic trim that surrounds the speedo and tach. Then...you can see the light bulb when you get that off and you might be lucky enough to slide some shrink wrap tubing or tape on the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the bulb straight out and put a new one in.

DO NOT twist the bulb...because IF YOU DO...and you unlock the socket from the printed circuit board on the backside of the cluster...it will fall down and then you are screwed and will have to take it out.

I believe you need a 194 bulb for this.

DUB

sunflower 1972

Yes, it is indeed a 194 bulb.

SwampeastMike

At least the cluster in a '79 is rather easy to remove:

1) Remove the panel (two screws) beneath the steering wheel with the headlamp override switch.

2) Remove the A/C duct above above the driver footwell.

3) Remove the two bolts that secure the steering column near the rear of the dash (virtually above the headlight override switch). This allows the column to move down slightly

4) Remove the fasteners (top and sides) from the cluster.

5) Reach behind the speedometer feeling for the cable. There's a tab around the bottom of the cable connection--press the tab and pull out the cable.

6) Pull out the cluster somewhat. Reach behind and disconnect the large electrical connector. Press the tab at the top and bottom edges of the connector to disengage.

7) Remove the cluster.

9) Replace ALL the bulbs. General illumination bulbs are #192; indicator bulbs are #194

If you've read about nighmares replacing bulbs in earlier c3s that used the finicky self-grounding sockets, fear not. Different sockets were used from at least '78+

DUB

that this dash cluster is MUCH easier than the earlier speedo/tach panels.

i would try what I wrote due ot it is easier...hopefully it works for you.

but I will add that the steering column is NOT likely to drop far down enough to allow ease of removing the cluster.

To get the steering column to drop down further you will need to loosen the two 1/2" nuts at the base of the steering column at the firewall from the inside....which will allow the column to come down a but more.

Also...I can not remember the year GM started it...but there are two screws that hold the cluster to the dash that you can see from the underside.. There are plastic tabs from the dash that get screwed to the underside of the cluster.

ALSO....if you are going to JUST REMOVE the lens and try what I wrote. Along the top of the lens where it is secured to the dash and cluster housing. You will see 6 screws. 3 of these are large Phillips head screws...and 3 are very small Phillips.

The 3 small Phillips head screws are used to hold the lens to the cluster housing and THESE 3 screws are what you take out. You DO NOT need to take out the 3 large Phillips head screws at the top....because they hold the cluster housing to the dash panel itself.

If you are planning on pulling the entire cluster....then LEAVE the 3 small Phillips head screws installed so the lens will stay attached to the cluster housing...and then take out the 3 LARGE Phillips head screws so the cluster will be able to come out....along with one on each side also.

DUB

SwampeastMike

I've removed mine (a '79) more times than I care to mention and just removing those two front bolts holding the steering column does allow you to remove the cluster reasonably easily and without damaging anything. It's also a bit easier if you remove the lens (all six screws at top) before taking out the cluster. Obviously you tilt the wheel all the way down as well.

DUB

I understand on how on your car the removal of the two bolts that hold it to the brake pedal assembly allow the column to drop enough. I am not doubting that at all.

But I can tell you that I have removed those same two bolts on many Corvettes and the column will not drop due to the column is tight against the firewall.

DUB

SwampeastMike

Interesting... Perhaps the firewall bolts in my car are loose and might be the cause of the tiny amount of slop I feel in the steering. I've never touched those bolts but I did follow the FSM instructions regarding removing the cluster.

I'll soon have the dash and cabin wiring harness removed again for some electrical upgrades which I hope to be the final work in there during my ownership/life. I will be CERTAIN to ensure those bolts through the firewall are in proper condition and properly torqued.

DUB

Hopefully yours have not been loose all this time. Knowing that the plate that is welded to the mast jacket tube that contacts the firewall on the inside....you would be amazed on how little you have to loosen those bolts to actually watch the column to begin to drop slightly.

I hope all of your wiring upgrades get done without any problems. I KNOW how much fun they can be and what it takes to actually add wiring correctly.

DUB

SwampeastMike

I'll be taking lots of photos to share. Quite a few friends over the years have asked me to help sort out electrical problems (it was always "someone else" who did the mods that lie at the root of the problems so I'm very particular about electrical modification in my own vehicles.

DUB

We are 'cut from the same cloth' in that respect. When I preform electrical service on the customers cars...I am SUPER PICKY.

And for the most part...the majority of electrical repairs I have to deal with is when some dumba$$ got in there and attempted to repair it or add something....and poorly I might add.

DUB