rusty76

I just signed up for this forum. I don't own a vette yet but I've been 'kinda' looking at them for some time. I'm retired/about to retire and am looking for my retirement project. I was raised by a mechanic and have always enjoyed working on vehicles. Until now I've had to be content with 3 motorcycles but now I want my retirement car.

Last year I looked at C4s but had to scratch them off the list because I can't fit. Recently I've been 'window' shopping (internet) C3s but I've never tried one on so didn't know if I can get into a C3 either.

Recently I took a different street during a walk around my neighborhood and noted a house that has 2 C3s sitting out front. Today I knocked on the door and engaged the owner in a discussion.

One is his driver the other is for sale. The one for sale is a '76, L-48, auto. It's a turd but it's complete, he said it runs, we'll see next week.

He told me to feel free to look at it which I did. I CAN fit in it so I'm past that hurdle.

Since I'm in Jersey it's a given it's rusty. It took me a few seconds to find the holey floorboards. Strike one. I asked him how the frame was and it was obvious he didn't know so I asked him if I could look it over, he was agreeable so during the week I'll load up my car with floor jack, jack stands and some tools and visit him for a good look underneath and a test drive assuming he can get it started.

Honestly rust is the thing I enjoy dealing with the least. Rebuilding every system on a car wouldn't bother me but trying to fix rust is a PITA. Even replacing the frame with a 'clean' one wouldn't bother me but . . .

HERE'S MY QUESTION:
How can I best examine the 'birdcage'. The birdcage has me worried a lot more than the frame. I'll find the problems with the frame but I need advice about how best to find the problems with the birdcage. I've been researching rust on C3s and know you can spot rust through the windshield if it's really bad. I've read about pulling the kick panels off and checking the bottom of the A pillar and pulling the sill plates. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Old Ben

Welcome to the forum.

FX VETTE

Welcome to the CF!

rusty76

Thanks guys.

I've searched this site previous to today and also today for information about rust issues with C3s. I've found a lot of good info but haven't seen anything about rust on the rear of the cage. I note I wasn't specific about that in my first post. I'm not sure if that means there usually aren't rust issues with the rear of the cage or if I just haven't found information about it yet.

I've also found good information here about jack points. As I mentioned in my first post I'm going to look this car over this week if the owner follows through and calls me. I want to be sure I know where I can and can't put a floor jack.

I also checked the trim plate and see that it's 692 64L and, if I understand the code correctly it was a buckskin exterior with a dark brown leather interior. If so, it's been repainted because it's currently green . . . where the paint hasn't peeled off. I also see F23 on the trim plate and if I recall correctly from my reading that means it was built on January 23rd? I'll have to try to find the explanation for the code again to be sure.

I don't have high hopes that this is a salvageable car but I want to follow through with this. I don't want a finished car, I want a fixer up but this one may be so far gone it's not even worth a couple thousand dollars. I'd love to be able to save an old c3 I'm just not sure this is it. It bothers me to see a old car sitting somewhere corroding away.

rkj427

Welcome to the forum!

After reading you 2 posts here, you may be better off posting these specific questions in the C3 General and C3 Tech areas for more exposure and opportunities for replies.........

Good luck with whatever direction you proceed in on this specific car.

rusty76

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. If it turns out that the frame & suspension aren't rusted out I'll likely do what you suggest

Vetteman Jack

The Intros section really isn't a good place for getting answers to your specific questions. I've moved this over to the C3 Tech/Performance section in the hopes that the members there can give you some advice.

BlackC3vette

Welcome to the forum.
Besides checking underneath for rusted or rotten metal, I would ask if you can remove the interior kick panels and look inside there with a flashlight.

rusty76

Thanks, I'm going to ask the owner if I can pull that panel, the rocker sill cover and maybe the trim on the A pillar.

Peterbuilt

Have you seen this post?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

Woody33

I have also loved cars and working on them since I can remember.
I have done the full project restore a couple of times, it is fun but very costly.


I also bought myself a Corvette recently, red black int, 427 4sp stingray. I looked at a lot of them before buying. I found that a really good solid car that still needed work was about the same price as a really good solid car that already had most all the work done.


If you do not have to have a numbers matching car - you can find a lot of good deals out there. I wanted a "driver" not a numbers matching investment show car.


Be sure to look around a lot and be sure to know what you are getting into.
get some catalogs Eckler's and review the cost of all the parts.

Lakeside49

Think twice. Consider buying a project car versus a 'rescue'. You can get over your head fast with rust. Also, the C4 has 6" more shoulder room than the C3 so you must be referring to height rather than girth when you reference "fit".
Just keep in mind that the C3 is a small sports car inside and since a lot of restoration takes place in the interior, make sure you are comfortable. A lot of us find them pretty challenging to maneuver around inside of them because of the cramped interior mechanics and electronics. Wouldn't trade mine for anything, but just sayin'

Good luck there -

Easy Mike

Correct.

Also correct.

Congrats on the 76.

Alan 71

Hi r76,
Welcome!
First Posts!!!
Thinking about a 68-82 for retirement!!!!!
Just because you're located in New Jersey doesn't mean all the old Corvettes that are available for you to consider are rusty and CERTAINLY doesn't mean you need to KNOWINGLY buy a rusty Corvette.
As a first time Corvette owner and restorer, a rusty car will likely break your spirit, your heart, and your wallet.
Do the research and take the time to find a car that doesn't have a rusted frame and/or birdcage.
Also, I'm not at all sure about buying a Corvette simply because it's in your neighborhood. Most people gravitate to a certain car because there are things they like about it's looks or performance and decide "that's what I'm going to put my time, effort, and money into".
A rusty birdcage can usually be determined by looking at the 3 sides of the windshield frame, the parts of the cowl visible by looking under the dash, looking at the hinge pillars by removing the kick panels, and looking at the lock pillars through the small access panel in the front of each rear wheel well.
So….learn how to spot and walk away from a rusty car, find a candidate that you REALLY like since it's to be asking a lot from you, and buy the very BEST most COMPLETE car you can afford.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

gbvette62

Welcome to the Forum. You've come to the right place for help, if you're going to become a Corvette owner.

The windshield frames are very susceptible to rust, but it's pretty hard to check them over. To check them fully, you need to remove the outer stainless trim, which isn't realistic when shopping for a car. Take a look through the windshield at the area between the outer stainless, and the interior molding. You should be able to see some of the a-pillar. Some surface rust in this area, isn't a big deal, but heavy rust or complete rust out is a major repair, usually requiring the replacement of the pillar posts, and maybe the whole frame.

Check the rear trailing arms for rust, and the frame below the door lock pillar, where the frame kick ups that go over the rear axle, attach. Check the number 4 body mounts on both the body and frame. These are the ones behind the back tires, in the general area of where the mufflers are.

Where in NJ are you located? NJ's a good place to be, if you own a Corvette. We have a number of quality Corvette shops in the state, along with many Corvette owners and a number of Corvette clubs.

Rescue Rogers

Pass on the rusty vette, it'll be a nightmare. Definitely read the 10 things to know that Peterbuilt linked to. It saved my butt.

Look at the for sale section here on the forum and check the local craigslist. There are a lot of vettes in the northeast. Not all of them are rusty. If you are horizontally challenged and used the tilt column on the 76 you test fitted, then you will want to make sure that option is in the car you choose. It wasnt an option in 68 (just telecoping), but there are aftermarket columns available. If you are just taller, I would guess they are all similar in fit for that. The 68 stock wheel is the biggest and hardest to get under, 69 is a little smaller ( by and inch) all easily remedied.

keep us updated. I'm sure the market will get better come april.

Big Block Dave

Rusty, if I were in your shoes, knowing what I know today about these cars, I would look at this car for educational purposes only.

There are TONS of 1974-1982 Corvettes out there that lived a somewhat pampered life, and wont break the bank.

The car you are looking at, Id wager has lived much of its life outside, and with that you are probably looking at trouble in all of the typical rust trouble spots for these cars.

Start to scour Craigslist and you'll see some real nice cars, that still need enough attention to keep you busy, but are solid and pretty and not a turd. They are available in our part of the country, trust me!

rusty76

Thanks to everyone who has replied, the information you're providing is excellent. I don't know yet how to pull in multiple quotes so I'll use Big Block Dave's post to respond to all.

I'm 6'6" but thin so in a C4 my head hits the B pillar/roll bar. If I thought I could chop the seat frame to get the head room I needed I'd seriously consider a C4. Can anyone tell me definitively that I can or can't get an additional 2 or 3 inches of headroom by modifying a C4 seat? I'd be nice to have the C4 pool of cars to choose from.

Yes a complete car is mandatory.

Lakeside 49, you're right, I probably won't buy the '76 I've been looking at. I'm afraid it's too far gone. I am going to use it to practice looking over a C3 corvette. I want to see how hard is is to see underneath. Can I see enough of the frame with the car on the ground or do I need to get it in the air?

Peterbuilt I read through the 10 rules, very good rules. I agree with them and am trying to follow them, thanks.

I found 4 of 5 cars on Craigslist that I sent replies to. All close enough that I can see them. C3s and C4s. A 75 with a manual is the pick of the litter from my perspective. If the steel is solid I'd buy it in a second. I'll also check out the for sale section here as suggested by Rescue Rogers.

gbvette62 thanks for the suggestion on the trailing arms. I was thinking that would be a good indicator and you just confirmed it for me.

Alan71 I hope you're right about finding a solid car (not rusty) here in Jersey. On the other hand I know if I wanted to plunk down $15 or 20 grand that would be a lot easier but you just gotta know the 'boss' wouldn't like that. Even though I could do it regardless it just ain't worth the angst it would cause so I need to find that compromise car that gives me a solid starting point for my 'fun' yet doesn't poke the bear. Know what I mean Vern?

Woody33, I understand what you were saying. My father was a mechanic starting in the Army during WWII. Some of my earliest, most vivid memories were operating the ratcheting transmission jack while Dad wrestled a huge late 50s/early 60s automatic transmission into place so he could install it. When I work on a car I feel that, it's bittersweet. For years now I've had to be content with working on my motorcycles but it's just not the same. I want my car. I'm thinking a corvette might provide the biggest bang for the shade tree buck. We'll see how it works out, see if I can find the right car, get it bought and stay married all at the same time. Wish me luck.

Kacyc3

Welcome to the board and the support group for addicts, I recommend you pass on this car for these reasons

1 You probably want to drive the and this one sounds like a rabbit hole to me requiring alot of work to get it road worthy that could easily snowball into a full restoration.

2 If you do want a full restoration do more research and find exactly what you want in a car not the first one you find. Maybe you prefer a chrome bumper car or a 80-82. Either way it can be exactly what you want.

Find one that has a nice body, body work gets expensive quick and fiber glass makes it worse if you need to repair anything. I hate rust also but am dreading the glasswork my car needs more than rust repair.

rusty76

I did a reply a little while ago to some of the folks who replied to this thread but I don't see it here. While the owner says this 76 is driveable I have my doubts and will NOT buy it unless it looks a lot better underneath than it does on top. The body is solid but the paint is GONE GONE GONE as in down to the primer over much of the horizontal surfaces of the body. I'd guess it had a really bad repaint to get from the original buckskin to the current green.

I've gotten replies from 2 of the e-mails I sent for Craigslist ads one for a 75 4 spd and one for an 87 4+3. I'll try to see each. I called about a 91 auto but a 91 is getting kinda late model for my taste but I'll go see it if it works out, not really into autos but this one is a second owner car, I was told it has been garaged all it's life and it has 75K miles so I figure 'what the heck'.