redbarchetta74

In chasing down a secondary "stumbling" problem on a new (to me) 71 LT-1, I just discovered that the original TI distributor was replaced sometime in the past. The banding on the distributor shows 1111464, and a quick google search suggests that this was OE for a 1970 454 390hp. I'm not sure why this was done, unless the previous owner had some gripe/issue with the original distributor.

My question - is this a problem performance-wise for this vehicle, or is it a non-issue? Additionally, the vacuum-advance appears to have "360 12" stamped on it, and I have no idea if this is the right unit for this particular distributor.

Just getting to know this vehicle, and I want to make sure this isn't a cause of performance problems.

redvetracr

original distributor should be a #2038, I have one with the correct #437 can if your interested

CanadaGrant

I believe the 360 12 was also used on the 69 427/390. They are not made anymore and a nice one in working condition is worth a few bucks.

redbarchetta74

Interesting - thanks for reaching out. Would that mean that I would have to revert to the original transitorized ignition as well? I'm not sure how/when/why the prior owner swapped out the distributor, but I want to make sure I understand what it would take to revert from my current setup to the 2038 (and does it even make sense to do it in the first place or just leave it as-is).

dmruschell

I would guess that the distributor, if properly set up, will work fine. Beyond advance curves, total advance limiting, and vacuum advance curve (most of which is changeable and part of properly setting up a distributor for its application), there's not much of a functional difference.

lars

Your current setup is just fine. Just check the overall timing curve and the amount of centrifugal advance you have, limit the vacuum advance to 10-12 degrees, and it will run as good as or better than any other distributor. There is no performance advantage to changing it - just tune what you have.

Lars

redbarchetta74

Thank you Lars. I think I'll do just that. I also found the original LT-1 amplifier hidden in the front-left of the car, so at least that is still there. Does my current setup use this, or is it being bypassed?

It was requested in another thread to post some pictures of the distributor that I have. Here they are:

MelWff

thats a points distributor it does not use the TI amplifier

Duntov

Yep standard distributor. Unfortunately the cost on them will continue to rise, so keep an eye out on them. Swap meets are good places to find them, but with the internet folks know more of what they have. Deals are still out there, but harder to find.

redbarchetta74

Would you concur with Lars' advice to leave well enough alone, or would you advise resurrecting the original ignition system assuming I have working amp (it's still there) and can locate a correct distributor and vacuum?

Duntov

I wouldn't go raiding the retirement account to get one, but if you find one for a good price it will add value to the car. Not sure if all the other numbers match (block, heads, intake, carb, trans, rear, etc), but if they do only other thing that stand out is the missing smog pump.

Keep it like it is and enjoy it. If the parts show up, get them then. You might try to find previous owners and they may have the parts.

We have an original owner, Bloomington Gold survivor, NCRS 5 star bow tie and well enjoyed 1970 LT-1.

redbarchetta74

Thanks. I have had a couple of offers from forum members to trade what I've got for the correct TI distributor, which seems to make good sense to me. However, I have no idea if the original amp is still working or not, so I would want to confirm that first before doing anything. Speaking of which - how the heck do you get that thing out and check it? It is tucked under the drivers-side wheel apron and I can't figure out how to get at it.

Beautiful LT-1, BTW!

Alan 71

Hi rb,
The pulse amplifier is held in place with 3 bolts and nuts.
The bolts are mounted from the amplifier side of the apron and are accessed by reaching up through the 'breathing' opening in the lower valance.
The nuts and lock washers are on the wheel side of the apron.
The mounting location and method are shown in the 71 AIM on UPC LS6, Sheet A7.
Regards,
Alan

MelWff

I would remove it and send it out for a rebuild to this company

http://www.tispecialty.com/services.htm

redvetracr

you can pull off the cover and change the circuit board to current technology, it`s not rocket science