Used 200-4R
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Used 200-4R
Hey everyone. I am thinking of taking the plunge and getting a used 200-4R from a modified 1983 Cutlass. I don't know much about it other than it is supposedly built for 500 hp and it has a Stage 2 kit (unknown brand) in it.
I have a nicely rebuilt TH350 in there now ('77) and it is shifting great, but I drive the highway (65-80 mph) a lot and want the overdrive. I am not looking for opinions on which tranny is better.
What should I look for when buying a used transmission? I has been pulled from the car. The fluid is still in it, so I will smell it and see if there is anything in the pan or filter, feel if everything is rotating freely, look for cracks/damage to casing. What else should I look for?
I will get the info off of the tag and see what I can find out about it (GN unit would be nice!).
Asking $600.
Thanks in advance. Cheers
Brad
I have a nicely rebuilt TH350 in there now ('77) and it is shifting great, but I drive the highway (65-80 mph) a lot and want the overdrive. I am not looking for opinions on which tranny is better.
What should I look for when buying a used transmission? I has been pulled from the car. The fluid is still in it, so I will smell it and see if there is anything in the pan or filter, feel if everything is rotating freely, look for cracks/damage to casing. What else should I look for?
I will get the info off of the tag and see what I can find out about it (GN unit would be nice!).
Asking $600.
Thanks in advance. Cheers
Brad
Last edited by Brad_B; 05-10-2016 at 03:26 PM.
#2
I guess you need more details about the "Stage 2" and how that relates to your type of driving. It may mean harsh shifting which may not be what you are looking for.
The following users liked this post:
Brad_B (05-10-2016)
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Brad_B (05-10-2016)
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
I talked to the guy a little today and he said it is a lock up unit, it was behind a Chevy 350, and it is not original to the car. I am going to go look at it tomorrow.
Any other items to look at would be appreciated.
Brad
Any other items to look at would be appreciated.
Brad
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Why did he take it out?
Brand of converter, stall speed?
Who did the work, any paperwork/receitps? Dont buy the ol I forget, it was some buddy bs.
was it internal work or just some shift kit?
If he is legit he will have the right answers. Personally I trust a used auto trans far as I can throw it.
Keep us posted
Brand of converter, stall speed?
Who did the work, any paperwork/receitps? Dont buy the ol I forget, it was some buddy bs.
was it internal work or just some shift kit?
If he is legit he will have the right answers. Personally I trust a used auto trans far as I can throw it.
Keep us posted
#6
Race Director
Along with smelling the fluid, it should feel slippery and not like water. Also have a look for any signs of previous leakage. Doesn't mean it's a bad transmission, but you'll have to factor in the cost of replacing the seals.
#10
Racer
Also keep in mind that a 77 probably has 3:08 gears, you may be lugging it on the highway. I 'm finishing up my 200-4R conversion by adding 3:70 gears, but I haven't had my first drive yet. With 3:70's I should be turning 2200 at 70, instead of 3k that my Turbo 350 was doing.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Also keep in mind that a 77 probably has 3:08 gears, you may be lugging it on the highway. I 'm finishing up my 200-4R conversion by adding 3:70 gears, but I haven't had my first drive yet. With 3:70's I should be turning 2200 at 70, instead of 3k that my Turbo 350 was doing.
It is a chicken and egg thing. I want new gears, but because I drive on the highway so much, I can't get those until I get the OD transmission. I can't afford right now a new tranny and the gears, so that is why I am looking used.
Maybe I will just leave the 3.08's and drive faster!
Thanks for the comment.
Brad
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05
If he lets you take it to a shop and get inspected could give you peace of mind. Dont know how many sellers would go for that but if hes confident then....most used trannies I wont pay more than core value you just never know, unless it was something special it was pulled because it had issues. Hope for the best.
For $600 it better be real good..
For $600 it better be real good..
Last edited by cv67; 05-11-2016 at 12:39 PM.
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Brad_B (05-11-2016)
#13
Although these transmissions been around for over 30 years, very few shops know how to do a performance rebuilt. As mentioned, buying a used 2004r for more than core value is a crap shoot.
Presently, have 3 cars in the family that have 2004rs, rebuilt by someone who is in to Buick GNs, brought one new and learned how to built a 2004r the right way. One thing these units all have in common is a Monte SS CZ valve body and Trans-Go shift kits.
If you are going to have a look at this "stage@" trick 200r4 is to remove the pan and check out the code for the valve body. If it is not a CZ or the Buick vb, which I think is BRK or BRF, start asking questions about valve body mods or better yet, just walk away from it, unless he sell the unit for core value of $200. Check out the GN web site for more 2004r info.
Lugging occurs when the t/c locks up. If you get to the point of actually installing one, use a toggle switch to activate the lock-up once your up to speed along with a conversion kit that uplocks the converter when your into the throttle. Using those two items, lugging is not a problem.
Presently, have 3 cars in the family that have 2004rs, rebuilt by someone who is in to Buick GNs, brought one new and learned how to built a 2004r the right way. One thing these units all have in common is a Monte SS CZ valve body and Trans-Go shift kits.
If you are going to have a look at this "stage@" trick 200r4 is to remove the pan and check out the code for the valve body. If it is not a CZ or the Buick vb, which I think is BRK or BRF, start asking questions about valve body mods or better yet, just walk away from it, unless he sell the unit for core value of $200. Check out the GN web site for more 2004r info.
Lugging occurs when the t/c locks up. If you get to the point of actually installing one, use a toggle switch to activate the lock-up once your up to speed along with a conversion kit that uplocks the converter when your into the throttle. Using those two items, lugging is not a problem.
The following users liked this post:
Brad_B (05-11-2016)
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Although these transmissions been around for over 30 years, very few shops know how to do a performance rebuilt. As mentioned, buying a used 2004r for more than core value is a crap shoot.
Presently, have 3 cars in the family that have 2004rs, rebuilt by someone who is in to Buick GNs, brought one new and learned how to built a 2004r the right way. One thing these units all have in common is a Monte SS CZ valve body and Trans-Go shift kits.
If you are going to have a look at this "stage@" trick 200r4 is to remove the pan and check out the code for the valve body. If it is not a CZ or the Buick vb, which I think is BRK or BRF, start asking questions about valve body mods or better yet, just walk away from it, unless he sell the unit for core value of $200. Check out the GN web site for more 2004r info.
Lugging occurs when the t/c locks up. If you get to the point of actually installing one, use a toggle switch to activate the lock-up once your up to speed along with a conversion kit that uplocks the converter when your into the throttle. Using those two items, lugging is not a problem.
Presently, have 3 cars in the family that have 2004rs, rebuilt by someone who is in to Buick GNs, brought one new and learned how to built a 2004r the right way. One thing these units all have in common is a Monte SS CZ valve body and Trans-Go shift kits.
If you are going to have a look at this "stage@" trick 200r4 is to remove the pan and check out the code for the valve body. If it is not a CZ or the Buick vb, which I think is BRK or BRF, start asking questions about valve body mods or better yet, just walk away from it, unless he sell the unit for core value of $200. Check out the GN web site for more 2004r info.
Lugging occurs when the t/c locks up. If you get to the point of actually installing one, use a toggle switch to activate the lock-up once your up to speed along with a conversion kit that uplocks the converter when your into the throttle. Using those two items, lugging is not a problem.
Edit: Where on the valve body would this info be?
Last edited by Brad_B; 05-11-2016 at 02:03 PM.
#15
Racer
I have to agree with some of the comments above. I was able to purchase one locally off Craigslist for $75 and had it rebuilt by a local shop. If you watch, you can probably find one at a lower price and then have it rebuilt by someone you trust they way you want. Good luck.
#17
Le Mans Master
A performance valve body will have pink paint marks on it unless they have been washed off, brake cleaner will take it off. May have br or cz printed on it also, but washes off easily also. No other simple way to tell what valve body it is. Some are now modding the regular valve bodies to perform well also.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I went for it. It is from a 1988 MonteCarlo with tag CFZ. From what I understand, this is the second most sought after unit. It is in good shape and the fluid is pink with no burnt smell. I think I am going to run it and see what happens. Valve body has pink paint and CF6 painted on it. I will flush it and put a new filter in it.
I am sure I will have lots of questions along the way.
Cheers
Brad
I am sure I will have lots of questions along the way.
Cheers
Brad
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter