jwbert

Working on replacing all of the u-joints, was able to press them all out ok except the ones in the half shaft flanges that bolt up to the T/A axels. They won't budge. I've put so much pressure on them that I think I've bent the flange as it is no longer flat where it bolts up. I've tried heating, PB Blaster soaked for several days, nothing. If I do get them out, is it possible to restore the distance between u-joint holes, thus reflattening the opposite side of the flange, or should I just give up and buy new flanges? :confused:

VegasJen

since you already have them out of the car i'd suggest you take them to a local driveline shop. they will be able to remove the joints and true the yokes again for you. probably won't even cost that much either. if you do this, you might as well have them install the new joints as well. things are easier with machinery :yesnod:

J75

What I found that works well,cut the center of the joint out with a torch and then just press the caps out.For the flanges you may be able to press them out.Set them up in a press on a flat metal plate and you can see how much you need to go.Lay a metal rod through the u joint holes and press straight down in the center.It does not take much effort.I`m not saying this is as good as new ones,only that it will work pretty well.Just know when you put the new joints in you may run into the same bending deal.You should always bolt a backing plate[make your self]or old spindle flange to the u joint flange before pressing in or out. :smash: :smash: :crazy:

GTR1999

You have to bolt the flanges to a plate to prevent them from bending. If it's too late then you may try bending them back but chances are you'll need new flanges. You need the plate for installing too. I made one out of 5/8" steel flat stock. I had a couple of flanges that were used that straightened on the plate but sprung back after removing them from the plate. I never used the torch but heard it works well,after you cut out the center the heat loosens the caps. I bought my flanges from Bairs BTW.
Gary


[Modified by gtr1999, 11:57 AM 1/12/2003]

Roadster71

Gary,
Now you told me! I bent both of mine and ended up replacing them. Anything I should know about doing the universals on the driveshaft?

Where have you been lately, haven't seen you at any club meetings for awhile.

Paul Borowski

Torching them out as J75 said is the only way to go-been doing it this way for years since I was shown how. :yesnod:

jwbert

As usual, lots of great suggestions and help. Thanks to all of you. Now, if I can just remember to ask the questions before I mess the part up, instead of after, I'll be money and agravation ahead. Thanks again. John :cheers:

GTR1999

Hi Bob,
I just emailed you. The drive shaft joints should be easier to do then the 1/2 shafts. Did you mark the position of the driveshaft when you removed it?
I used Spicers on the 69 from FleetPride in No Haven. For the 72 I used TRW w/ zerks. Since this is an SB auto car w/3.08s the TRW's should hold up fine. If you need help let me know.
Gary