Double offset T/A's compared to Single offset?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Double offset T/A's compared to Single offset?
Whats the difference and is it something that actually allows you to run an even wider wheel than the single? I thought the next obstruction for clearance after the stock T/A was the frame.
Anybody running these or wish they had? They are only 10 dolars more....
It does say you must shorten the spring one inch on both sides to run the double...anyone dealt with that?
Anybody running these or wish they had? They are only 10 dolars more....
It does say you must shorten the spring one inch on both sides to run the double...anyone dealt with that?
#2
Team Owner
Re: Double offset T/A's compared to Single offset? (Zack Wenning)
Whats the difference and is it something that actually allows you to run an even wider wheel than the single? I thought the next obstruction for clearance after the stock T/A was the frame.
Anybody running these or wish they had? They are only 10 dolars more....
It does say you must shorten the spring one inch on both sides to run the double...anyone dealt with that?
Anybody running these or wish they had? They are only 10 dolars more....
It does say you must shorten the spring one inch on both sides to run the double...anyone dealt with that?
:cheers:
Olivier
#3
Team Owner
Re: Double offset T/A's compared to Single offset? (Zack Wenning)
Please don't forget the clearance limited by the rear spring, the mufflers, the sway bar (cutting it in 1/2 then rewelding) to shorten, emergency brake the track between the front and rear wheels and the change in understeer which would result (unless making a drag racer) and 15 inch rim tire availability to fill them up (I like speed ratings and that stops at about a 255 for a 15), 16 inch at about a 255 also, and 17 at a 335/35-17 currently which just doesn't look right on a C3. :cheers:
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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Re: Double offset T/A's compared to Single offset? (Zack Wenning)
I have homemade trailing arms so I don't know if double is better but I do know the frame quickly becomes the limiting factor. The front part of the frame where the trailing arm enters the frame pocket is bad. At the back the frame moves away from the tire.
As for the spring, yes I had to deal with that. Remove the spring pack, take it apart,you only need the main leaf. Cut one end only off just past the original hole and redrill a 3/4 inch hole in this blank end. Use a sharp drill bit on a drill press, slow speed and lots of oil and it is easy to do. A spring is about 43 RC in hardness. Then measure exactly 1/2 way between the one hole and the new one drilled and mark this center for a new 3/8th inch hole for the center bolt. Reassemble the spring pack and reinstall. Once the weight of the car is on the spring the spring hanger bolts with straighten out enough.
With a proper setup I run 305's under the fender wheel.
The strut rods are off in this shot. The lower strut is actually holding the wheel tire assembly up so the top is tipped out a little.
As for the spring, yes I had to deal with that. Remove the spring pack, take it apart,you only need the main leaf. Cut one end only off just past the original hole and redrill a 3/4 inch hole in this blank end. Use a sharp drill bit on a drill press, slow speed and lots of oil and it is easy to do. A spring is about 43 RC in hardness. Then measure exactly 1/2 way between the one hole and the new one drilled and mark this center for a new 3/8th inch hole for the center bolt. Reassemble the spring pack and reinstall. Once the weight of the car is on the spring the spring hanger bolts with straighten out enough.
With a proper setup I run 305's under the fender wheel.
The strut rods are off in this shot. The lower strut is actually holding the wheel tire assembly up so the top is tipped out a little.