Jughead

My wife wants to connect a refrigerator in our basement. Problem is, that there's not an electrical outlet nearby. She wants me to get an extension cord and run that to the nearest outlet. I'm trying to tell her that's not a good idea and I should acutally try to run another outlet from the nearest.

Who's right here?

Secondly, can I simply run another oulet from the nearest one? Does a refrigerator require a separate dedicated-type line? The refrigerator plug is a simple 3 prong.

I re-did some of the wiring in the basement a few years ago and think that the line I want to tap into now has 1 PC, 2 printers, a scanner and 2-3 lights on it.

Opinions please.

Thanks
Len

VegasJen

well, it certainly wouldn't be to code. i've seen it done in some places. i wouldn't do it if i didn't have to but it might be the best option for you. how far do you have to go? i would try to keep the cord to a minimum, even cutting off excess cord and putting a new plug end on it. use the larger gauge cord, like the orange industrial cords most of us have in our garages for using those big, halogen lights. then if it makes you feel better, and it would me, i'd replace the recepticle your going to use with a GFIC recepticle to give you a little protection. then the only problem will be knowing when the recepticle pops before everything melts.
and to answer your question, of course your right. :thumbs:

joe73vette

The electrical code requires a seperate circuit for refrigerators. It also doesn't like lights and outlets on the same circuit. Both rules are to prevent problems when the outlet circuit trips, so you are stuck not in the dark with spoiling food. If you are capable of running a new outlet, do it. Better yet, run a new circuit back to the panel. They make half width CBs so you can have two circuits where there was once one. Joe

Teuffelhunde

I'd just run a new outlet from a nearby outlet. Just wire it in paralel to the old circuit and there won't be any problems, electrically. I myself wouldn't be the least bit concerned about building codes but other people might.

VegasJen

i'd agree with joe, that is certainly the correct and best way to do this. ultimately however, the questions you have to ask yourself are, "am i going to sell this refrigerator with the house?, how long will this be like this? and how much money and time do i want to spend?" if the answers are 'no', '>a few years' and 'not a lot' then do it the easy way but you'll run the risk of popping a circuit breaker or GFI and having the frige thaw. your choice.
are you lucky enough to have a circuit breaker panel in that basement? if so, that would be really easy and preferable.

LAvetteman

What ever cord or wire you use make sure it is at least 14 awg (gauge).

Running a fridge and the other small items you mentioned on one circuit as you mentioned shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you dont plug any heavy hitters in the same circuit. (heater, microwave, A/C, hair dryer, vacuum.

hauk

I am a retired electrician,The NEC (National Electrical Code)Requires a seperate circuit for the frig,However you could tap it into another circuit as long as you make sure of the amperage draw on that circuit.# 14 wire is good for 15 amps,If you are going to run an extention cord very far use #12 AWG,That will take care of the voltage drop(if you have a lot of voltage drop caused by too much load on a circuit or too long a cord you could burn the refrigerator compressor up).

Jughead

Thanks for the info guys. :thumbs: Just as I expected.....I was right(I think). I'm gonna run another outlet from the nearest one in an adjacent wall....right now there's only a rarely used extra laundry workshop lamp plugged into that one. Distance about 16 total feet away.

I'm gonna scrap my wife's extension cord idea. :yesnod:

Thanks again, the C3 forum always comes thru for me regardless the question. :yesnod: :thumbs: :hurray: :hurray:


[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 6:37 PM 3/12/2003]

stpman

if it is a regular sizes fridge the best option is to run a new outlet from the breaker box. the problem with connecting to an outlet nearby is unless you wired the outlet how do you know what is connected to that outlet, I've seen houses where the was half of the house wired to one 15 amp circuit! The thing that some overlook is it is not just a building/electrical code concern but an insurance issue as well. in some areas if wiring is done and not inspected you may have trouble with your house insurance should there be a problem.

Steve

Clink69

I was an electrician.. code calls for 20 AMP in kitchen seperate circuit. Basement fridge , probably 15 amps is OK. But again it depends on the Fridge, if its a big one the surge current will be an issue. Don't run extension cords... Mixing lights and plugs is a :nono: also do not use a GFI...

ndirishr1

I'm a safety manager. Run the outlet. Extension cords have started a lot of home fires.

CWUin82

15 amp circuit, 14awg is fine as long as it is a dedicated line for the fridge. If you are going to run a seperate circuit, may as well use a 12 gauge wireand make it a 20 amp circuit.
Extention cords are fine as long as your smoke detectors are in working order.

jackson

Len:
I like that approach ... especially if that circuit breaker & wiring is sufficient for fridge's startup surge. I've seen computers do funny things when on same circuit as fridge ... unless there's a ups or line conditioner at pc the big surges when comp starts aren't good for pc. Many years ago I was an electrician in southern cal ... commercial-industrial w/ a bit of residential on the side ... but I sure don't remember code. BTW ... how's your BBC project?
Jack

boredsoIstrokedit

Whatever way you go (I would wire in a new outlet if it is in an unfinished basement) make sure you use 12 guage wire, and make sure the circut has a GFI in it. Good luck. :cheers:

wayne_69_427

Tell your wife that when the house burns down the insurance will not pay because electrical was not done to code. :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

carl a

your right -ive seen cords burn-actually on fire -the breaker trips on overload or short -- if you got a cheapo 16 guage cord and your pullin 19 amps the cord will burn before the breaker trips- thats why theres fires when people plug in electric space heaters using cheapo extension cords- a normal kitchen usually gets 2- 20 amp appliance feeds-(for the counter top outlets) the fridge is on one of these-just open the 1900 box pull 2 wires-a hot and a neutral-(dont need a ground if you use mettalic conduit) and youll be fine-- you check the amount of current being drawn using a ampprobe-- depending on whats on thats circut--- if the lights ect are on one circut and the washer then youll blow then the compressor kicks on- then you gotta take the hot back to the panel and put her on a breaker-#12 wire for 20 amp feed--- hope this helps-carl-24s yrs local 134 chicago-- chicago has the toughest codes and there not one for a dedicated line in the kitchen for the fridge


[Modified by carl a, 5:51 PM 3/13/2003]

carl a

your right -ive seen cords burn-actually on fire -the breaker trips on overload or short -- if you got a cheapo 16 guage cord and your pullin 19 amps the cord will burn before the breaker trips- thats why theres fires when people plug in electric space heaters using cheapo extension cords- a normal kitchen usually gets 2- 20 amp appliance feeds-(for the counter top outlets) the fridge is on one of these-just open the 1900 box pull 2 wires-a hot and a neutral-(dont need a ground if you use mettalic conduit) and youll be fine-- you check the amount of current being drawn using a ampprobe-- depending on whats on thats circut--- if the lights ect are on one circut and the washer then youll blow then the compressor kicks on- then you gotta take the hot back to the panel and put her on a breaker-#12 wire for 20 amp feed--- hope this helps-carl-24s yrs local 134 chicago