GATOR454

I want to replace the rear bearings in my 74 BB. I have searched the archives and think that I can do it with proper guidance. However I can't find a step by step, Is there anyone here willing to talk me through it?

I'm sure it would be easier to send them out, but where is the fun in that.
Also my nephew has a 1980 that could probably use a fresh set, and in the end I would rather have the tools to do it again.

I already have the trailing arms off. The next step would be to get the proper tools.
Which ones will I need?
Press - minimum size?
Spindle knocker?
Bearing Puller?
Spindle setup tool?

I also see a rear spindle removal press. Is this needed if you have a regular press? If I get one ($199) do I still need a press (I assume so) so is it a convienience tool that is not really required?

Anything else?

I promise to take lots of pictures as I go.

David

zwede

Doing the rear bearings is easy. I think the myth of them being hard to do has been fed by the companies providing the service... but I digress.

The tools you need are few and standard:

1... Small hydraulic press. The $99 harbour freight model works fine.
2... Bearing clamp. I got mine at HF for $20.
3... Dial indicator and magnetic base.

You don't need a spindle knocker or setup tool.

Take the assembly apart. Save the shim(s). Install new bearings and re-assemble using the old shim. 9 times out of 10 you are done. The play will be well within spec. Reason is the bearings are manufactured to extremely close tolerances. The shim is not to correct for different bearings, but to correct for the housing.

Should you need to adjust the play, pop the bearing off (this will damage it). Hone out the inside to make it slip fit. Change the shim, use the new slip-fit bearing and assemble. Check play. Adjust shims until satisfied and then replace damaged slip-fit bearing with new bearing. Save the slip-fit for future projects.

The above applies to the outer bearing. The inner bearing is already close to a slip fit and can be (carefully) removed without damage.

Many people have made the outer bearing permanently slip-fit by either honing the bearing or the spindle and report no problems.

GTR1999

Well you made progess already by getting them out! secondly you looked throught the archives.
I wouldn't waste money on the spindle press or installer-(I already did!)
I use a 20 ton press I wouldn't get less tonnage,maybe more if you have some rear bearings like I had recently. I use the spindle knocker to protect the threads when working on the spindle. I use the setup tool to adjust the endplay. Get the rebuild kit with new spacers. You can get the bearings from a bearing house but stay with Timkens and stay away from the chinese or Mexican ones. Our local NAPA carries the imports for ex. I buy my bearing its from Bairs, Van Steel could also supply them.
You'll need a good dial indicator and base. I gained a lot of info from Tom454 right here on the forum. Per his recommendation I made up a plate to hold the bearing housing vertical to get an accurate reading when checking the end play. The force used to check the end play is subjected to the person applying it. You'll have to use your own judgement on it.
To dis-assemble I remove the parking brakes and hrdw. Support the srm in the press and install the spindle knocker. With the spindle supported I use the press to pop the innner bearing off and get things apart. It will take some force so be sure you support it carefully so you don't break anything you need to reuse-like the caliper bracket. Once hte spindle is out of the housing then you need to remove the outer bearings from it. This bearing is pressed on too and they make a special puller to remove it. It's worth it to get this tool too. International brake makes them for about $100. With it apart clean everything up. Check the spindle for cracks,worn splines,damaged threads,bad studs. For the cost of studs I replace them anyway. If you have access to a lathe chuck up the spindle and use an indicator on the flange. I like to take a very slight cut to face it off. I chuck it up on the bearing journals.
When you have the spindle ready and the housing ready you can reassemble. I paint everything with POR15 and cast blast to protect them before I assemble them. I start by using the original shim with the hub and using only spindle oil on the new bearings. assemble on the test tool, in the housing. Torque to 100 ft/lbs. Now it's very important to mount the indicator so there is NO movement otherwise your reading will be off. I use a mag base and still use a large C clamp to hold it. Now you have to apply force to the tool and check the movement. I found new bearings have about .011-.014" end play when starting. You want between .001-.002" some people set them for more or less. I have access to a surface grinder so I can grind off a few tenths at a time. You'll have to replace shims to get you close to the .001-.002" figure or measure the shim and have a machine shop grind it to size.
With the endplay figured I grease the bearings with Mobil1 "red" auto grease. Install the outer seal then press the outer bearing on the spindle. I use a piece of EMT conduit to press against the bearing inner race. Fill the housing about 80% with grease then install the spindle in the housing. add the shims and hub and press on the inner bearing,add the inner seal,yoke washer and new nut. Check the washer too-buy a new one when you order the bearings. I had a cracked one and ended up making one one night because they are thick washers that you won't find locally. Torque the spindle to 100 ft/lbs ,more to fit the cotter pin if nec. Spindle should rotate smoothly and have no binding. You can add new parking brake shoes and rotor and then check the rotro runout. Unless you machine the rotor and spindle together you'll have runout probably beyond the .003". You have to fix this too by shimming most likely. I think that covers most things off the top of my head, almost forgot install new backing plate when you have it apart same with the shoe pins. You 'll see what I'm talking about when you have them apart. I can send you a picture of the holding fixture. I don't know how to post pictures here. If you can't then maybe someone will for me? Read up on doing this job and check Monty's web site there are pictures there on a 80-82 setup. Check http://www.corvettefaq.com
good luck
Gary

chewy

How do you guys support the trailing arm without a fixture? I made one out of some 12in pipe and channel iron. All I can say if you can do it on a 99dollar press you are lucky. I have had a couple actually break the trailing arm even with a fixture and the spindle not move at all. The set up is easy as has been stated.


[Modified by chewy, 11:24 PM 10/20/2003]

zwede

I removed the hub from the TA before taking the bearings out. It's been about 5 years since I did mine, so some details muy be rusty, but the inner bearing came off easily. For the outer bearing I used a clam-shell and a hyd press. It needed some persuasion, but not too bad.

ROD NOCK

My .02 on how I did some things.
I planned to replace my spindles with new ones, so after remvl, I took an old spindle to a machine shop and had them create a 'slip fit' spindle for a set-up tool. I left the old whl studs in it so I could clamp it in a vise to torque it for setup readings. This worked out great!
To hold the bearing housing for setup readings, I made a fixture base out of some heavy 2 X 12 lumber, marked off and drilled for 4 threaded rods to hold housing. I clamp the base to a bench to steady it. This gives me a 'vertical' setup to take the readings.
I also wound up purchasing a press I found at a barn sale. It's rated 20 ton, and works great. I ended up installing locking casters on it for mobility and storage. Like alot of tools, I just wonder how I did without it for so long!!
So the $$$ I saved from not buying the catalog 'setup' tools bought some additional tools that will serve for years! :hurray:
Since I don't have access to a surface grinder for shim 'shaving', I purchased an assortment of shims and got as close as poss. I then used a large sharpening oil stone to work the shim down, rotating it while in motion.
You're right, this is the 'fun stuff'! The feeling of accomplishment and knowing it's done right is worth it to me!! :yesnod:
gtr, zwede, tom454 and others have taken the time to post some great info on this subject, and have helped me to 'streamline' my methods! Read their material and take their advise!!
Have Fun!! :chevy

Big Fish

Here's a link with some very good pictures. Hope it helps! http://www.corvetterepair.org/TA-Reb...-rebuild1.html