70vert

I want to replace at least the bottom hinge pin and bushing on the drivers side door. Can you confirm there are two bushings per pin? Where do the bushings go, in from the top and bottom, or in from the middle? Do I need to take the door off?

Also, what happened to the archives? Can they still be retreaved? How?

Thanks in advance.

Freepop

I'd change both while you were at it. I took the pins out and removed the door. Put in new bushings and put the door back on. I had someone help as the door is quite heavy and awkward. I also drilled the top pin and put cotter pins in it because the door pin was too long to go in from the top. I cut it shorter and then drilled. You'll need to spot face the pin prior to drilling as it is case hardened. This is kinda a bubba fix but taking off the hinges is not something I wanted to do and it functions well.

Good luck

GDaina

If I remember, there are 4 bushings...top and bottom per door hinge.

Freepop

Yes, 4 bushings and two pins per door. 2 bushings and one pin per hinge

73'Vette

This past weekend I replaced my passenger door pins and bushings. I did find it much easier to go ahead and remove the door. One tip I do recommend is to spray the hinge bolts in your door with some bright colored spray paint. That way when you go to line it all back up, you can easily tell where the bolts were mounted. Also, the top pin is a pain to get out. It will hit the fender before it comes all the way out. I got around this by using a dremel and grinding a flat spot on the top of the pin. It still barely cleared, but I did get it out. Do the same to the new pin before you try to get it back in place.

70vert

Do I NEED to take the door off to get the bushings in? That is, do I need to remove the old pin(s), separate the two hinge halfs(removing the door), remove the old bushings, install the new bushings, align the hinge halfs, install the pins.
OR
Remove the old pins, remove the old bushings, install the new bushing, install the new pin; without ever taking the door off or moving out of position.

Freepop

You have to take the door off. I don't see any way to get in there and work with it on. You only need one other person (my GF helped me). The helper holds th back end of the door while you drive the pins out. Then you grab the front and set it out of the way, on some carpet or something. Not a tough job at all.

Madmikeee

Hence why I am not going to pin and bushing my doors , I already will have the doors off I might as well replace the damn hinges completely instead of repairing them and having them sag again in 5 years. Plus it will allow me to get in there and clean up the 30 some ought years of crap that has accrued.

73'Vette

I'm curious, how does replacing the whole hinge assembly prevent it from sagging again in the future? The new hinges will still have the same setup of the bushings and pins and will still wear out. The only reason I can see replacing the whole hinge assembly is if your old bushings were completely wore out and were widening the hole that the pin goes through. Is there something I'm missing?

brooksman9

exactly how I did mine. Don't have to remove door

joe73vette

Even if the bushing wore through and the hinge hole was enlarged, the repair kits come with oversize bushings. Drill the hole bigger and you're good as new. Also, why try to balance the door with only one hinge pin installed and have to work in that tight space? Take them both out and make it easy on yourself. Joe

lucci_L82

What bushing does a C3. I mean to ask for a product number/ serial number, my local part source does not have the 1980 corvette on file so I'm stuck right now

DUB

That is odd. Possibly call DORMAN and talk to their tech dept...because these parts are sold at many auto parts stores in the HELP section....or buy them from a the Corvette vendors here on the forum.

For whatever it is worth....I remove the door from the hinges to service pins/ bushings.

DUB

Iceaxe

I used this video which really helped me. It took me a couple hours per side and I'd never done it before. Good luck.

Darlas81

I've removed my doors, and mostly anything that moves on the 81, and it's been on Jackstands over a year. As time and money permit, I'm slowly getting it back together. One thing I've noticed after removing the doors, and putting in new hinge pins and sleeves is how hard it is to move the hinge now. Of course I don't have the leverage factor of having the door back on yet, but has anyone else experienced this, and is it normal? I still have to paint the car, so I didn't want to put any grease on anything yet.
Any answers?
Appreciate the advice.

70Yellowbird

What does 'spot face' mean, and how is it done?

Thanks.

0Willcox Corvette

The easiest method and what I will now deem as the correct (at least to me) way to install the pins:

Pull off the door panel; remove the hinge bolt access covers. Spray paint the bolt heads with a good quick drying spray paint.. (Red, Green, White, the color won't matter).

When the paint is dry, remove the door from the hinges. Once this is done the hinge pin can be driven out and the new bushings and the pin re-installed. Do this on the upper and lower. I have a door jack.. which makes this job pretty easy. You can purchase one now pretty cheap and if you are going to be working on your car it's a not needed very often tool, but one that is greatly appreciated when you have one.



Now why paint the hinge bolts? So you have a witness mark for re-installing the bolts in the same place. If the door has not been messed with by a PO, then you should be in the correct place. Tighten the screws and then re-install the door panel.

You can attempt to install the upper pin by taking material off the head of the top pin and doing so will allow clearance of the door outer fiberglass panel. But to insert the bushings correctly, you must move the door outward off the hinge on the top (or the bottom) depending on which hinge you are on. When you use this method the door will get very close to hitting the back edge of the fender! In fact, it will get so close that it can and in most cases chip the paint from one or the other. One other issue is that cutting material off the top pin will also devalue the integrity of the pin.

I'm sure there are people that will try it the Grind Way and get it done without issue. But it's not worth the risk because the time to install the pins is 1 hour by using the remove the door method and I don't think a little extra time will hurt anyone's feelings over risking a chip.

You will need a second person to help you if you don't have a door jack, and when you re-install the door painters tape would be highly advised for either method. You can use a Cherry picker, or a hoist to hold up the door while removing it but even this is sketchy but do to it this way you'd want to put a towel on the door and runt two straps around it meeting in the middle. This makes the door stable while you are removing it.

Another note: It is also advised to check the condition of the rear striker bolt. When a door is not striking it properly there is a good chance the rubber is worn from inside of it and/or you will find wear damage.

You may also find your weatherstrip is not fitting good after new pins and bushings are installed. If they don't then you will need to re-fit the weatherstrips at this time.

The hinge will come apart once you remove the pin. When you remove the door the D cut is not needed to install the pin.

And lastly, while I love the video posted above.. Never Ever... grease the pins or bushings. This will cause premature failure.

It's a smart idea to have the right tools for removing the door from your car.. A safe method is to purchase a door jack.. IMHO... I've never scratched a door using this tool and have replaced more pins than you can count.

Willcox