will these heads work for a 383in stroker?
#1
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will these heads work for a 383in stroker?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I'm looking for 400+hp or what kind of heads should I go for?
alfonso
I'm looking for 400+hp or what kind of heads should I go for?
alfonso
#2
Safety Car
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Location: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
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Your builder already knows, ask him
How's it coming anyways
P.S. I only say this because your builder already knows
how to do this. Asking how to build a 383 on a forum, and
your asking to be pulled into a millon combo's of opinion's
How's it coming anyways
P.S. I only say this because your builder already knows
how to do this. Asking how to build a 383 on a forum, and
your asking to be pulled into a millon combo's of opinion's
Last edited by MEGLADON; 09-14-2004 at 04:29 PM.
#3
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Originally Posted by MEGLADON
Your builder already knows, ask him
How's it coming anyways
P.S. I only say this because your builder already knows
how to do this. Asking how to build a 383 on a forum, and
your asking to be pulled into a millon combo's of opinion's
How's it coming anyways
P.S. I only say this because your builder already knows
how to do this. Asking how to build a 383 on a forum, and
your asking to be pulled into a millon combo's of opinion's
#5
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Those look to be bare heads, you will need to spend another $200-400 for valves, retainers, locks, cups, shims and springs. If you do not have the tools you will need to spend some money on them or have some else assemble them for you.
#7
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Never heard of the brand and it doesn't come up on a google search so I do not know anything about them. Check with your builder he might know something about them, might have some used heads or know of a set for sale.
#8
Drifting
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The heads are a good deal for less that $800 a pair bare.
http://www.shaverracingheads.com/netspecial.htm
http://www.shaverracingheads.com/netspecial.htm
#10
Be careful on those E-bay heads. They are Pro-topline heads and Pro-Topline is out of business. I would only buy a set for someone you know as a reputable dealer. If you have problem with them, there is no one to stand behind them. A lot of the Pro-topline heads being sold right now are warrenty items that can not be sent back to the factory because of the bancruptcy.
If they are a defect free set of heads they are a good deal.
If they are a defect free set of heads they are a good deal.
#11
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You need to make sure your motor has a good short block so it doesn’t break. There are many choices out there even the Mr. Good Wrench 350 at about $1,300.
The most important speed parts are the heads. If at all possible buy Air Flow Research (AFR) heads. They are the best SBC heads out there. They are $1250 complete. I have seen them on E-bay for $600. If you don’t believe it go to Chevy High Performance’s magazine web site and check the flow bench numbers. If you don’t trust flow benches then you need to read a lot of hot rod and performance magazines. Many people run them with outstanding results. The intake port volume is small for the amount of flow. This means good torque on the bottom and good HP on the top. Check out John Ligenfilter’s book “Building the Samll Block Chevy”. Many people buy the 195 cc head for the street but the port inlet dimensions are sized for the single plane Edlebrock Victor Jr manifold. Probably not what you want to run on the street. For the street you need the Edlebrock Performer RPM manifold. The 190cc head port dimensions are closer to this manifold. The 190 cc heads have the exhaust crossover which you probably don’t want unless you live in Alaska where warming the engine is difficult. Block the cross over. I drilled tapped and installed pipe plugs. Also these heads are CARB certified. If you have additional questions, E-mail me. I know about SBC heads
The most important speed parts are the heads. If at all possible buy Air Flow Research (AFR) heads. They are the best SBC heads out there. They are $1250 complete. I have seen them on E-bay for $600. If you don’t believe it go to Chevy High Performance’s magazine web site and check the flow bench numbers. If you don’t trust flow benches then you need to read a lot of hot rod and performance magazines. Many people run them with outstanding results. The intake port volume is small for the amount of flow. This means good torque on the bottom and good HP on the top. Check out John Ligenfilter’s book “Building the Samll Block Chevy”. Many people buy the 195 cc head for the street but the port inlet dimensions are sized for the single plane Edlebrock Victor Jr manifold. Probably not what you want to run on the street. For the street you need the Edlebrock Performer RPM manifold. The 190cc head port dimensions are closer to this manifold. The 190 cc heads have the exhaust crossover which you probably don’t want unless you live in Alaska where warming the engine is difficult. Block the cross over. I drilled tapped and installed pipe plugs. Also these heads are CARB certified. If you have additional questions, E-mail me. I know about SBC heads
#12
Intermediate
I'll second the AFR's!!!! I put 195's on my 383 (did some port work) and a performer RPM intake. Hood clearance is a problem...got a drop base from a 69 chevelle 396, fixed the problem (have a BB hood). Car runs 13.2 with no traction with 3.08 rear gears, th400 tranny. Torque monster. Fred