Anyone Tried Rust Bullet?
09-15-2004, 12:10 PM
#1
Safety Car
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Anyone Tried Rust Bullet?
I know that POR-15 is the standard around here for rust treatment but I've been looking for a product that requires less prep work so that I can make some quick progress. I bought some Rust Encapsulator and tried it on a few parts, and I think it will be useful in some areas. There are a few things I don't like about it:
1. Dries too quickly - the brush loads up quickly and the product skins in the can after a few minutes.
2. Looks like 2 coats will be needed since it's hard to spread evenly due to No. 1.
3. Leaves a thin coating that can be painted over, but doesn't do much to fill pits in the metal - and my parts have plenty of pits to fill.
4. Doesn't seem to cover unrusted metal that well (I did manage to find an unrusted spot).
Rust Bullet looks like a good compromise between Rust Encapsulator and POR-15. It doesn't require a pre-coat like POR-15 does and it is supposed to produce a pretty smooth coating. It can also be painted over with just about anything like Rust Encapsulator. The longer drying time probably makes it easier to work with also. It claims to have no UV sensitivity. The price is in the ballpark of the other two.
Let's hear some opinions on Rust Bullet. I'll be the guinea pig if no one else has used it.
Rick B.
1. Dries too quickly - the brush loads up quickly and the product skins in the can after a few minutes.
2. Looks like 2 coats will be needed since it's hard to spread evenly due to No. 1.
3. Leaves a thin coating that can be painted over, but doesn't do much to fill pits in the metal - and my parts have plenty of pits to fill.
4. Doesn't seem to cover unrusted metal that well (I did manage to find an unrusted spot).
Rust Bullet looks like a good compromise between Rust Encapsulator and POR-15. It doesn't require a pre-coat like POR-15 does and it is supposed to produce a pretty smooth coating. It can also be painted over with just about anything like Rust Encapsulator. The longer drying time probably makes it easier to work with also. It claims to have no UV sensitivity. The price is in the ballpark of the other two.
Let's hear some opinions on Rust Bullet. I'll be the guinea pig if no one else has used it.
Rick B.
09-15-2004, 12:15 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
pm MikeC
He bought it to use on his frame.
There is also ZeroRust which is supposed to be as good or better than POR15 and easier to use
Steve
He bought it to use on his frame.
There is also ZeroRust which is supposed to be as good or better than POR15 and easier to use
Steve
Last edited by stpman; 09-15-2004 at 12:19 PM.
09-15-2004, 12:19 PM
#4
Racer
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Blair winch-
I was thinking of using this myself in a month. I will have my vette up on a lift for a week. At that time I want to paint my frame rails as much as possilbe without removing the body (3 sides with rust preventative is better than none...). I was thinking of POR-15 but then found out about the prep work involved. I have never used it before - went to Home Depot and read the can.
Found the Rust Bullet stuff. Was thinking of trying it. My frame rails are rusty- not too bad, but bad enough. I am planning on hitting them with a wire wheel and just painting a nice thick coating of something black and rust preventative. Rust Bullet is sounding like the way to go.
When I remove the rear end I will be doing the half shafts, trailing arms and diff housing as well.
I will post my results, although I am not doing this until mid October.
Wish me luck!
Cheers!
~Kevin
I was thinking of using this myself in a month. I will have my vette up on a lift for a week. At that time I want to paint my frame rails as much as possilbe without removing the body (3 sides with rust preventative is better than none...). I was thinking of POR-15 but then found out about the prep work involved. I have never used it before - went to Home Depot and read the can.
Found the Rust Bullet stuff. Was thinking of trying it. My frame rails are rusty- not too bad, but bad enough. I am planning on hitting them with a wire wheel and just painting a nice thick coating of something black and rust preventative. Rust Bullet is sounding like the way to go.
When I remove the rear end I will be doing the half shafts, trailing arms and diff housing as well.
I will post my results, although I am not doing this until mid October.
Wish me luck!
Cheers!
~Kevin
09-16-2004, 10:42 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
I'm a bit confused by youz guyz postz.
POR-15 can be applied directly to wire-brushed rust areas.
You CAN prep it with a Phosphoric acid treatment - but not required
unless applying over CLEAN steel. Clean steel REQUIRES an
acid treatment first. Forget about applying over paint - that's
just a waste of time.
I have switched to Naval Jelly for Phosphoric acid treatment.
The thick gel consistency keeps the part from drying out
before it is fully etched.
Hey Rick - used to live close to you - but that was before my 'vette days.
POR-15 can be applied directly to wire-brushed rust areas.
You CAN prep it with a Phosphoric acid treatment - but not required
unless applying over CLEAN steel. Clean steel REQUIRES an
acid treatment first. Forget about applying over paint - that's
just a waste of time.
I have switched to Naval Jelly for Phosphoric acid treatment.
The thick gel consistency keeps the part from drying out
before it is fully etched.
Hey Rick - used to live close to you - but that was before my 'vette days.
09-16-2004, 10:51 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Yes. I've used both. I just did my water pump because it only comes in silver. Came out fine and it's ez. It did my master cylinder and fan shroud with POR15 (semi-black). More work but also came out fine. If I want a black finish I use POR15, if I want silver I use the Bullet.
09-16-2004, 11:24 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Is Rust Bullet impervious to solvents (brake fluid) like POR15 ?
You can get it at Home Depot ?
OK - I read the website below. Without having tried it, here are my thoughts:
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
One BIG disadvantage is cleanup. Acetone, Tolulene, MEK .... these are
required for cleanup. POR cleans up with lacquer thinner. Thinner is bad
enough - I don't wanna use the solvents above. So, plan on disposable
applicators/etc.
One thing that bothers me is that they claim POR15 is a 4 step process.
They are counting the marine clean degreaser as 1. Then later, state
that Bullet cannot be applied to an oily surface. Additionally - for rusty
metal, you don't need metal ready (phosphoric acid with zinc) before
POR15. Lastly, you don't need the POR topcoats to complete the job.
So, it sounds like good product that has a couple advantages.
However, I call BS on their "comparison" to POR15.
It's like a political election: I don't want to hear the trash talk about
the other candidate .... just tell me what you do well.
That said, I was going to recommend POR to a co-worker to clean up
some rust. I think he would benefit from the 2 advantages above.
I will show him the bullet.
You can get it at Home Depot ?
OK - I read the website below. Without having tried it, here are my thoughts:
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
One BIG disadvantage is cleanup. Acetone, Tolulene, MEK .... these are
required for cleanup. POR cleans up with lacquer thinner. Thinner is bad
enough - I don't wanna use the solvents above. So, plan on disposable
applicators/etc.
One thing that bothers me is that they claim POR15 is a 4 step process.
They are counting the marine clean degreaser as 1. Then later, state
that Bullet cannot be applied to an oily surface. Additionally - for rusty
metal, you don't need metal ready (phosphoric acid with zinc) before
POR15. Lastly, you don't need the POR topcoats to complete the job.
So, it sounds like good product that has a couple advantages.
However, I call BS on their "comparison" to POR15.
It's like a political election: I don't want to hear the trash talk about
the other candidate .... just tell me what you do well.
That said, I was going to recommend POR to a co-worker to clean up
some rust. I think he would benefit from the 2 advantages above.
I will show him the bullet.
Last edited by NHvette; 09-16-2004 at 02:30 PM.
09-16-2004, 12:06 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
09-16-2004, 04:21 PM
#9
Safety Car
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Originally Posted by Evil_1979
Blair winch-
I was thinking of using this myself in a month. I will have my vette up on a lift for a week. At that time I want to paint my frame rails as much as possilbe without removing the body (3 sides with rust preventative is better than none...). I was thinking of POR-15 but then found out about the prep work involved. I have never used it before - went to Home Depot and read the can.
Found the Rust Bullet stuff. Was thinking of trying it. My frame rails are rusty- not too bad, but bad enough. I am planning on hitting them with a wire wheel and just painting a nice thick coating of something black and rust preventative. Rust Bullet is sounding like the way to go.
When I remove the rear end I will be doing the half shafts, trailing arms and diff housing as well.
I will post my results, although I am not doing this until mid October.
Wish me luck!
Cheers!
~Kevin
I was thinking of using this myself in a month. I will have my vette up on a lift for a week. At that time I want to paint my frame rails as much as possilbe without removing the body (3 sides with rust preventative is better than none...). I was thinking of POR-15 but then found out about the prep work involved. I have never used it before - went to Home Depot and read the can.
Found the Rust Bullet stuff. Was thinking of trying it. My frame rails are rusty- not too bad, but bad enough. I am planning on hitting them with a wire wheel and just painting a nice thick coating of something black and rust preventative. Rust Bullet is sounding like the way to go.
When I remove the rear end I will be doing the half shafts, trailing arms and diff housing as well.
I will post my results, although I am not doing this until mid October.
Wish me luck!
Cheers!
~Kevin
Be careful or your story will turn into a "4 years and $15K later" tale
Let us know how the Rust Bullet treatment turns out. I'll probably be working on some of the larger parts around that time.
Rick B.
09-16-2004, 04:55 PM
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by NHvette
I'm a bit confused by youz guyz postz.
POR-15 can be applied directly to wire-brushed rust areas.
You CAN prep it with a Phosphoric acid treatment - but not required
unless applying over CLEAN steel. Clean steel REQUIRES an
acid treatment first.
POR-15 can be applied directly to wire-brushed rust areas.
You CAN prep it with a Phosphoric acid treatment - but not required
unless applying over CLEAN steel. Clean steel REQUIRES an
acid treatment first.
I have POR-15'd a lot of my surface rusted parts with no more prep than just taking my grinder with a wire brush and knocking off the surface grime and rust. My first application that I applied over 4 years ago still looks great. So with POR-15 the prep work is that as bad as it seems. Just don't get that stuff on your skin.
09-16-2004, 05:20 PM
#11
Racer
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Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
Kevin,
Be careful or your story will turn into a "4 years and $15K later" tale
Let us know how the Rust Bullet treatment turns out. I'll probably be working on some of the larger parts around that time.
Rick B.
Be careful or your story will turn into a "4 years and $15K later" tale
Let us know how the Rust Bullet treatment turns out. I'll probably be working on some of the larger parts around that time.
Rick B.
That should only take two days to do all that. I will have the lift for a week so I was thinking of painting as much of the frame as I can get at!
Somehow I don't think my dad will let me tie up his lift for 4 years! LOL. Besides, I'm already planning 4+ years and about that much money (or more) to go into the '51 Ford F1 street rod that gets started next winter!
09-16-2004, 05:41 PM
#12
Safety Car
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Is Rust Bullet impervious to solvents (brake fluid) like POR15 ?
You can get it at Home Depot ?
You can get it at Home Depot ?
Originally Posted by NHvette
OK - I read the website below. Without having tried it, here are my thoughts:
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
Originally Posted by NHvette
One BIG disadvantage is cleanup. Acetone, Tolulene, MEK .... these are
required for cleanup. POR cleans up with lacquer thinner. Thinner is bad
enough - I don't wanna use the solvents above. So, plan on disposable
applicators/etc.
required for cleanup. POR cleans up with lacquer thinner. Thinner is bad
enough - I don't wanna use the solvents above. So, plan on disposable
applicators/etc.
Originally Posted by NHvette
One thing that bothers me is that they claim POR15 is a 4 step process.
They are counting the marine clean degreaser as 1. Then later, state
that Bullet cannot be applied to an oily surface. Additionally - for rusty
metal, you don't need metal ready (phosphoric acid with zinc) before
POR15. Lastly, you don't need the POR topcoats to complete the job.
So, it sounds like good product that has a couple advantages.
However, I call BS on their "comparison" to POR15.
They are counting the marine clean degreaser as 1. Then later, state
that Bullet cannot be applied to an oily surface. Additionally - for rusty
metal, you don't need metal ready (phosphoric acid with zinc) before
POR15. Lastly, you don't need the POR topcoats to complete the job.
So, it sounds like good product that has a couple advantages.
However, I call BS on their "comparison" to POR15.
I think the comparison chart is an effort to disguise the fact that their product is $ .04 more expensive per quart than POR-15.
It's like a political election: I don't want to hear the trash talk about
the other candidate .... just tell me what you do well.
Originally Posted by NHvette
That said, I was going to recommend POR to a co-worker to clean up
some rust. I think he would benefit from the 2 advantages above.
I will show him the bullet.
some rust. I think he would benefit from the 2 advantages above.
I will show him the bullet.
I've visited your website many times as I've been tearing my vette apart. I show my son the pictures and warn him that if our car looks that bad (the 'before' pics of course) we're selling it!
It's good to have a number of forum members in the general area. One day we'll all have to get together for some
09-16-2004, 09:24 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
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I painted my frame with rust bullet and then topcoated with a satin black. the top coat went on and has stayed on to date( car is still not on the road). I have painted all my suspension with it too some I left without a top coat.
What I have found: It is significantly harder than normal paint, it is significantly harder to remove( scratch, sand, grind) and it is a bitch to remove from your skin.
I cannot compare it to POR 15 as I have not used it. The only experience I have with POR15 is talking to my old boss when he was using pretty much all of their products on his Olds he was restoring. He found that the black gets chaulky fairly quick and the silver was a little too glossy but he did love the clear.
If I were to do it again I would still use Rust Bullet as I can basecoat everything with it and topcoat what I want a different colour and have no worry of ultrravoilet damgage to the non-topcoated surfaces.
What I have found: It is significantly harder than normal paint, it is significantly harder to remove( scratch, sand, grind) and it is a bitch to remove from your skin.
I cannot compare it to POR 15 as I have not used it. The only experience I have with POR15 is talking to my old boss when he was using pretty much all of their products on his Olds he was restoring. He found that the black gets chaulky fairly quick and the silver was a little too glossy but he did love the clear.
If I were to do it again I would still use Rust Bullet as I can basecoat everything with it and topcoat what I want a different colour and have no worry of ultrravoilet damgage to the non-topcoated surfaces.
09-16-2004, 11:07 PM
#15
Pro
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I have used por 15 and rust bullet and like both
The rust bullet is easy to use becaues its one step and it looks good .
Hers a tip Cover parts you don't wanted painted with tin foil, lots easier than tape...
The rust bullet is easy to use becaues its one step and it looks good .
Hers a tip Cover parts you don't wanted painted with tin foil, lots easier than tape...
09-16-2004, 11:35 PM
#16
Racer
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Not to hijack, but how do you decide what to paint underneath? I had a lot of my rear end off and thought about painting but I had no idea where I'd stop so I just said screw it and put everything back together. I kinda thought that you had to take everything apart and paint items individually. Lotus, it looks like you just painted everything in as it was on the car. Is that how it's normally done? What do you do when you have to wrench a bolt and it doesn't line up with the old paint marks? Just curious as I have never seen a frame painting write-up to go by.
09-17-2004, 08:19 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
I'm painting /coating the parts separately before I put everything back together but my chassis is a pile of parts right now 
Steve
Steve
09-17-2004, 08:51 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Is Rust Bullet impervious to solvents (brake fluid) like POR15 ?
You can get it at Home Depot ?
OK - I read the website below. Without having tried it, here are my thoughts:
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
You can get it at Home Depot ?
OK - I read the website below. Without having tried it, here are my thoughts:
It sounds VERY much like POR15 - except for a few claims.
First, it can be topcoated easily - with any paint. This is good.
Second, they claim that it penetrates through old paint. (not too sure on this)
Dave, I know you've dealt with a lot of rust along the way. What would you use to shut down the rust inside a radiator support The exterior is easy, spread POR-15. But the inside? I'm considering drilling some large holes in the bottom and pouring something in, but I'm not sure what would be best. My support has beginning rust perforation, but is usable if I can stop any further corrosion. Any suggestions?
09-17-2004, 10:58 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
AH - the hijack is pertinent.
I wrestled with this also. I have a few posts deep in the archives (lost now).
I replaced the entire lower section of a radiator support.
When done, I considered trying to slosh around some POR15
to protect the inside. I decided against it. Instead, I used
perforated steel to replace the lower section. This way, not
only does any water drain out, but the airflow gets in there to
keep it dry. ... not that my vette will see much water - except
for the occasional washing. Same deal with the inside of my
frame rails: I don't ever intend to get water up in them again.
Another reason is that the coatings aren't that cheap. You'd
probably need at least a pint to get that done - then throw
away the stuff that drains out.
What I have considered for inside these parts is what is usually
applied: rust proofing wax/oil. If you can find a place that does
frame spraying, they will probably do your support for cheap $.
My parts store had a special one month: buy 2 gallons of wax
and get the application gun/set for $100. I wish I bought it at
the time. Oh well.
I wrestled with this also. I have a few posts deep in the archives (lost now).
I replaced the entire lower section of a radiator support.
When done, I considered trying to slosh around some POR15
to protect the inside. I decided against it. Instead, I used
perforated steel to replace the lower section. This way, not
only does any water drain out, but the airflow gets in there to
keep it dry. ... not that my vette will see much water - except
for the occasional washing. Same deal with the inside of my
frame rails: I don't ever intend to get water up in them again.
Another reason is that the coatings aren't that cheap. You'd
probably need at least a pint to get that done - then throw
away the stuff that drains out.
What I have considered for inside these parts is what is usually
applied: rust proofing wax/oil. If you can find a place that does
frame spraying, they will probably do your support for cheap $.
My parts store had a special one month: buy 2 gallons of wax
and get the application gun/set for $100. I wish I bought it at
the time. Oh well.
09-17-2004, 11:07 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
Dave,
I've visited your website many times as I've been tearing my vette apart. I show my son the pictures and warn him that if our car looks that bad (the 'before' pics of course) we're selling it!
It's good to have a number of forum members in the general area. One day we'll all have to get together for some
I've visited your website many times as I've been tearing my vette apart. I show my son the pictures and warn him that if our car looks that bad (the 'before' pics of course) we're selling it!
It's good to have a number of forum members in the general area. One day we'll all have to get together for some
several members brought their C3s and C2. I wanted to do another
this year - but I have too much going on around the house and not
enough getting done to the vette. Next year will be a definite.
Everyone's invited - 'vettes only in the driveway.