Thermostat Housing Leaking......
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thermostat Housing Leaking......
This weekend, I have had to replace the gasket on the thermostat housing 3 times!! The first time, I used the stock "paper" gasket. It leaked! The second time, I used the paper gasket with gasket sealant made especially for water pumps & thermostat housing....it leaked AGAIN! I even torqued the bolts to specs (20 lbs) and then some...30-40lbs. Still leaks... This last time I used Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus (a blue plastic gasket Part #35562T) with a thin coat of gasket sealent. No leak! BUT that was after idling 15-20 minutes with the heater on high...I did not get a chance to take the Vette for a spin to really test it out. It did get up to temp and all that... Now the question...as I was cleaning up afterwards and being HAPPY that finally the leak stopped, I noticed on the package of the Fel-Pro gasket it stated...."Important...Do Not use this gasket with any gasket sealent" I thought "OH Sh*t is it going to leak when I get up on the interstate????" Any help out there??? I hope I won't have to do this thing a fourth time!!!!!
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Manalapan FL
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I'd run a straightedge along the mating surfaces of the manifold & housing.
I switched to an o-ring type t-stat housing and haven't had any problems.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
I switched to an o-ring type t-stat housing and haven't had any problems.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
#4
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
Thanks! I forgot to mention....I sanded the both surfaces each time to make sure of a good contact.....
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
#5
I had the same thing happening to my 71. It was leaking around the t-housing so I cleaned everything up real nice and put a new gasket on it and it was still leaking. It's a chrome after market. I take it off again and really looked at it real close and saw inside where it had rusted and it was leaking through little rust holes in the housing. Went and got a new one for $10 and fixed it right up.
RDP
RDP
#6
Racer
Happened to me also, went a got me on of those purrrdy chrome jobs, put it on and it leaked, replaced gasket with sealer and it still leaked. Upon a close inspection of the housing before the third try I found a hairline crack in it, went and got another one and all was fine...
YBnormal...drive a vette
YBnormal...drive a vette
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Update...
Thanks for all the input! Really appreciate it..... Just got back from a hard run....NO LEAKS! Between the Fel-pro gasket, the sealant AND the NEW chrome t-housing (another thing I forgot to mention), I think I got it....maybe with some over kill??
#9
Race Director
i wonder if a faulty pressure valve that is not releasing pressure can cause increased pressure and therefore the antifreeze looks for away out???
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i wonder if a faulty pressure valve that is not releasing pressure can cause increased pressure and therefore the antifreeze looks for away out???
Thanks
#11
Pro
Originally Posted by vetteguy75
This last time I used Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus (a blue plastic gasket Part #35562T) with a thin coat of gasket sealent. I noticed on the package of the Fel-Pro gasket it stated...."Important...Do Not use this gasket with any gasket sealent" I thought "OH Sh*t is it going to leak when I get up on the interstate????" Any help out there???
#12
Race Director
Originally Posted by vetteguy75
What is the pressure valve...the radiator cap?
Thanks
Thanks
yup, thats exactly what i mean.... instead of venting the pressure at the approriate PSI it does not vent and the whole radiator/cooling system gets over pressurized until something starts to leak....I would be curious to know at what temperature and for long before it starts to leak...as opposed to immediately after i turn it on...
Last edited by bobs77vet; 11-15-2004 at 12:00 PM.
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 1999
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Oldtimer
I have the same problem. Where can I get an O ring thermost housing with the O ring?
#14
Race Director
The perma dry gaskets are made of neopreme (sp). I have one for my oil pan. They work really well.
A mechanic friend of mine says they are really good because its hard to over torque the gasket and they last a looong time.
A mechanic friend of mine says they are really good because its hard to over torque the gasket and they last a looong time.
#15
Burning Brakes
I just bought a new thermostat housing this weekend for our super truck motor. Paid 9$ for it at Advance, we dispose of the chrome and aluminum housings and use the cast iron ones, they do not tend to bow like the softer metal ones but they will break if it gets in a bind and is overtorqued. Paint it your choice of color, install with gasket, and your leaks should be gone for good. This is just the fix we use but the o-ringed housing may work just as well.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
yup, thats exactly what i mean.... instead of venting the pressure at the approriate PSI it does not vent and the whole radiator/cooling system gets over pressurized until something starts to leak....I would be curious to know at what temperature and for long before it starts to leak...as opposed to immediately after i turn it on...
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by flood
The perma dry gaskets are made of neopreme (sp). I have one for my oil pan. They work really well.
A mechanic friend of mine says they are really good because its hard to over torque the gasket and they last a looong time.
A mechanic friend of mine says they are really good because its hard to over torque the gasket and they last a looong time.
#18
I use "The Right Stuff" http://www.permatex.com/right_stuff/right_stuff1.asp on just about everything. It's a little pricey, but it really seems to work. It comes in a little aerosol can with a nozzle. You just lay a bead down and it's almost immediately ready for use.