You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Corvetteforum.com today!
I decided these valve seals were the best swap I could do on my L82
"Summit"-brand Dart Iron Eagle S/S heads. Big valves, 67cc vortec-style chambers. And relatively inexpensive
__________________ Gone but not forgotten: '79 L-82 with Summit/Dart Iron Eagle SS "fuelie" heads, 64K miles, Steeroids, 200-4R 4-spd auto OD tranny, QJet (tuned by Lars!), true duals with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers, red leather interior, Blaupunkt CD player ... and crackle-finish paint.
Official Survivor of Lars' Tuning for Beer World Tour
I did this a while back with the NAPA positive stop seals. They are sort of white in color and have little springs on them. These cured all of my smoky start ups. Any positive stop seal should work for you.
If you have it done, it will run you about $400.00 or so. At least it did for me down here in TX. I don't have a compressor to do the air trick, so I had it done. I have not had a plug foul since I had the seals replaced, which was a good 8-10 months ago and my Vette is my daily driver for the most part. I took the seals to the guy that did my car and told him that I wanted to use them instead of the usual GM 'O' rings. The positive stop seals are light years better.
Ok, based on the picture posted, can somebody explain how they work? I pulled a chewed up set of these out of my heads and replaced them with the Felpro umbrella style. The engine has not been started yet as I've got one of those big body off restos going on.
So how do they snap onto the valve guide? Have to have a sepcial guide machined with a groove or something?
The valve guides should be machined and the seals just push down over them and are held in place by the spring wires. After I slid mine down the valves, I put a 1/2" deep socket over it, couple of taps with a hammer to seat it and good to go.
I originally had the Crane white teflons seals and was burning oil. My new viton seals from Edelbrock look exactly like the ones that Paul67 posted above.
Interesting that Paul used the Crane seals and didn't need to machine the guide? I thought the opposite,that positive seals required the guide to be machined?
The WP heads have came with the umbrella type of seal. I do have an oil usage problem that i haven't been able to track. Plugs are not fouled,some are running lean(white), no major oil leaks, but the engine uses 1 qt/600 miles. No heavy smoke unless shifting at 5500 RPM. I didn't to do a leak down or compression test yet.