WTT 1979 Trans Am for C3 $16.5k (+ or -)
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
WTT 1979 Trans Am for C3 $16.5k (+ or -)
Looking to trade value for value back in to a C3. I had an '81 that was a rough project that I sold and then got in to this T/A, but given the direction I see my project headed (more toward performance modification), I thought I would see if any C3 sellers might want to trade. Pricing for these cars is all over the place, and what people actually get when they do sell is anyone's guess, but to put a number on it, I'd sell for $16.5k cash.
I am not too particular about precisely what year C3 you might have, but I prefer a '78-80 and definitely do not want anything that needs paint and/or body work. An ideal candidate would have new/restored suspension/brakes, but might give up some value with a non-original or less desirable engine. I could kick in some cash, but no more than $5k max. Obviously we would both have to like the trade combination, so it’s a long shot, but worth posting, unless I’m breaking the rules here.
As for the Trans Am...
The prior owner did some restoration and in the process swapped in a 1969 428 (Casting #9792968, has "46" heads) and TH400, purportedly <2k miles on rebuild for both the engine and tranny, I've put another ~2k on it since. It was originally a 301 car.
There were quite a few loose ends that I have since tied up to get it running better. I put on an SMI rebuilt 800 CFM Q-jet (electric choke) and new DUI distributor. I also put on a Snow Performance water/methanol injection system to be able to run more timing as the 46 heads will lead to pinging on modern pump gas. It does not ping now with the system installed.
I replaced the big factory starter with a high torque Powermaster unit and wired it to work with a Ford style solenoid to move the switch away from the exhaust heat. During the engine swap, they used a set of shorty headers which you can make out in the underside pic, but they were severely bashed in to fit and leaked, so I replaced them with a set of Ram Air manifolds from RARE
I just installed a new set of rear springs and shocks with new high quality hardware too, the ones that came out were originals. Battery is ~1.5 years old (sits plugged in to a battery tender when parked), tires ~2 years, but low miles.
It starts up reliably after the carb gets primed and doesn't overheat.
The a/c blew cold for a month or two after I bought it, but I think it must have been a quick recharge that then leaked out, so that would need to be sorted out, but I was thinking about going with one of the Sanden style compact compressor kits that are out there, so I haven't addressed that yet.
Other nits: There is a small crack on the dash, the hood bird is old and yellowed a bit. The only rust I have found is in the underside of the trunk lid and it is very minor. The interior is complete and otherwise not cracked or torn, but the door panels are faded a bit and the carpet and seat foam look to be original. I will probably replace these next if I don't sell or trade it.
Let me know if there is anything else you want to know or see in a picture.
Most of the pics here are from the seller ad from when I purchased it three years ago, and they had more detail than I have put together since, but apart from the changes described above, it looks unchanged and has been garaged the entire time I have owned it. Car is in Houston, TX.
Attachment 48366805
Like I said, I’m hoping to comply with forum rules completely here, please PM me if you think anything is out of line.
I am not too particular about precisely what year C3 you might have, but I prefer a '78-80 and definitely do not want anything that needs paint and/or body work. An ideal candidate would have new/restored suspension/brakes, but might give up some value with a non-original or less desirable engine. I could kick in some cash, but no more than $5k max. Obviously we would both have to like the trade combination, so it’s a long shot, but worth posting, unless I’m breaking the rules here.
As for the Trans Am...
The prior owner did some restoration and in the process swapped in a 1969 428 (Casting #9792968, has "46" heads) and TH400, purportedly <2k miles on rebuild for both the engine and tranny, I've put another ~2k on it since. It was originally a 301 car.
There were quite a few loose ends that I have since tied up to get it running better. I put on an SMI rebuilt 800 CFM Q-jet (electric choke) and new DUI distributor. I also put on a Snow Performance water/methanol injection system to be able to run more timing as the 46 heads will lead to pinging on modern pump gas. It does not ping now with the system installed.
I replaced the big factory starter with a high torque Powermaster unit and wired it to work with a Ford style solenoid to move the switch away from the exhaust heat. During the engine swap, they used a set of shorty headers which you can make out in the underside pic, but they were severely bashed in to fit and leaked, so I replaced them with a set of Ram Air manifolds from RARE
I just installed a new set of rear springs and shocks with new high quality hardware too, the ones that came out were originals. Battery is ~1.5 years old (sits plugged in to a battery tender when parked), tires ~2 years, but low miles.
It starts up reliably after the carb gets primed and doesn't overheat.
The a/c blew cold for a month or two after I bought it, but I think it must have been a quick recharge that then leaked out, so that would need to be sorted out, but I was thinking about going with one of the Sanden style compact compressor kits that are out there, so I haven't addressed that yet.
Other nits: There is a small crack on the dash, the hood bird is old and yellowed a bit. The only rust I have found is in the underside of the trunk lid and it is very minor. The interior is complete and otherwise not cracked or torn, but the door panels are faded a bit and the carpet and seat foam look to be original. I will probably replace these next if I don't sell or trade it.
Let me know if there is anything else you want to know or see in a picture.
Most of the pics here are from the seller ad from when I purchased it three years ago, and they had more detail than I have put together since, but apart from the changes described above, it looks unchanged and has been garaged the entire time I have owned it. Car is in Houston, TX.
Attachment 48366805
Like I said, I’m hoping to comply with forum rules completely here, please PM me if you think anything is out of line.
Last edited by nate99; 07-10-2015 at 05:38 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Always liked the TAs. I've had a few 79s and still kick myself for passing up a mint '76 Black with Red interior 455 4sp. It was around 2001 and he was asking $6,500. I wound up buying a '78 Z28 instead which I restored and grew to hate.
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Sounds familiar. I passed up a decent 3rd gen Camaro as a first car and got a Mustang SVO that was a basket case.
#5
I am no mechanic but what does it take to maintain this?
"I also put on a Snow Performance water/methanol injection system to be able to run more timing as the 46 heads will lead to pinging on modern pump gas. It does not ping now with the system installed."
"I also put on a Snow Performance water/methanol injection system to be able to run more timing as the 46 heads will lead to pinging on modern pump gas. It does not ping now with the system installed."
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
It is fairly maintenance free, just add more mix when the tank gets low. I’ve only used Snow’s proprietary “boost juice”, though if you have a cheap source for methanol, you can make your own for peanuts, and I’ve heard of people running straight water, though I have not tried it.
The system signals the pump with a vacuum and RPM switch. If you are below a certain vacuum threshold (adjustable) and above a certain RPM (also adjustable) it sprays with a progressive increase to max output which can be further adjusted with different size nozzles.
If the control module went bad, you would have to get another one through Snow, but there are guys that have built their own systems using off the shelf sensors and switches. (http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html).
The pump itself is very similar to the kind used in agricultural spray rigs that you can get at Northern Tool or Tractor Supply.
A set of 6X-4 (or aftermarket aluminum) heads would be the ideal permanent fix, but I have not yet gone that far.
Last edited by nate99; 07-13-2015 at 09:15 AM.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
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#11
Race Director
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