Oil weight with forced induction
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Oil weight with forced induction
I have a stock internal LT1 with a remote mount turbo setup and i am wondering if I should be running a thicker weight oil now with the turbo? I am currently running 5W 30 Mobil 1.
#2
Melting Slicks
Thin oil flows better cold, Mobil 1 is ideal.
I would not worry too much about the Mobil 1 oil, good oil pressure is vital.
A high volume high pressure oil pump is the way to go.
Thicker oil would only really be of help if your rings were not sealing, to control oil burning.
Cheers
#3
Most engine wear on a 'normal' car engine occurs at start-up. So a 'regular' car that starts and stops many times a day benefits from say 0W-30 as far as reducing engine wear. The thinner oil gets to the parts quicker.
Also it takes energy to pump oil - thicker oil equals less MPG. Same reason that track racers may run the 1/4 faster with less oil in the crankcase at the expense of the engine.
Now on a high horsepower SBC I recommend 20W-50 to reduce bearing wear etc. I tell people start your car and let it idle for a full 5 minutes. Then when you drive it wait until coolant temp reaches 180F before any heavy throttle and I also tell them no WOT until engine oil reaches 200F. On a garage queen the number of start/stops is inconsequential to bearing wear but passing 600 or more HP thru the bearings is brutal on thin oil.
No oil will fix a worn engine but proper oil on a fresh engine may extend its' life or prevent premature failure. Just my humble opinion ! greg
Also it takes energy to pump oil - thicker oil equals less MPG. Same reason that track racers may run the 1/4 faster with less oil in the crankcase at the expense of the engine.
Now on a high horsepower SBC I recommend 20W-50 to reduce bearing wear etc. I tell people start your car and let it idle for a full 5 minutes. Then when you drive it wait until coolant temp reaches 180F before any heavy throttle and I also tell them no WOT until engine oil reaches 200F. On a garage queen the number of start/stops is inconsequential to bearing wear but passing 600 or more HP thru the bearings is brutal on thin oil.
No oil will fix a worn engine but proper oil on a fresh engine may extend its' life or prevent premature failure. Just my humble opinion ! greg
Last edited by BlowerWorks; 05-29-2015 at 08:20 AM.
#4
What are your opinion on something like a 5W-50 or 10W-60 instead of 20W-50?
Most engine wear on a 'normal' car engine occurs at start-up. So a 'regular' car that starts and stops many times a day benefits from say 0W-30 as far as reducing engine wear. The thinner oil gets to the parts quicker.
Also it takes energy to pump oil - thicker oil equals less MPG. Same reason that track racers may run the 1/4 faster with less oil in the crankcase at the expense of the engine.
Now on a high horsepower SBC I recommend 20W-50 to reduce bearing wear etc. I tell people start your car and let it idle for a full 5 minutes. Then when you drive it wait until coolant temp reaches 180F before any heavy throttle and I also tell them no WOT until engine oil reaches 200F. On a garage queen the number of start/stops is inconsequential to bearing wear but passing 600 or more HP thru the bearings is brutal on thin oil.
No oil will fix a worn engine but proper oil on a fresh engine may extend its' life or prevent premature failure. Just my humble opinion ! greg
Also it takes energy to pump oil - thicker oil equals less MPG. Same reason that track racers may run the 1/4 faster with less oil in the crankcase at the expense of the engine.
Now on a high horsepower SBC I recommend 20W-50 to reduce bearing wear etc. I tell people start your car and let it idle for a full 5 minutes. Then when you drive it wait until coolant temp reaches 180F before any heavy throttle and I also tell them no WOT until engine oil reaches 200F. On a garage queen the number of start/stops is inconsequential to bearing wear but passing 600 or more HP thru the bearings is brutal on thin oil.
No oil will fix a worn engine but proper oil on a fresh engine may extend its' life or prevent premature failure. Just my humble opinion ! greg
#5
Instructor
I would stay away from over the counter conventional oil if I have a high hp motor. If your going high temps off and on and or live somewhere that is in the upper temps all the time you will find that your engine wont start pitting and coming apart with better oils. I am on Joe Gibbs, AMSoil, Brad Penn... All seem to be better than Mobile 1. My car had nothing but Mobile 1 and changed it religiously since I have owned it and seems like it ended up killing the cam and rockers amongst other things.
#6
Go to the AMSOIL website and see the tech bulletin " Flat Tappet TSB "
Can't seem to copy link but get your eyes ready ! Modern engine oil additives limited due to CAT life !
The attached Bulletin shows that the Dominator Oil does have a little bit more zinc than does the Z-Rod Oil. The advantage of eh Z-Rod oil is in its ablity to prevent rust and corrosion during periods of non or little actual engine operation. I don’t think the small difference in zinc level is significant in your case, unless you are changing the oil after every race or run. (For your information, new car oils are limited to less than 800 ppm of zinc, and that is the concern most people have.)
Dominator 15-50 more than 1400 ppm !
Can't seem to copy link but get your eyes ready ! Modern engine oil additives limited due to CAT life !
The attached Bulletin shows that the Dominator Oil does have a little bit more zinc than does the Z-Rod Oil. The advantage of eh Z-Rod oil is in its ablity to prevent rust and corrosion during periods of non or little actual engine operation. I don’t think the small difference in zinc level is significant in your case, unless you are changing the oil after every race or run. (For your information, new car oils are limited to less than 800 ppm of zinc, and that is the concern most people have.)
Dominator 15-50 more than 1400 ppm !
Last edited by BlowerWorks; 06-04-2015 at 11:34 AM. Reason: Add Amsoil PDF