K&N vs. PUROLATOR
#1
Burning Brakes
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K&N vs. PUROLATOR
Recently purchased a PUROLATOR AIR FILTER for my stock '94 LT1—
mainly because the 2 or 3 parts places didn't have the K&N FILTER.
What is the BIG difference in the K&N FILTER and the OTHER filters?
Also, would it be worth changing the PUROLATOR for the K&N FILTER?
Thanks.
mainly because the 2 or 3 parts places didn't have the K&N FILTER.
What is the BIG difference in the K&N FILTER and the OTHER filters?
Also, would it be worth changing the PUROLATOR for the K&N FILTER?
Thanks.
#2
Melting Slicks
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Personally, I don't know what the hype is about the K&N filter except for the price. And I don't like Purolator. Not for anything in particular, just preference. I believe it's not up to par with some others out there. My choice for an oil filter is AC.
#3
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Oops. I saw air filter after I posted. My mistake. I like the K&N for the air filter. It will increase HP a bit, but allow a little more debris to pass through the filter. I wouldn't consider Purolator for the air filter.
#4
Race Director
There are 3 basic filter technologes .
The most prevalent is paper. Use it till it clogs then toss it....
K&N and Fram Air Hawgs both use a cotton filter that is oil/polymer impregnated. When it gets dirty you wash it, re-oil it and re-install it. They supposedly will last for over a million miles.
K&N's claim to fame is it flows better both when clean and dirty.
higher flow means "higher horsepower" with the possiblity of more particles getting through the filter.
The third type of technology is also washable. It is a foam filter that also uses an oil/polymer coating.
The most prevalent is paper. Use it till it clogs then toss it....
K&N and Fram Air Hawgs both use a cotton filter that is oil/polymer impregnated. When it gets dirty you wash it, re-oil it and re-install it. They supposedly will last for over a million miles.
K&N's claim to fame is it flows better both when clean and dirty.
higher flow means "higher horsepower" with the possiblity of more particles getting through the filter.
The third type of technology is also washable. It is a foam filter that also uses an oil/polymer coating.
#5
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Location: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
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St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by 85 500 horse
Personally, I don't know what the hype is about the K&N filter except for the price. And I don't like Purolator. Not for anything in particular, just preference. I believe it's not up to par with some others out there. My choice for an oil filter is AC.
#7
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The only advantage of the K & N, as I see it, is that it will flow better when it's dirty than a paper element when its dirty.
As I understand it, a clean paper unit will flow just as well as a clean K&N, but will filter finer particles.
The question then becomes, how fine do you have to filter?
(If particles getting past a filter are smaller than the thickness of the oil film on the bearings and cylinder walls, then they cause no wear.) A really dirty K&N probably filters as well as a new paper unit, which is all one could ask for.
Is the hassle of cleaning and re-oiling the K&N worth the extra cost? Each of us has to answer that question individually. I have cleaned many a K&N (cars, trucks, and bikes) and I just won't do it anymore. I like pulling a dirty paper unit, dropping a new one in its place, and driving away. That $18 every three years is nothing. (I don't put a lot of miles on my Corvette)
Now, if you drive 40K miles a year, the dollar savings from the K&N may lead you to a different decision....it will pay for itself in about 5 years (considering the cost of your cleaning time, soap, and genuine K&N filter oil). The fact that it takes about a day to dry the K&N after cleaning...which means your vehicle is down for that day... might have a bearing on which unit to get (although you could keep a paper unit to put in the car for that 24 hours, but then you'd have to add the cost of the paper unit to the cost of the K&N).
As you can see, it can get as complicated as you want it to get.
Bottom line: there is no universal BEST air filter. We have to weigh all the pros and cons.
Larry
code5coupe
As I understand it, a clean paper unit will flow just as well as a clean K&N, but will filter finer particles.
The question then becomes, how fine do you have to filter?
(If particles getting past a filter are smaller than the thickness of the oil film on the bearings and cylinder walls, then they cause no wear.) A really dirty K&N probably filters as well as a new paper unit, which is all one could ask for.
Is the hassle of cleaning and re-oiling the K&N worth the extra cost? Each of us has to answer that question individually. I have cleaned many a K&N (cars, trucks, and bikes) and I just won't do it anymore. I like pulling a dirty paper unit, dropping a new one in its place, and driving away. That $18 every three years is nothing. (I don't put a lot of miles on my Corvette)
Now, if you drive 40K miles a year, the dollar savings from the K&N may lead you to a different decision....it will pay for itself in about 5 years (considering the cost of your cleaning time, soap, and genuine K&N filter oil). The fact that it takes about a day to dry the K&N after cleaning...which means your vehicle is down for that day... might have a bearing on which unit to get (although you could keep a paper unit to put in the car for that 24 hours, but then you'd have to add the cost of the paper unit to the cost of the K&N).
As you can see, it can get as complicated as you want it to get.
Bottom line: there is no universal BEST air filter. We have to weigh all the pros and cons.
Larry
code5coupe
Last edited by rocco16; 06-14-2005 at 10:31 AM.
#8
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I agree with everything Larry said... All excellent points. On a slight tangent, I was able to pick up my K&N on eBay in "like new" condition for $20. That said, my thoughts on using it (in terms of $$$ per mile) are different than others might be, as it cost me next to nothing to begin with. I already had the cleaning kit from a previous vehicle, so all in all, I'm happy.