seijack

Wow,

I must say at the start what a JOB....Before trying this job I did many searches on the subject and I found a lot of good information....But nothing can prepare you for plugs #6 and #8!!!!!!

I decided to change the plugs because during my weekly start and run until operating temp. The engine after warming up had a definiate miss and rough idle along with exhaust backfire and a slight ping from the valves upon reving the engine to 2500-4000 rpms....This may be a bad opti-spark but I opted to start with the plugs then wires and then to the coil or opti in that order due to the car having only 21200 miles on it.........

Drivers Side:

I would say start here. This is by far the easiest side...I removed the 3 bolts from the ASR unit and disconected the plug for the unit. I then moved this unit without disconnecting the cables to the area on top of the ECU. I then removed the rubber tube (air injection I think) that is in the way of #5 and #7 plugs.....I then removed the wire looms from the heads without removing the wire retainers as these are a pain remove from the wires.......I removed the boots from the plugs.....I must say that the factory must use GLUE instead of grease to lube the boots to the plugs.............Remove plugs and install the new ones gapped to
.050......EASY NO PROBLEM........

Passenger Side:

I removed the wire loom from the head on plugs #2 and #4 and removed the boots from plugs #2 and #4. This is were it gets hairy: I finally had to use this special tool with a long handle screw driver to pry off the boots for #6 and #8



The jaws are protected by a thick piece of rubber that will not damage the plug boot......... I used this with success on both #6 and #8. The #2 and #4 plugs are easy........Here are the special tools needed for #6 and #8

#1




#2


Please note that the spark plug socket and socket from pic #2 are also used with the assembly in pic. #2..Also note that we as Corvette owners do not use Duct Tape ..........we use electircal tape hahaha....... I then removed the #6 and #8 plugs.......I then installed
plugs #6 and #8 using a piece of 3/8 i.d. rubber tubing.

Here is all the tools :



Have fun........take your time............it can be done

basselope

Wait a minute, wait a minute!

Dude... you've got a 6:1 ratio of spark plug to thread lubricant (blue label bottles) goin' on there. That just CAN'T be right!




Seriously though, thanks for the post! Mine are coming up soon.

jrogensk

Not to hijack the thread, but when I replaced the plugs on my 93 LT1 a couple months ago I did not use any anti-sieze. Should I have? Should I go ahead and pull them and put some on?

RogerZ06

I wouldn't worry about it if you change your plugs every year.

Tiggers

Hey if those two tools all the way to the left are snapon or craftsman, take them back! they are defective and I know they have a life time warranty! (they should be gold colored, not clear)

basselope

Agreed.
The idea of using anti seize compound is primarily for ease of removal after very long periods of time. It can also help protect your threads from wear/galling, but neither of these are worth removing fresh plugs just to dab on a bit of compound.

You're fine.

onedef92

The last time I changed mine, you could tell the previous owner balked on ol' Number 8 'cuz it was torqued in there tighter'n a **** with no anti-seize. It was the O.E.M. AC/Delco Platinum plug, the others were AutoLite Platinums.

I ended up using a breaker bar on TOP of a dash of thread penetrating solution on that **** to coax it out.

I used anti-seize and NGK TR-55 Platinums when I swapped 'em out. Great plugs!

jrogensk

I wasn't planning on pulling the plugs for a long time. In fact, after my friend and I finished up doing the plugs and wires I told him when it came time for new plugs/wires I would sell the car and get something else.

Maybe when it cools off here in Texas, and I feel ambitious, I'll pull them and put some anti-sieze on there.

Garret

I think your beer to frustration level is wrong, I only see two bottles..

seijack

I used the two beers on plugs 6 and 8. Now when I changed the Opti and the plug wires I used quite a few more of the clear bottles haha

Really the plug wires on the drivers side have to be the worst job. Very tight spot....If you already have put your plugs in I would not take them out just to put anti-seize on them....I just have always put a dab on ever since my Grandpa said it would be a good idea When I changed
the plugs in my 1972 Challenger way back when.

Iroc57

Love them special tools

corvetteronw

I asked for help from my 12 year old grandson when I changed the LT4 plugs and wires. Any time that I got into a tight situation I just had him use his skinny arms and hands and my eclectic stash of tools.
I had to take him to the local ice cream joint for a cold root beer float after the job was done.
And I never did get the wires from the drivers side to fit on the opti. I was short of time as I had to deliver the car back to the guy I originally bought it from that weekend and just did not even try. He had an extra set of new factory LT4 wires and a lift in his garage anyway so I let him have that "fun".

psychodiagnostik

I didn't have too much trouble on my '93, but I have skinny arms, hands, and wrists. I do remember I actually did the passenger side firewall plug with my back to the car, and my hands working underhanded... they fit the best this way, and it only took a swivel-head rachet and spark plug socket. This seemed to be the most useful tool for me, for this job: ordinary Craftsman swivel head rachet.

Lrod

I jacked up my 96, pulled off the wheels and inner fenders. I don't know if it was easier but I thought it was?

onedef92

It's a PITA job, I don't care how you slice it. The only way it could suck any more would be doing it on an F-Body. At least we have the clamshell hood for engine accessibility.

formul89

That's for damn sure. Plugs and MSD 8.5 wires took me 9 hours on a '96 Z28.

Now I know why the dealer wanted $300 just in labor for this...

redwing76

Got mine done at a friends shop........$125.00 for labor it was real easy.

Churchkey

The right side is alot easier if you remove the middle & rear section of the wheel house. Takes about 5 minutes to get it off. 10mm socket, a 30 & 15 torx bit & if memory serves a 6mm socket for the lines attached to the center section over the a arm.

Richard G

There is no doubt that replacing the sparkplugs and wires is an auto experience of a life time that primes you for the Opti.
I still have scars to prove it.

grayml

Amen!!! Leaning back against the car is the only way I have found to get the right angle on that #8 plug. Some will say to lay across the engine but I don't think that is necessary.