Security system locked out ignition?
#1
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Security system locked out ignition?
My 94 wont start.
Is it possible that my security system has locked me out of the ability to start my car. Car will not start or turn over. Its at the shop and the guys are having issues with it. I changed out the master and slave cylinder and had issue bleeding the line so i towed it to the shop. The fixed the clutch so it goes all the way in now, but cant start the car. The security light is on. I have the FOB transmitter, it is with them now. For some reason the car wont turn over though.
Any ideas. I dont have the manual. No issues like this before...
Is it possible that my security system has locked me out of the ability to start my car. Car will not start or turn over. Its at the shop and the guys are having issues with it. I changed out the master and slave cylinder and had issue bleeding the line so i towed it to the shop. The fixed the clutch so it goes all the way in now, but cant start the car. The security light is on. I have the FOB transmitter, it is with them now. For some reason the car wont turn over though.
Any ideas. I dont have the manual. No issues like this before...
#2
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It's the damn VATS likely. Try another key.
The VATS is controlled by the ECM. Changing locks (PITA) will only work if the key stays the same VATS number, of which there are 15 possibilities. Disabling your VATS would be a solution. Go to a locksmith, they will test your key and be able to sell you a module to disable VATS. Remove the underdash panel on the driver side. You should easily spot a two-wire grouping, I believe yellow/orange/green and white, just to the right of the steering column (as it was on my 1989 TA). You should notice that it disconnects in the middle. Disconnect it, insert the module you got from the locksmith into the wire going towards the firewall. Voila, VATS is now disabled. The module will cost you $25 - and your car will never not start because of VATS. It actually took me longer to remove the underdash panel than it did to locate the wire and insert the module.
As for the security feature of VATS being disabled, only you will know. A car thief will likely pass your car by for another, like a Camry or Honda.
The VATS is controlled by the ECM. Changing locks (PITA) will only work if the key stays the same VATS number, of which there are 15 possibilities. Disabling your VATS would be a solution. Go to a locksmith, they will test your key and be able to sell you a module to disable VATS. Remove the underdash panel on the driver side. You should easily spot a two-wire grouping, I believe yellow/orange/green and white, just to the right of the steering column (as it was on my 1989 TA). You should notice that it disconnects in the middle. Disconnect it, insert the module you got from the locksmith into the wire going towards the firewall. Voila, VATS is now disabled. The module will cost you $25 - and your car will never not start because of VATS. It actually took me longer to remove the underdash panel than it did to locate the wire and insert the module.
As for the security feature of VATS being disabled, only you will know. A car thief will likely pass your car by for another, like a Camry or Honda.
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I took my other key up there and it didn't work. The FOB is locking and unlocking the doors. The security light flashes when the door is open and you put the key in. I think once you turn the key over and nothing happens the light goes out. Damn thing would not turn over either way. We thought maybe that the wires on the key ignition had detached or gone bad maybe. They are going to look at that tomorrow.
Does the security light need to be solid of flashing? I think flashing means that vats has not notice itself.
I would prefer to leave the security (vats stuff) together if at all possible.
Does the security light need to be solid of flashing? I think flashing means that vats has not notice itself.
I would prefer to leave the security (vats stuff) together if at all possible.
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2021 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I would start with the clutch start switch and the starter enable relay as these have to send the signal to the CCM (Central Control Module) which then sends a signal to ECM (Engine Control Module) for the fuel system to turn on. On my '93 there is a clutch fuse located in the I\P fuse panel (5 amp). The fuse is between the ignition switch and the clutch start switch. Hope this helps.
#6
I would start with the clutch start switch and the starter enable relay as these have to send the signal to the CCM (Central Control Module) which then sends a signal to ECM (Engine Control Module) for the fuel system to turn on. On my '93 there is a clutch fuse located in the I\P fuse panel (5 amp). The fuse is between the ignition switch and the clutch start switch. Hope this helps.
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#9
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Ok, well i got it back after 3 days in the shop. I was told it was the clutch switch that was not working right. They stated something about finding one and the wires where the wrong colors and it was working fine?? Then they dug deeper under the console and found another switch or the correct one and fixed it.
There seems to be an issue when my master and slave install that i tried to complete myself though with failure due to not being able to get under the car well. If interested you can look at this post. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1905652 I'm going to continue the rest of this in that post. Now that master and slave are fixed by the shop, I'm having to push my #ss off on the clutch to get the car to turn over and its getting harder to get into gear. I think there is something wrong with something in the master or slave still, and the clutch switch thing was not true or not the root issue. Its getting harder and harder by the day to get the car in and out of gears and i dont think the clutch is being able to get pushed in enough to set the clutch switches. I'm basically having to push an indention in the floor board carpet with the pedal to turn the car over.
There seems to be an issue when my master and slave install that i tried to complete myself though with failure due to not being able to get under the car well. If interested you can look at this post. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1905652 I'm going to continue the rest of this in that post. Now that master and slave are fixed by the shop, I'm having to push my #ss off on the clutch to get the car to turn over and its getting harder to get into gear. I think there is something wrong with something in the master or slave still, and the clutch switch thing was not true or not the root issue. Its getting harder and harder by the day to get the car in and out of gears and i dont think the clutch is being able to get pushed in enough to set the clutch switches. I'm basically having to push an indention in the floor board carpet with the pedal to turn the car over.
Last edited by bwallace2; 03-27-2008 at 09:06 AM.
#10
Drifting
With the door open, the Security light will flash. When you LOCK the door the security light will stay on steady, this means the alarm is now armed. If you Unlock the door the Security light will go back to flashing, now the alarm is NOT armed.