R-12 freon
#1
Racer
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R-12 freon
I have an 89 coupe, it still has the R-12 freon in it. How hard to convert to the 134-A freon ? When I was at the local parts store, they had a kit to retrofit to the 134-A. Looks like in the kit all it had was 3 cans of freon, and the fittings to screw on to the old R-12 fittings. Is all you do is drain the system, change the orfice fittings, pull the vacuum, and refill the system ?
#3
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I've had bad luck with those type kits, maybe others have had better experiences. The problem is that your old compressor and lines are desinged to handle the pressure of r12; 134A compresses at a much higher pressure, and can/will cause your existing system to wear down much quicker, as it was not designed to operate at the higher pressures. IMHO, the best method is to replace the existing compressor with one designed to handle the higher pressure of 134a, even moving to a Sanden-style compressor, and replacing the dryer. But, many have had decent luck adding a product called freeze-12, a lighter version of 134a, that blends fairly well with r12, if all you need is a little boost. I'd ask a qualified ac specialist before adding, it would be good to have a pressure test done to see if that is really the route you need to take.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
#4
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '06
If you do a search, several people have done write ups on doing the conversion. Basically you vacuum system, replace drier, seals, o-rings and put in R-134 and r-134 oil.
#5
Burning Brakes
I too recommend the Freeze-12 solution. I just moved back to my hometown after 20 years in Dallas, TX. Nearly everyone I ran into with AC problems recommended the Freeze-12 route.
Perhaps 20 years from now when all this globalwarmingozoneholepolaricecapmelting theskyisfallingenvironmentalcrisiscarbon footprint crap is accepted to be the hoax it is, maybe we all can go back to R-12 once and for all.
Too, you could cross the border into Mexico and buy all the R-12 you want for about 50 cents a can. It's still manufactured and sold there. But beware: It's contriband in the U.S. thanks to the environazis.
Perhaps 20 years from now when all this globalwarmingozoneholepolaricecapmelting theskyisfallingenvironmentalcrisiscarbon footprint crap is accepted to be the hoax it is, maybe we all can go back to R-12 once and for all.
Too, you could cross the border into Mexico and buy all the R-12 you want for about 50 cents a can. It's still manufactured and sold there. But beware: It's contriband in the U.S. thanks to the environazis.
#6
Re Freon 12
Hi,
Last fall I converted to 134a. I was not happy to make the conversion but I was convinced to make the change because I needed a new compressor and the 134a would be just as effective keeping the car cold.
I also changed the receiver, O rings and oil. I did not flush my system but I would recommend it. I would also recommend that after you have done all the mechanical work that you have a professional check and fill the system.
There is an element of personal bodily injury working with any of the Freon family of products. Just a warning here.
The conversion went just fine and the 134a is colder then the F12. After the pros have gotten the system running well you can keep the charge up yourself with the DIY kits. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES when you do any work with Freon products.
Good luck
Don
Last fall I converted to 134a. I was not happy to make the conversion but I was convinced to make the change because I needed a new compressor and the 134a would be just as effective keeping the car cold.
I also changed the receiver, O rings and oil. I did not flush my system but I would recommend it. I would also recommend that after you have done all the mechanical work that you have a professional check and fill the system.
There is an element of personal bodily injury working with any of the Freon family of products. Just a warning here.
The conversion went just fine and the 134a is colder then the F12. After the pros have gotten the system running well you can keep the charge up yourself with the DIY kits. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES when you do any work with Freon products.
Good luck
Don
#7
Team Owner
Is the A/C system working? If there is nothing wrong, why change it?
There are a number of steps involved to do a proper conversion of R12 to R134a and I would recommend that you have it done at a shop that has qualified and experienced techs to do the work properly and safely.
If your system has a full charge of R-12, the shop may even pay you for it (or at least reduce the cost of the conversion). In our shop, we have a machine that has an R-12 storage tank that filters the R-12 going in. We then use that to do repairs on older R-12 systems if a customer does not want to do a conversion.
IMHO, this is not really a DIY project if you don't have the proper tools and the knowledge of automotive A/C systems. As mentioned, you should change the orifice, o-rings, drier and have access to the R134a pressure gauges. And what would you do with the old R-12??
There are a number of steps involved to do a proper conversion of R12 to R134a and I would recommend that you have it done at a shop that has qualified and experienced techs to do the work properly and safely.
If your system has a full charge of R-12, the shop may even pay you for it (or at least reduce the cost of the conversion). In our shop, we have a machine that has an R-12 storage tank that filters the R-12 going in. We then use that to do repairs on older R-12 systems if a customer does not want to do a conversion.
IMHO, this is not really a DIY project if you don't have the proper tools and the knowledge of automotive A/C systems. As mentioned, you should change the orifice, o-rings, drier and have access to the R134a pressure gauges. And what would you do with the old R-12??
#9
Burning Brakes
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As long as you have a operational/semi-operational system (a little low on freon maybe)........ I'm with some of the others here. Get some freeze12 to keep the charge up.
With that said........I will be doing the 134a conversion this weekend (ruptured hose on the system when I purchased the car).
New compressor and new hoses built for it. Just gotta flush what is left of the system put all the new stuff in.........suck it down, fill it up and be done with it.
Being a vert that doesn't get driven with the top up.........only reason I am even going to do it is because it will most likely get sold this Spring or Summer and it needs a working a/c for resale value in Texas.
If you do change it out to 134 though............FLUSH out the system!!!! I would also get a new compressor and hoses also.
The oil that is in the system is not compatible with 134a.
Orifice tube and drier bottle also need to be replaced for the swap (or any other time the system is cracked open).
With that said........I will be doing the 134a conversion this weekend (ruptured hose on the system when I purchased the car).
New compressor and new hoses built for it. Just gotta flush what is left of the system put all the new stuff in.........suck it down, fill it up and be done with it.
Being a vert that doesn't get driven with the top up.........only reason I am even going to do it is because it will most likely get sold this Spring or Summer and it needs a working a/c for resale value in Texas.
If you do change it out to 134 though............FLUSH out the system!!!! I would also get a new compressor and hoses also.
The oil that is in the system is not compatible with 134a.
Orifice tube and drier bottle also need to be replaced for the swap (or any other time the system is cracked open).
Last edited by Greg0u812; 04-23-2008 at 07:09 PM.
#10
Safety Car
As long as you have a operational/semi-operational system (a little low on freon maybe)........ I'm with some of the others here. Get some freeze12 to keep the charge up.
With that said........I will be doing the 134a conversion this weekend (ruptured hose on the system when I purchased the car).
New compressor and new hoses built for it. Just gotta flush what is left of the system put all the new stuff in.........suck it down, fill it up and be done with it.
Being a vert that doesn't get driven with the top up.........only reason I am even going to do it is because it will most likely get sold this Spring or Summer and it needs a working a/c for resale value in Texas.
If you do change it out to 134 though............FLUSH out the system!!!! I would also get a new compressor and hoses also.
The oil that is in the system is not compatible with 134a.
Orifice tube and drier bottle also need to be replaced for the swap (or any other time the system is cracked open).
With that said........I will be doing the 134a conversion this weekend (ruptured hose on the system when I purchased the car).
New compressor and new hoses built for it. Just gotta flush what is left of the system put all the new stuff in.........suck it down, fill it up and be done with it.
Being a vert that doesn't get driven with the top up.........only reason I am even going to do it is because it will most likely get sold this Spring or Summer and it needs a working a/c for resale value in Texas.
If you do change it out to 134 though............FLUSH out the system!!!! I would also get a new compressor and hoses also.
The oil that is in the system is not compatible with 134a.
Orifice tube and drier bottle also need to be replaced for the swap (or any other time the system is cracked open).
#11
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I could be wrong on this but I think I recall one of the AC gurus here saying that Freeze 12 was propane and you run the risk of the car exploding.
#12
Burning Brakes
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I get most of the stuff I use for a/c work from a local wholesale guy. I don't know why he sales to me (his main sales are actually to a rather sizable auto parts chain). I think he just "digs" the fact that I do all my own work.
As far as the cost goes.......honestly do not remember. I bought most of the parts back in October (along with some more tools and a couple of other compressors for some "shade tree" jobs). Already have the flush, o-rings and refrigerant (I buy all that in bulk).
As far as the cost goes.......honestly do not remember. I bought most of the parts back in October (along with some more tools and a couple of other compressors for some "shade tree" jobs). Already have the flush, o-rings and refrigerant (I buy all that in bulk).
#13
.....if you can stay with r-12 refrigerant, then keep using it....however, if you are gonna change over, all the oil (by chemical flushing) has to come out of the system (inc the compressor), dryer and orifice tube have to be replaced, all the o-rings in the system, new H + L side fittings have to be added, and adjustment has to be made to the cut-off switch suction side....
..."12" works better then "134" imo and i have seen people using the"stiock" compressors w/o incident....
..."12" works better then "134" imo and i have seen people using the"stiock" compressors w/o incident....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 04-24-2008 at 08:40 PM. Reason: grammer corection
#15
....once you convert (if that is what you want to do) the pieces as aforementioned, you will also need to pull a vaccum on the system and let stand for an hour to check for leaks (gauges required) before attempting to reintroduce refrigerant into the system...
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 04-24-2008 at 08:45 PM. Reason: additional
#16
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There is a product called hot shot. It is a drop in replacement for r-12. I think it can be mixed ith r-12. I'm not sure if auto parts store sell it or not but you might try a mechanical contractor you may find one that will sell you a drum
#17
#18
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '06
#19
Burning Brakes
A local mechanic that I trust, told me to put 134 in with my R12. He said he has known of people doing it for years, with no problems. He said there is an adapter to put it in the R12 system. Not saying it is true, but I trust this guy's work.
Shawn
Shawn
#20
.. .....geez.....yeah, go right ahead... ..they use 2 different oils, etc....temp curves different as well as pressures., etc.......if you trust him, whatever you do don't let him do your brakes!!