littlesk8cracker

alright, hopefully changing the mounts tomorrow as long as it doesent rain. so are these the steps? raise car, unbolt mount from bottom, jack engine up by pan, remove cross bolt on mount, swap old one with new one, reverse? sounds pretty easy, anything im missing or should watch out for?

pr0zac

38ft/lb

littlesk8cracker

well, did the passengers side mount tonight. what a pita!!!!!!!! no way we can do the drivers side, its even tighter in there! got the passengers side in an all and it seems to have helped, but not completely eliminated the problem. tomorrow im gonna torque the c beam bolts and if that dont solve the problem, then that leaves the driver side mount. and im gonna have to pay to have someone do that one cause theres no way we can

pianoguy

Did you remove the middle fenderwell panel? That should give you more room to work. Also if the A/C compressor is in the way, it's only a few bolts to get it out of the way.

littlesk8cracker

damn didnt even think to remove that panel! that woulda helped alot!

pianoguy

I take that panel for granted - I've had it out so many times I should attach it with velcro - LOL!

littlesk8cracker

haha ya iv only had the car for a week and i can see why! i was looking at the plug wires since im slowly going through a whole tune up on the car, how in the hell do you get them on and off the optispark? i could barely see where they go in? im gonna have to pop these fenderwells off tomorrow to really get a good look at what i can do around this thing. its so tight in there, nothing like my old camaro haha

pianoguy

The best thing to do to gain access to the wires is to remove the power steering pulley (you'll need a puller). You will also likely want to loosen the PS pump to allow you to snake the wires behind it. Search around and you'll find lots of threads about installing plugs and wires.

96GS#007

I've never removed the pulley. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump in place and it easily moves out of the way.

littlesk8cracker

haha man, all this work just to do spark plug wires. i can tell this car is gonna be funn

aboatguy

I've never removed the power steering pulley either even for engine Removal/replacement

ScaryFast

It's typically only the passenger motor mount that fails. It's in tension under loading and the driver side is under compression.

I've been through two passenger side mounts, original driver side.

Wait - am I backward? Now I can't remember. :o Regardless, one of them fails the other doesn't.

littlesk8cracker

well the shifter still lifts up some but the whole thing doesent crash up and down and make noise, so the passenger side mount helped alot. i still wanna check the c beam though, maybe that will get rid of the rest of the shifter movement?

ScaryFast

There are some C beam reinforcements you can get from zfdoc.com. They're cheap. I personally have not used them, but lots of guys here swear by them. Give them a call and see if they think it might help your shifty shifter.

Shifty shifter Damn I'm funny.

Virginc4r

I just bought a 1993 C4 and the shifter moves up and down like yours. I ordered new motor mounts but haven't put them on yet. Was it your c-beam or the mounts?

WVZR-1

You tagged a nearly 7 year old thread - some might mention a "NEW" post! You need to inspect/evaluate all of the mounts/c-beam hardware. If c-beam mounting points are worn to be now oval vs.round it's a tough correction. C-beam plates may help but don't expect them to be "A FIX". Mounts - doesn't hurt I'd say to replace 20+ year old hardware ever.

If you don't see much activity here you may try finding a more recent thread (there should be many) or a new one!!

Virginc4r

Will you tell me whatever happened with your C4? I have had mine a week znd have the same problem...would like a little advice please.

There was a Captain Obvious that let me know the thread was old but if I knew another way or found a more recent post with the snswer I would have not bothered to try and contact you.

This is @-littlesk8cracker.html

wikdwizard

The mounts are hydraulic, but do have rubber that separates. The DS is the one under more stress, and therefore is usually in worse shape, but replacing both is the wise move. They are not a walk in the park, but not horrid either. Having headers and no cats has always been my experience, so I cannot speak for working around the OEM setup. I would never recommend jacking on the oil pan. If you collapse the bottom of it you affect the clearance of your oil pump pickup at a minimum, and could even dislodge it from the pump in the long run.

Virginc4r

There were some loose bolts on the torque beam. Problem solved. Thanks everyone for advice.

WVZR-1

Captain Obvious here - a couple questions

The bores weren't worn to be elongated vs. round? Did it seem to correct the majority of your issue? Maybe all of the lift issue?