what chemical paint stripper do you recamend??
04-20-2010, 09:38 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
what chemical paint stripper do you recamend??
i am taking the paint off my 84. im taking the front and rear "bumpers" off as i do not want to get stripper on them. any suggestions and where to get a good chemical fiberglass stripper?? thanks guys!
04-20-2010, 11:34 AM
#2
Race Director
Not one. The 84 and all following years are not fiberglass as the 82 and before were. The SMP used today is not friendly with chemical strippers. Most painters will recommend sanding. There is always blasting but it is very expensive not to mention messy.
04-20-2010, 07:07 PM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05
Dont
04-20-2010, 07:27 PM
#5
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sheet mold composite.
Depends how much you like your vette. If you like it, sand it properly. There is no shortcut to a nice paint job. If you dont like it and want to make a rat rod corvette, stripper would be fine.
I never use paint stripper on cars. Creates to many varibles later during the painting process and beyond.
Depends how much you like your vette. If you like it, sand it properly. There is no shortcut to a nice paint job. If you dont like it and want to make a rat rod corvette, stripper would be fine.
I never use paint stripper on cars. Creates to many varibles later during the painting process and beyond.
Last edited by CorvetteMike2024; 04-20-2010 at 09:17 PM.
04-20-2010, 08:45 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Leave the stripper on the shelf, like everyone said, it is not good for your car. Get plenty of sandpaper, sanding blocks, beer, friends, and a big container of elbow grease and go to town.
04-21-2010, 08:56 AM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
thanks all. thats why i posted. this car has two layers of paint on it. it looks like the previous owner just wet sanded the old paint and painted over it. i got some work cut out ahead of me. i have a good orbital sander and strong air compressor. what grit is good as to NOT dig into the fiberglass?? any suggestions? i was thinking 80 grit at first to get the top layer off then go to 120.
04-21-2010, 09:28 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Do NOT remove the base coat of paint, it is the best thing for new paint to adhere to. That's why the po did what he did.
04-21-2010, 09:31 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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As an addendum, I am getting my car ready now. It had been painted once over the original finish. I am prepping the surface with 240 and will spray a polyester primer for fill in and film build characteristics. Makes guide coating a one time shot. Also polyester doesn't shrink like talc based primers and it's compatible with most top coats.
Some will argue for an epoxy based primer , which is fine, I just have had great luck over the last 35 years using this method.
stay away from the random orbit sanders, get a good palm sander or do it by hand.
less risk of creating low spots.
Some will argue for an epoxy based primer , which is fine, I just have had great luck over the last 35 years using this method.
stay away from the random orbit sanders, get a good palm sander or do it by hand.
less risk of creating low spots.
04-21-2010, 10:56 AM
#11
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04-21-2010, 06:17 PM
#12
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you don't get the 180 scratches out you primer over them. Sorry I didn't make that clear
Cuisinart is right you will have a hard time getting 80 grit out, in fact you probably wont.
180 is about as aggressive as you want to get before priming.
Cuisinart is right you will have a hard time getting 80 grit out, in fact you probably wont.
180 is about as aggressive as you want to get before priming.
Last edited by RLG; 04-21-2010 at 07:50 PM. Reason: misread post
04-21-2010, 07:13 PM
#13
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I only block sand myself. If your not a pro painter , or bodyman, using anything other then a rubber block you are taking some serious chances of causing more damage than your fixing. Just bow up and sand it on a block 220 grit wet.
Last edited by CorvetteMike2024; 04-21-2010 at 07:23 PM.
04-22-2010, 02:37 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
sanding down to the base coat. question. what if the original basecoat is contamanated somehow? it appears they wetsanded the basecoat and painted over it already, hence the bubbling and craking,crows feet ect. is it ill advised to take her down to primer??? also i dont mind doing it by hand, however what are all your thoughts on taking the first coat of paint of with the d.a. i have body expieriance with the tools. i have done 3 vettes before but non with the smc. again , i really appriciate all of your input and advice guys. thanks alot!!!!!!
04-22-2010, 03:28 PM
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Id take it all the way down if it were me.
04-22-2010, 04:19 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Strippers are usualy fiberglass safe now days, But I still don't recommend using them. I don't recommend them on steel.
The quickest and best way to remove all old coatings from SMC fiberglass is bi-carbon soda blasting. It works like a normal sand blaster but uses a baking soda like media. It's 100% safe for fiberglass and SMC fiberglass.
Soda blasting is quite amazing. You can leave the panels on the car wile blasting. It wont damage glass, ABS plastic, urethane, chrome or rubber molding. It will NOT pit or effect the fiberglass in any negative way. It will leave a film over the blasted area but it cleans up easy with soap and water.
You can get a OK soda blaster for around $200 and its about $40 per 50lbs of media. Or you can have it done. Until a few months ago I had all my fiberglass panels soda blasted professionally for around $60 per panel. ($120 for hood) Now I have my own blaster and it was one of the best tools ive ever bought. Check out Eastwood.com they have a few videos showing one in action removing paint from SMC fiberglass.
If blasting is not for you, then sanding is the next best method. Just be careful, Keep the sander flat and dont cut into the fiberglass.
Oh and it's ALWAYS better to start from a bare substrate. Not only will it look better with less coatings on it, But it will have a better hold and remove the risk of cross contamination.
The quickest and best way to remove all old coatings from SMC fiberglass is bi-carbon soda blasting. It works like a normal sand blaster but uses a baking soda like media. It's 100% safe for fiberglass and SMC fiberglass.
Soda blasting is quite amazing. You can leave the panels on the car wile blasting. It wont damage glass, ABS plastic, urethane, chrome or rubber molding. It will NOT pit or effect the fiberglass in any negative way. It will leave a film over the blasted area but it cleans up easy with soap and water.
You can get a OK soda blaster for around $200 and its about $40 per 50lbs of media. Or you can have it done. Until a few months ago I had all my fiberglass panels soda blasted professionally for around $60 per panel. ($120 for hood) Now I have my own blaster and it was one of the best tools ive ever bought. Check out Eastwood.com they have a few videos showing one in action removing paint from SMC fiberglass.
If blasting is not for you, then sanding is the next best method. Just be careful, Keep the sander flat and dont cut into the fiberglass.
Oh and it's ALWAYS better to start from a bare substrate. Not only will it look better with less coatings on it, But it will have a better hold and remove the risk of cross contamination.
04-22-2010, 10:55 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
primer is what i first intended. did i mention the car is black. yup, fun times ahead with getting things laser strait. again thanks for the tips. i plan on posting the whole process.