vennum

My A/C was not cooling so I purchased a do-it-yourself kit to recharge and seal my A/C

Took a look on You Tube to see how to recharge the A/C

It said on the video to check to see that the compressor was kicking in / turning on.

As I turned the A/C on and waited for it to cool, the compressor never turned on

The air blows at room temperature, the fan will blow at low speeds and increases and decreases normally. The air blows out of the dash vents, the defrost windshield vents, and the lower feet vents. The air will get hotter if the I raise the temp setting and will go back to room temp by lowering the temp setting. So that is fine.

I looked that up on the forum and someone said to apply 12 volts to the compressor to see if that would make the clutch kick in... did that and the clutch did kick in.

Now I will check the A/C relay by the battery by replacing it with the fan relay.

I think that I may just be that the system is low on freon and is keeping the clutch from activating.

Should I try to add some freon to see if that will allow the compressor to activate?

I was thinking of turning on the A/C and applying 12 volts to the compressor to see if the air would blow cold. Not a fix, just to check if that would was the problem that the compressor was ok and just not getting electricity to activate it.

Any ideas on what I should try next?

Thanks for all of your help.

94z07fx3

If you have electronicly controlled AC then see if the system will tell you the problem.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570426699-post29.html

SunCr

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...ompressor.html

Forget the Sealer - it'll just plug it up and break it.

Ok - now that you've cleared the Code, you need to keep it from coming back while you add gas. The PCM monitors the Low Pressure Switch which opens with Low Pressure and with Low gas it starts opening and closing the ground circuit to the Compressor Relay rather fast. When the PCM sees this, it shuts it down and sets the troublecode via the CCM Link to the Programmer. So to keep the circuit closed, you jumper the Low Pressure Switch connector with a paperclip. That will keep the Compressor running and the system will suck in the gas from the can.

Once you get it running again, you can remove the paperclip and reconnect the harness. Then go get it leak checked to find out if you need to do something more to stay cool all summer.

vennum

"So to keep the circuit closed, you jumper the Low Pressure Switch connector with a paperclip."


Where is the Low Pressure Switch Connector located?


If you have some pix I am sure that it would help many of us.


Thanks so much, its people like you that make this forum a success.

navyndi2

Hmm, i'd like to see a picture of that too so I don't mess with the wrong thing.

vennum

found a couple of websites that may help some of us with a/c trouble.

WWW.FreeAutoMechanic.com

and


WWW.ASKJEFFSWILLIAMS.COM

Seems like the low pressure pressure switch connector is on the accumulator, the aluminum cylinder piece in front of the engine area.

SunCr

It's either on the Evaporator Outlet which is the Big Tube on top at the Firewall - or the Accumulator. Try the Board at www.ackits.com

vennum

Where does the white orifice tube go?

The little filter deal, it is very inexpensive like $1.27 on ackits website.

Is it easy to install, replace?

vennum

Where does the white orifice tube go?


It is very inexpensive, $1.27


Is it hard to replace?

SunCr

Orifice is located at the Evaporator Inlet which is the bottom, smaller line at the Firewall. To replace it, you will have to discharge the system. Use a backup wrench at the fitting to keep from bending or breaking the line or Evaporator Inlet. The only reason to replace or remove it is if you suspect that it's plugged up. If it is, you'll need to find out why. Anyway, a manifold gage set is necessary so that you can obtain operating pressures.

big wave

Actually the Refrigerant (freon is just the trade mark name from Dupont) Just be sure if you do remove the schrader value or orifice you MUST vacuum the entire system out with a vacuum pump down to 500 microns. 134A refrigerant ABSORBS moisture out of the air fast and the compressor can not condense non condensable gases you will destroy your compressor. If you are low on Refrigerant then your low pressure switch will not allow compressor to come on. Most likely you have a leak and low pressure switch is not allowing compressor to come on. To check for leaks pump up system with nitrogen and use soap bubbles on all fitting. U must also recover all 134 a in the system first. I know its a pain but if you open your cooling system to the atmosphere you must vacuum out system. To get the correct super heat and subcooling you need to take temp at the outlet of the condenser for subcooling and at the outlet of the evap. Here is a very easy way to measure superheat and subcooling. You will need a gauge set, a thermometer, and a pressure and temperature chart. Hook up the guage set and turn the unit on and let it run for a few minutes. Take a thermometer and measure the temperature of the copper lines coming out of the condenser. One will be cold, and one will be hot, or warm. Now record the pressure of the suction line and discharge line. Convert that pressure to temperature using a chart, or if your guages have the correct scales on them for the refrigerant you are working with. Some guage sets have R-22 and R-12 temperature reading right under the pressure readings. After you have converted the pressure reading to temperature, subtract the two temperature readings to get your superheat(suction) and subcooling(liquid) temperatures.

SunCr

Neither superheat or subcooling are considered by mobil a/c guys - the working environment makes it too easy to get it wrong and there are low and high limits to save you. Keep that stuff for your home unit and for that, use the mfg's. chart on the inside of the shroud.