glass/acrylic targa top, paint/replacement options?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
glass/acrylic targa top, paint/replacement options?
Hey all, I am a new member here. I recently "inherited" my dad's 85 coupe...he bought a c5 and let the c4 sit for several years, so it is now my resto project. It needs paint, interior, weatherstrip, glass, etc.
I have the mechanicals pretty well straight from what I can tell, so I figure next on the list is paint. While I am considering color options, I need to know what to do about the targa top.
The top is a bluish clear glass/plastic. It's not cracked deep or broken anywhere. But the sun/weather has caused fine spider cracking across the whole thing. It looks normal from outside, but looks really crappy when inside, like broken safety glass (like if you've ever seen a broken side glass with window tint still holding it together).
My question for now...is this something that can be prepped and painted over successfully? If not, what are my options for obtaining a painted/paintable targa section? I see there are glass/acrylic replicas on ebay for upwards of 600 bucks...I really dont care to have a glass top, and would just as well paint over it and put a thin headliner trim piece inside and leave it alone.
I'm not a purist and have no interest in "keeping the car original" or using "original spec parts". I will go with the best option for price and appearance, the car is going to be mildly modified anyway.
Thanks in advance.
I have the mechanicals pretty well straight from what I can tell, so I figure next on the list is paint. While I am considering color options, I need to know what to do about the targa top.
The top is a bluish clear glass/plastic. It's not cracked deep or broken anywhere. But the sun/weather has caused fine spider cracking across the whole thing. It looks normal from outside, but looks really crappy when inside, like broken safety glass (like if you've ever seen a broken side glass with window tint still holding it together).
My question for now...is this something that can be prepped and painted over successfully? If not, what are my options for obtaining a painted/paintable targa section? I see there are glass/acrylic replicas on ebay for upwards of 600 bucks...I really dont care to have a glass top, and would just as well paint over it and put a thin headliner trim piece inside and leave it alone.
I'm not a purist and have no interest in "keeping the car original" or using "original spec parts". I will go with the best option for price and appearance, the car is going to be mildly modified anyway.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Advanced
#3
Burning Brakes
Spider Cracks Are Pretty Common For These Tops.........
I'm really fortunate, in that the glass tops on both my old 1987 Coupe and my current 1995 Coupe both are in good shape. Your best bet might be either getting the top rebuilt or finding a used top in good condition. There are ads for used tops that pop up on this forum fairly often. Just be sure of condition and check the weather stripping carefully before buying. If possible, buy the top from someone nearby. Otherwise it should be crated by a professional if you are getting a top shipped from somewhere outside your area. Good luck!
#4
Le Mans Master
MY 87 a got smoked glass top,but its broken and i bought a nice solid one from RedlineCorvettes (Pat Rothnie)
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
#5
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
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The top is a bluish clear glass/plastic. It's not cracked deep or broken anywhere. But the sun/weather has caused fine spider cracking across the whole thing. It looks normal from outside, but looks really crappy when inside, like broken safety glass (like if you've ever seen a broken side glass with window tint still holding it together).
Anyway, as far as repainting the car, you can spend anywhere from a few hundred dollars (MAACO) to thousands. Be aware that not every body shop knows how to paint these cars and some may give a high price just to discourage you. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1969890
If you're not looking for a show quality job repainting the original color is usually cheapest because there's less prep work, especially in the hard to get at places (door jambs for example). You can also save a lot by doing the prep yourself, although some shops don't want that either because the prep work affects the final job. Check with a local Corvette club for suggested shpos.
Last edited by jrzvette; 03-21-2008 at 09:59 PM.
#6
Buyer Beware
MY 87 a got smoked glass top,but its broken and i bought a nice solid one from RedlineCorvettes (Pat Rothnie)
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
I "puchased" a headlight assembly from Pat Rothnie on ebay. I paid for it on April 9 and still haven't received anything.
The last e-mail I got was on May 30:
Hi Daniel, the car with replacement lights is running very late but should be here after this weekend, if you would rather have me credit the account I understand, I will be shipping unit 2 day mail next week. Thanks Pat
Since then I've sent him a few e-mails requesting my money returned and also have dailed his telephone number a couple of times. I can't get any response.
Do any of you guys know Pat Rothnie, and think you can get him to return my $200.00?
#7
Redline corvette parts out of business.
MY 87 a got smoked glass top,but its broken and i bought a nice solid one from RedlineCorvettes (Pat Rothnie)
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
ask him for a brand new-like top
Hope it helps!
Check Redline Corvette Parts 1777 Woodlawn G-4 Upland, CA 91786 Office: 909 946-5928 Redliner50@hotmail.com
He is a cool guy !
Pat Rothnie/Redline Corvette Parts may be a cool guy, but he closed up shop owing me $2800. So, i would disagree with that assessment. Beware of him and this company. If anyone knows how I can find him, I would appreciate the tip. That address in Upland ,CA is now an empty warehouse.
#8
Pat Rothnie is out of business
BUYER BEWARE!
I "puchased" a headlight assembly from Pat Rothnie on ebay. I paid for it on April 9 and still haven't received anything.
The last e-mail I got was on May 30:
At that time I told him I'd rather have the part.
Since then I've sent him a few e-mails requesting my money returned and also have dailed his telephone number a couple of times. I can't get any response.
Do any of you guys know Pat Rothnie, and think you can get him to return my $200.00?
I "puchased" a headlight assembly from Pat Rothnie on ebay. I paid for it on April 9 and still haven't received anything.
The last e-mail I got was on May 30:
At that time I told him I'd rather have the part.
Since then I've sent him a few e-mails requesting my money returned and also have dailed his telephone number a couple of times. I can't get any response.
Do any of you guys know Pat Rothnie, and think you can get him to return my $200.00?
Good luck. He owes me $2800 and I can't find him. His warehouse is closed up and his cell phone voicemail is full. No way of getting ahold of him. If anyone hears from him, I would appreciate knowing how to contact him.
#9
#12
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Location: Central Zoo Jersey
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Paint Acrylic Top
Read your thread and feel confident painting a targa top. My question is what to use and how to repair cracks in the acrylic. The previous owner over tightened the front bolts and of course we now have cracks. These are not bad and no leaks, but none the less they have to be repaired prior to paint. Thanks, Dave in Zoo Jersey
#13
Melting Slicks
There are a few places that will redo your top and it is not that bad. I am not sure about the rules on listing other sites on here but if you want I can Email some of the sites I have been looking at. I have a solid top. When some things change I will be getting a glass top.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I had my paint guy paint the top when he painted the car. He said the acrylic was "thirsty" and he sprayed it three times but it still came out looking dull, he said that was because it was absorbing the paint each time. I left it on the car while I was completing the interior restoration. When I was ready to drive it, I discovered that the top lense had separated from the frame at the front and was letting air in/lifting up at speed, so I sent it off to Melrose for a new acrylic glass lense to be installed on my original frame which cost me about $650. I'm much happier with it now.
#16
Burning Brakes
I had my paint guy paint the top when he painted the car. He said the acrylic was "thirsty" and he sprayed it three times but it still came out looking dull, he said that was because it was absorbing the paint each time. I left it on the car while I was completing the interior restoration. When I was ready to drive it, I discovered that the top lense had separated from the frame at the front and was letting air in/lifting up at speed, so I sent it off to Melrose for a new acrylic glass lense to be installed on my original frame which cost me about $650. I'm much happier with it now.
The acrylic tops do dry out bad after they loose their gloss. But if prepared correctly they can be painted or even clear coated to look new again. To paint one all you need to do is sand it past the damage, prime it and paint it. If your paint guy was having issues with it wicking paint then he prob just sprayed paint directly on it or if he did use a primer he sanded it too far. A 2K primer will seal an acrylic top no matter how dried out it is.
If you want to keep the top clear, You can take a few extra=tra steps and clear coat it. You got to sand it with a orbital sander with 320g until you remove all the damage. Then you got to wet sand it by hand, and sand in one direction. Starting with P400 and finish with P800. Then spray two coats of clear coat and bake it at 275* for 15 mins, or wait 24 hours. Then wet sand it again. Start with P400 again until the clear coat is smooth. If you cut through the clear coat you got to start over. Finish with p800 (remember to sand in one single direction!) After your done with the 800 grit inspect the top and make sure all blemishes are removed and that you did not sand through the clear. If it looks good, clean it and spray 3 to 4 coats of clear. spray one light coat and two or three heavy wet coats until covered (you want it thick).
After it has cured (usualy 24hours) Use an orbital sander and a soft interface pad with the 3M trizat P1500 & P2000 sanding disc's to prepare for it polishing. Use a squirt bottle with watter to keep the surface wet and sand until all imperfections are removed. Then polish like you would a normal car. I recommend foam pads over wool because they will make less swirls in the top.
If done correctly your top should look like a new one. It will perfectly transparent like the original except it will last longer. The only maintenance it will need will be wax, Just wax it once every 6 months and keep cleaners like windex off of it.
Last edited by lushdrunk; 06-23-2010 at 11:23 PM.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
I know you have already found a solution for your top but I figured I would add this for the people looking for answers.
The acrylic tops do dry out bad after they loose their gloss. But if prepared correctly they can be painted or even clear coated to look new again. To paint one all you need to do is sand it past the damage, prime it and paint it. If your paint guy was having issues with it wicking paint then he prob just sprayed paint directly on it or if he did use a primer he sanded it too far. A 2K primer will seal an acrylic top no matter how dried out it is.
If you want to keep the top clear, You can take a few extra=tra steps and clear coat it. You got to sand it with a orbital sander with 320g until you remove all the damage. Then you got to wet sand it by hand, and sand in one direction. Starting with P400 and finish with P800. Then spray two coats of clear coat and bake it at 275* for 15 mins, or wait 24 hours. Then wet sand it again. Start with P400 again until the clear coat is smooth. If you cut through the clear coat you got to start over. Finish with p800 (remember to sand in one single direction!) After your done with the 800 grit inspect the top and make sure all blemishes are removed and that you did not sand through the clear. If it looks good, clean it and spray 3 to 4 coats of clear. spray one light coat and two or three heavy wet coats until covered (you want it thick).
After it has cured (usualy 24hours) Use an orbital sander and a soft interface pad with the 3M trizat P1500 & P2000 sanding disc's to prepare for it polishing. Use a squirt bottle with watter to keep the surface wet and sand until all imperfections are removed. Then polish like you would a normal car. I recommend foam pads over wool because they will make less swirls in the top.
If done correctly your top should look like a new one. It will perfectly transparent like the original except it will last longer. The only maintenance it will need will be wax, Just wax it once every 6 months and keep cleaners like windex off of it.
The acrylic tops do dry out bad after they loose their gloss. But if prepared correctly they can be painted or even clear coated to look new again. To paint one all you need to do is sand it past the damage, prime it and paint it. If your paint guy was having issues with it wicking paint then he prob just sprayed paint directly on it or if he did use a primer he sanded it too far. A 2K primer will seal an acrylic top no matter how dried out it is.
If you want to keep the top clear, You can take a few extra=tra steps and clear coat it. You got to sand it with a orbital sander with 320g until you remove all the damage. Then you got to wet sand it by hand, and sand in one direction. Starting with P400 and finish with P800. Then spray two coats of clear coat and bake it at 275* for 15 mins, or wait 24 hours. Then wet sand it again. Start with P400 again until the clear coat is smooth. If you cut through the clear coat you got to start over. Finish with p800 (remember to sand in one single direction!) After your done with the 800 grit inspect the top and make sure all blemishes are removed and that you did not sand through the clear. If it looks good, clean it and spray 3 to 4 coats of clear. spray one light coat and two or three heavy wet coats until covered (you want it thick).
After it has cured (usualy 24hours) Use an orbital sander and a soft interface pad with the 3M trizat P1500 & P2000 sanding disc's to prepare for it polishing. Use a squirt bottle with watter to keep the surface wet and sand until all imperfections are removed. Then polish like you would a normal car. I recommend foam pads over wool because they will make less swirls in the top.
If done correctly your top should look like a new one. It will perfectly transparent like the original except it will last longer. The only maintenance it will need will be wax, Just wax it once every 6 months and keep cleaners like windex off of it.
#18
Burning Brakes
Good info. Yeah, I'm convinced my paint guy cuts some corners when prep and finishing are concerned, but he does fairly solid work most of the time for a very reasonable price with pretty quick turnaround usually. But I still don't really trust him or his work and paint/body is one of the last things on a car that I cant/havent done myself but want to learn to do.
I first got interested in refinishing tops when I bought my 91. I picked up a bad sun damaged top off ebay that was said to be "slightly used".
I destroyed that top and had to paint it the body color. I wet sanded it and tried to polish it with some professional headlight/lens compound. All that did was distort the clear parts and soak into the acrylic. causing a white residue to not go away. It wasn't until I found an on line tech article that gave me the idea on clear coating them. SO I cant take the credit on this one. I wish I had a link to the tech ad so I can give credit where it is due. But I can't find one.
Also I need to add that if you can't do this yourself then it will be cheaper, and be better quality to buy a replacement. I don't know what a body shop would charge to refinish a top like I do, but I do know it takes a lot of man hours and materials to complete. I would guess it would be around $500 to $800.
EDIT: If you want to learn about automotive painting I will be happy to let you bounce some questions off me, and share some general info. I have a 10 page technique and material selection ruff draft wrote up that describes the types of paint, brands, and their uses. As well as spray techniques, Gun selections, equipment selection and maintenance and SMC fiberglass info. I could send it to you if you like. Although it is very out of order and like my posts has some grammar issues. It is just a very small section of a large "how to paint a c4" article I'm working on. That should be done by the end of summer.
Last edited by lushdrunk; 06-24-2010 at 02:17 AM.
#19
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: New Tazewell Tennessee
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A local...
Hey all, I am a new member here. I recently "inherited" my dad's 85 coupe...he bought a c5 and let the c4 sit for several years, so it is now my resto project. It needs paint, interior, weatherstrip, glass, etc.
I have the mechanicals pretty well straight from what I can tell, so I figure next on the list is paint. While I am considering color options, I need to know what to do about the targa top.
The top is a bluish clear glass/plastic. It's not cracked deep or broken anywhere. But the sun/weather has caused fine spider cracking across the whole thing. It looks normal from outside, but looks really crappy when inside, like broken safety glass (like if you've ever seen a broken side glass with window tint still holding it together).
My question for now...is this something that can be prepped and painted over successfully? If not, what are my options for obtaining a painted/paintable targa section? I see there are glass/acrylic replicas on ebay for upwards of 600 bucks...I really dont care to have a glass top, and would just as well paint over it and put a thin headliner trim piece inside and leave it alone.
I'm not a purist and have no interest in "keeping the car original" or using "original spec parts". I will go with the best option for price and appearance, the car is going to be mildly modified anyway.
Thanks in advance.
I have the mechanicals pretty well straight from what I can tell, so I figure next on the list is paint. While I am considering color options, I need to know what to do about the targa top.
The top is a bluish clear glass/plastic. It's not cracked deep or broken anywhere. But the sun/weather has caused fine spider cracking across the whole thing. It looks normal from outside, but looks really crappy when inside, like broken safety glass (like if you've ever seen a broken side glass with window tint still holding it together).
My question for now...is this something that can be prepped and painted over successfully? If not, what are my options for obtaining a painted/paintable targa section? I see there are glass/acrylic replicas on ebay for upwards of 600 bucks...I really dont care to have a glass top, and would just as well paint over it and put a thin headliner trim piece inside and leave it alone.
I'm not a purist and have no interest in "keeping the car original" or using "original spec parts". I will go with the best option for price and appearance, the car is going to be mildly modified anyway.
Thanks in advance.
#20
Cruising
Member Since: Aug 2010
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Targa top repair
There are a few places that will redo your top and it is not that bad. I am not sure about the rules on listing other sites on here but if you want I can Email some of the sites I have been looking at. I have a solid top. When some things change I will be getting a glass top.
Thanks, Jeff
Email: jsullivan59@live.com