Polishing Acrylic Top and Spraying New Clearcoat - anyone?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Polishing Acrylic Top and Spraying New Clearcoat - anyone?
I did a search, and there must be a hundred threads on stripping the old faded and dull clearcoat off the acrylic top. Most go through a 600 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit sanding and then buffing it out.
However, I haven't found any where someone sprayed new clearcoat on after the sanding and polishing.
It seems like all agree that sanding and polishing does well, but then maintenance is a bit higher to keep it nice. So why not after getting it clear again doesn't anyone just spray a new clear coat on it?
However, I haven't found any where someone sprayed new clearcoat on after the sanding and polishing.
It seems like all agree that sanding and polishing does well, but then maintenance is a bit higher to keep it nice. So why not after getting it clear again doesn't anyone just spray a new clear coat on it?
#3
Safety Car
My targa top was crazed. This spring I wet sanded using 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000. Then machine polish with Mequires PlasticX, then painstakingly hand polished with the Mequires PlasticX. I am going to use their Swirl Remover after I go to the track to clean it up some more.
A lot of work, but it turned out 100% better. Now it does not look like a new one. I have some spider cracking you can see from the inside and a few bigger scratches, but the overall effect it is very very nice. Even in direct sunlight, it has a nice even dark tint to it that reflects nicely.
I just treat it like I do the paint. Keep it dusted with my California Duster and spray on my Showroom Shine spray wax and wipe with microfiber often. If I ever get some scratches in it, I can just polish them out.
In fact it looks better than my paint. Which I have yet to have buffed but it is not horrible.
I would not clear it again because polishing it could be more difficult and it could peel leaving you where you started. I do not see any additional "maintenance" with the un coated top.
A lot of work, but it turned out 100% better. Now it does not look like a new one. I have some spider cracking you can see from the inside and a few bigger scratches, but the overall effect it is very very nice. Even in direct sunlight, it has a nice even dark tint to it that reflects nicely.
I just treat it like I do the paint. Keep it dusted with my California Duster and spray on my Showroom Shine spray wax and wipe with microfiber often. If I ever get some scratches in it, I can just polish them out.
In fact it looks better than my paint. Which I have yet to have buffed but it is not horrible.
I would not clear it again because polishing it could be more difficult and it could peel leaving you where you started. I do not see any additional "maintenance" with the un coated top.
#4
I did a search, and there must be a hundred threads on stripping the old faded and dull clearcoat off the acrylic top. Most go through a 600 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit sanding and then buffing it out.
However, I haven't found any where someone sprayed new clearcoat on after the sanding and polishing.
It seems like all agree that sanding and polishing does well, but then maintenance is a bit higher to keep it nice. So why not after getting it clear again doesn't anyone just spray a new clear coat on it?
However, I haven't found any where someone sprayed new clearcoat on after the sanding and polishing.
It seems like all agree that sanding and polishing does well, but then maintenance is a bit higher to keep it nice. So why not after getting it clear again doesn't anyone just spray a new clear coat on it?
I did a top several years ago with Sikkens acrylic/urethane but it's spent the last 6 years in the basement. It's never been on a car. I really don't care for the transparent tops and it just sits. I've often thought about a sale, just haven't been motivated!
I believe my top was done in 600 wet for the prep. The clear was polished afterwards
I've done acrylic headlamps with the same procedure and they've done well. No sand and polish just sand and clear with a quality automotive clear. The materials for the clear coat are expensive.
If you've an acquaintance that paints you would want to have it prepped and then have them clear it when they do the clear on the production repair of whatever!
I'd ask the painter how he would like it prepped!
I don't believe a DIY would be a fix but then again maybe "why not"!
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'm looking at a '94, and the top has dulled to where it looks like wax paper.
After seeing so many here sand and polish, only to have to keep at it with the polishing, I though maybe spraying clear is a good idea. Of course, it would take so little clear, I couldn't buy that at the paint store, so I also thought of catching a body shop that would just shoot clear on it while shooting clear on their main job. Not that I think that would be free, but no one is going to buy a couple of ounces of clear anywhere.
Thanks for all the input.
After seeing so many here sand and polish, only to have to keep at it with the polishing, I though maybe spraying clear is a good idea. Of course, it would take so little clear, I couldn't buy that at the paint store, so I also thought of catching a body shop that would just shoot clear on it while shooting clear on their main job. Not that I think that would be free, but no one is going to buy a couple of ounces of clear anywhere.
Thanks for all the input.
#6
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St. Jude Donor '05
What about polishing it then putting some a clear sheet on with the same materials they use on quarter panels, invisible bra or something like that?
#8
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I clear coated mine, and it came out perfectly. 600 grit wet sanding at get it smooth and remove all surface imperfections, through amount of degreaser to prevent fish eyes from forming, prep for paint then shoot. With a good clear that will lay flat, you won't need to buff, but a quality clear will look good for 15+ years if taken care of
Last edited by mcgilvrey007; 04-12-2011 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Damn you auto correct
#9
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St. Jude Donor '10
Yes, they do clear coat them. A week later, hit it with 2000 wet, then machine Swirl/Haze and then machine Polish.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1565381055-post1.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1565381055-post1.html
#10
Burning Brakes
MIKE...
Say hello to Monica and Jessica ...for me!
Now let me add my 2 cents
I used 2000 grit sand paper to strip the top on my 95 followed by Nexus plastic polish (numbers 3 then 2 ...never needed to use the number 1...
The Nexus was picked up at the local airport when it is used to clean up the windshields on air planes)... did require lots of muscle power and a buffer... but worked just fine.,..
I DID NOT spray clear coat on the surface.... no good reason to do so since the car was normally stored in a garage out of the weather
I just used regular wax on the top a few times a year then used detail spray on it when I cleaned up the the car...
Ran the car that way for 4-5 years and when I sold it the top looked like new...
Bob G.
Say hello to Monica and Jessica ...for me!
Now let me add my 2 cents
I used 2000 grit sand paper to strip the top on my 95 followed by Nexus plastic polish (numbers 3 then 2 ...never needed to use the number 1...
The Nexus was picked up at the local airport when it is used to clean up the windshields on air planes)... did require lots of muscle power and a buffer... but worked just fine.,..
I DID NOT spray clear coat on the surface.... no good reason to do so since the car was normally stored in a garage out of the weather
I just used regular wax on the top a few times a year then used detail spray on it when I cleaned up the the car...
Ran the car that way for 4-5 years and when I sold it the top looked like new...
Bob G.