hypntyz

East Tn.

Since you seem to know a lot about these, maybe you can help me source an appropriate:

clutch
flywheel
slave cylinder
trans (with bellhousing)

Will an AT LS starter work with these t56 trans' or do they have a different one? I assume they are the same.

Maybe we can work something out, pm me. IF not on this particular trans, maybe on one in the future.

From what I had read, it looked like the LS Fbody t56 was the closest thing to utilize in my swap, followed by maybe a GTO t56. I have no knowledge of an SSR trans.

Now I hear people telling me about a 6060 (or something like that) 6sp trans from the new camaros, and that's what I should look to buy. But they seem more expensive (closer to $2500+).

I've bought the following parts from a guy who had an LS t56 in a c4 that was a road course car that he is changing the set up on:

motor mount adapters
t56 trans mount adapter
modified/slotted cbeam
custom driveshaft

I also have a D44 rear end to go into the car, and a set of brake and clutch pedals. So I think with the trans/clutch/flywheel/slave cyl, and then if I buy a new master cyl and make the lines in between, I should be pretty set...other than details like the shifter, engine wiring, pcm tune, fuel pump, etc. that are easy enough to resolve.

85MikeTPI

Send me a PM about the trans if interested.

The TR6060's require a bit of work, either converting them to slip yokes or getting expensive driveline adapters.

Best bang-for-buck clutch/fw is to get a stock LS7 kit.

Slave cyl, get one from Autozone. (Not the "Perfection" brand)

Starters are mostly the same, but some have issues with specific bellhousings (GTO as an example). Just have to do your homework.

dclafleur

If I can finish my T56 swap and feel comfortable with my mechanical skills I might start getting a parts list together for an ls swap next.

Sparkytfl

I work at a junkyard, and as soon as we get in something with an LQ9 or at least LQ4, I'll be buying that to put in mine. We dont get a lot of heavy trucks/vans in though, mostly 2000ish grand ams and tauruses and crap. The only LS we have is a 4.8L. Heck, we dont even have much SBC, and not a single 700r4. I might have to work with the boss to track down a wrecked truck/van. 345hp/380lbft in stock form sounds nice. I figure I'll do the upgrade before I spend any money on heads/headers/intake/etc on my L98.

I do need to start researching on the drive by wire vs throttle cable. Are there ways to use either one? Is one easier than the other? I have to use whatever the ECM calls for right? I guess vans had cable and trucks had electronic.

It's good to see that there's a way to keep the cruise control. I have a long drive and it's a big selling point.

3D87C4

There are several LS swap books that discuss engine selection, drive by wire versus cable, etc. you might want to get. None of them discuss Corvettes, though.

Here are the ones I bought:

GM LS-Series Engines: The Complete Swap Manual (Motorbooks Workshop), Joseph Potak

Chevy LS Engine Conversion Handbook HP1566, Shawn Henderson

How to Swap GM LS-Series Engines into Almost Anything (S-A Design), Jefferson Bryant

ch@0s

I chose to go with cable because of simplicity. If you do go with drive by wire make sure you get the pedal and PCM from the donor as well.

ch@0s

This is one of the cheapest parts I have ordered but it's probably one of the coolest.

3D87C4

I was looking at LS3 badges on Amazon but they can be expensive & I'm still on the fence how much I want this to show.

As for pedals, pcm, etc., keep in mind the ls setups used to use a TAC module for cruise so grab that too.

Sparkytfl

B-o-o-k-s? What's that? Haha actually the SA Design book on rebuilding the sbc has been one of the most useful I've ever bought, so maybe I'll check out that LS one, along with the others, thanks.

I may just be paranoid, but I'd trust cable more than dbw. Dont want any of that toyota-style unintented acceleration if a pedal sensor goes bad.

cttech455

What donor engine your using may have an influence on your decision to use a cable throttle body or a drive by wire. Camaros and firebirds used a cable setup. Corvettes were drive by wire. The engine I used for my swap came from a 2003 corvette. It was shipped to me with the stock throttle body equipped for drive by wire so I decided to utilize it in my swap. I sourced a used pedal from a 1997-2004 corvette which replaced the stock pedal in my 1985 corvette. This worked out well because the stock pedal was extremely poorly made and wobbly. I then had to find a TAC module from a 1997-2004 corvette. This proved difficult. Not sure if things have changed as of this time, but last spring, summer these were not easy to get. Apparently GM burned their venders during the big bailout thing and the GM parts people at the dealerships claim they are no longer able to get these as a result. Remember a manufacturer only is obligated to provide these parts for 7 years after the last of the model that used it sells, in this case 2004. None of the corvette salvage places I contacted on this forum could get one. I finally was able to get one, but at a much higher price than they went for just a year or two earlier. The drive by wire is very simple, just a matter of plugging things in and makes cruise control especially easy. There is nothing wrong with the toyota setups either. Every incident is caused by one of three things-floor mats bunched up under the pedal, driver error, or rarely a sticking pedal.

eilax053

heres mine... not done due to college taking over my life

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...wap-build.html

ch@0s

So here is the Ugly question that plagues us all. My PCM is at the Tuners right now. Has anyone used the LT1 style 96 VSS with the LS1 PCM successfully and what settings did you have to change in the tune?

cttech455

I am using the 96 vss with mine (40 tooth relucter ring) with the stock pcm from a 2003 z06. My tuner was able to change the settings of the pcm from that calibrated to run a manual to run my 4l60e, and took into effect my 3:75 to 1 rear end gear. Didn't seem like a big deal to him. I sent my PCM to frost from ls1tech

miker2

how do you like the 3:75 gears ?

cttech455

I don't have much before information to go by. When I bought the car it had a stock l98 with the stock 4+3 and 3..07 to one rear end gears. All I did was limp it home to my house. The next time I drove it was this past fall, when it had the ls6 engine, 4l60e, and 3.75 to one ring and pinion. It does put you back in the seat now, I bet the gears help with that.

ch@0s

He knows the Pulse Per Minute neds to be adjusted to 4K. What do the output to the Tach, speedo and BCM need to be? It looks like you went with aftermarket gauges so that didn't effect you. I'm thinking all I need is a Dakota Digital box.

cttech455

You are right. The LS engines put out a 4 cylinder tach signal. With my autometer tach, there is a switch on the back for 4, 6, or 8 cylinders so its very easy to calibrate the tach for the signal. On the autometer speedometer all I have to do is drive exactly two miles. After that it will measure how many pulses it reads in two miles. From there it is calibrated to my car, no matter what the rear tire size, rear gear, or relucter ring. The stock tach and speedometer dosn't offer this and from what I understand people are using the dakota digital devices you mentioned. (sgi-8 for the tach and sgi-5 for speedometer) I used this link when I researched my swap. You've probably seen it but just in case I will post it-
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...nan85Part2.pdf
I haven't heard of any software that could modify the output signal coming out of your pcm to be compatible with the stock gauges. From the swaps I've seen people are using the dakota digital boxes.

Sparkytfl

That's a point in favor of dbw that I forgot about. I wouldnt call my pedal wobbly, but I do hate it. Takes about three times the force to push the pedal as it does on my "normal"/winter car. I've got a toe that I stubbed hard enough to probably break years ago and driving this car makes it hurt bad by the end of summer. My cruise control gets a lot of use.

Thanks for offering so much insight in this thread.

cttech455

Originally when I wired up from the vss to the pcm and speedometer, I teed off the signal wire and ran one wire to the input on the PCM and the other to the input on the speedometer. This was a mistake that I and others have made. The PCM does not like to share the signal. The speedometer was drawing enought current that the PCM wasn't reading anything. It was as if I did not have the vss hooked up at all. The right way to do it is to go from the vss directly to the PCM and then utilize the output on the pcm (pin #50 on the red connecter) to feed the input on the speedometer. This mistake was the result of bad information I got stating the autometer speedometer could not read the signal that the ls computer put out and I would have to go from the vss to the speedometer directly. This turned out to be false.

cttech455

My pedal was real loose. I could move it from side to side quite a bit but it wasn't binding at all. I wonder if the difficulty pushing the pedal might be the result of some seizing at the throttle body (which will be replaced anyways) or with the cable? I didn't drive the car more than the time to get it home from the guy I bought it from in the stock form, but I remember the throttle pedal didn't feel right, it was diffcult to push, modulate as I tried to shift through the manual transmission. In fact, despite driving 1000s of manual transmission cars from years as a technician and valet work at the airport, driving this car was reminicent of the very first time I ever drove a manuel in my life.