Mushy Brakes
#1
Mushy Brakes
I purchased a 96 Vette in October, 2011 from the original owner. It had 18,970 miles and was garage kept. When I first drove the car, the brakes went almost to the floor when I applied them. I took the car to a Chevy dealership and had the brake fluid changed, new brake pads nstalled and the rotors turned. This helped just a bit but the brakes still felt mushy. I took it back to the dealer who stated it must be the master brake cylinder so I had a new one put in. Again, this helped a little but the brakes still weren't working as I believe they should. Next step was to replace the rubber brake lines. This helped a little more but they still seem to go further down then they should. The dealership assured me that the booster was functioning correctly and there was nothing else they could do. The brakes have been bled 4 times since October. If you double pump the brakes they feel very firm and Ihave no problem stopping quickly, which I feel should be the way they are the first time you apply them. Is this a common problem on the 96 and does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might try next? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Race Director
If you double pump the brakes they feel very firm and Ihave no problem stopping quickly, which I feel should be the way they are the first time you apply them. Is this a common problem on the 96 and does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might try next? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
And no it is not a common problem with the '96.
Brake fluid will not compress under normal conditions.
Possibilities:
1. Still have air in the system (air will compress)
2. Master cylinder not sealing (allowing fluid to seep past plunger)
3. You have a leak somewhere (allowing fluid to leak out)
All of those will cause the pedel to travel farther than it should.
It is also possible the air is trapped somewhere in the ABS unit, which is not so easy to bleed. I think you need a GM Tech tool to operate the solenoid valves.
#4
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The C4 brakes are average in my book. The J55 brakes on the 96 are good for street driven Vettes, but you should have brakes good enough to brake from 60-0 within 130-140 feet. You mentioned about taking the Vette to the dealer and I bet they charged you at least $300 for the work you mentioned. I would take it back and demand for them to fix the problem and meet your demands.
#5
Race Director
You had a new master cylinder installed. The replacement might be defective. Pumping the brakes a second time points back to the master cylinder.
#6
Melting Slicks
I have found the stock brakes and pads on my 84 are average to other cars of the same vintage. I think that was one of the weak points on the car when new and still today. I think upgrades are needed to get the car to stop better. My car sits for long periods of time(weeks) and when first start tghe car and drive the first stop has a low pedal but stop fine after. I dont think I have a master cylinder problem as the brake warning light should come on when such a situation exists. I do plan to upgrade the system in the future because the car in stock form IMO does not stop like a all wheel disc brake sports car should.
#7
Race Director
I have found the stock brakes and pads on my 84 are average to other cars of the same vintage. I think that was one of the weak points on the car when new and still today. I think upgrades are needed to get the car to stop better. My car sits for long periods of time(weeks) and when first start tghe car and drive the first stop has a low pedal but stop fine after. I dont think I have a master cylinder problem as the brake warning light should come on when such a situation exists. I do plan to upgrade the system in the future because the car in stock form IMO does not stop like a all wheel disc brake sports car should.
His car has the J55 13" front brakes.
When they are working properly, they do a very good job of stopping the car for normal everyday driving.
It is only when you begin using them on a track where they become weak.
Right off the showroom floor, your '84 would stop just as good or better than any other car on the road at the time.
#8
Racer
I have found the stock brakes and pads on my 84 are average to other cars of the same vintage. I think that was one of the weak points on the car when new and still today. I think upgrades are needed to get the car to stop better. My car sits for long periods of time(weeks) and when first start tghe car and drive the first stop has a low pedal but stop fine after. I dont think I have a master cylinder problem as the brake warning light should come on when such a situation exists. I do plan to upgrade the system in the future because the car in stock form IMO does not stop like a all wheel disc brake sports car should.
#9
Racer
the 84's are here;i also have an 84,first off it sets for months at a time,and the brake peddle is the same at first push to last. hard and firm. yes the brakes on a 84 do lock up.just proved it the other day when a farm tractor pulled out in front of me. if your peddle is soft at first pump, try bleeding . the brakes on this 84 are great all stock. took of the 16's and put on 17's. tire to ground foot print is the same,so 17's don't make a diff. just my 2 cents.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '05
had the same problem with a 90z. Replaced everthing still had a spongy pedal.
Finally put on a stock type Bendix pad and put some speedbleeders from Summit in then bled them real real good myself. Stopped fine after that. Not as good as the base 89 brakes did.
Suspect the calipers may have been "spread" due to many top speed runs age heat etc seems to do them in.
Drove me nuts!
Finally put on a stock type Bendix pad and put some speedbleeders from Summit in then bled them real real good myself. Stopped fine after that. Not as good as the base 89 brakes did.
Suspect the calipers may have been "spread" due to many top speed runs age heat etc seems to do them in.
Drove me nuts!