JW Speaker headlights.
#21
Instructor
From everything I looked at:
LED's : JW Speaker and Trucklites.
HID's (the right, non blinding way, but still not legal if the police decides to check and give you a ticket) retrofitting bi-xenon prijectors into a 6054 housing. Easier said than done, as it is a bit involved; and ready made retrofits are also kind of expensive and could require modification of the headlight bucket.
HID's ( the easy way ) dropping HID bulbs into H$ ready 6054 housings (best are the Cibie's and Hella E-code. These are also not road legal, and couldget you a ticket if the cops decide to throw the book at you.
H4 6054 housings with H4 high output bulbs. This is probably the best option to remain legal and improve your night visibility, all within a reasonable budget. Best housings again are the same Hella E code and Cibie. Some people use up to 100 watt bulbs with stock wiring with no issues.
HID in the fog lights. Many people have installed HID kits in their fog ligh housings, with excellent light output and low enough that it does not cause too much glare for oncoming traffic.
Prices vary, from the JW Speaker for around 550 each (a lot cheaper can be found if you shop with patience) Trucklites for around 250 each, HID kits vary in price and most say that you get what you pay for. Hella E codes are around 100 to 120 for the pair, and Cibie's are pretty scarce but go for about 250 per pair.
H4 bulbes range from around 11 each to 40 dollars depending on output and brand.
I chose the JW speakers because I wanted to remain legal and not have any isues with a retrofit; did not want any permanent pods in the headlight buckets, and wanted lights that would be 100 per cent drop in.I made an offer on flebay for 240 per light and it was accepted. That price put me around the ball park figure of a good HID projector retrofit with bi-xenons.
That's my story, and I am sticking to it....
LED's : JW Speaker and Trucklites.
HID's (the right, non blinding way, but still not legal if the police decides to check and give you a ticket) retrofitting bi-xenon prijectors into a 6054 housing. Easier said than done, as it is a bit involved; and ready made retrofits are also kind of expensive and could require modification of the headlight bucket.
HID's ( the easy way ) dropping HID bulbs into H$ ready 6054 housings (best are the Cibie's and Hella E-code. These are also not road legal, and couldget you a ticket if the cops decide to throw the book at you.
H4 6054 housings with H4 high output bulbs. This is probably the best option to remain legal and improve your night visibility, all within a reasonable budget. Best housings again are the same Hella E code and Cibie. Some people use up to 100 watt bulbs with stock wiring with no issues.
HID in the fog lights. Many people have installed HID kits in their fog ligh housings, with excellent light output and low enough that it does not cause too much glare for oncoming traffic.
Prices vary, from the JW Speaker for around 550 each (a lot cheaper can be found if you shop with patience) Trucklites for around 250 each, HID kits vary in price and most say that you get what you pay for. Hella E codes are around 100 to 120 for the pair, and Cibie's are pretty scarce but go for about 250 per pair.
H4 bulbes range from around 11 each to 40 dollars depending on output and brand.
I chose the JW speakers because I wanted to remain legal and not have any isues with a retrofit; did not want any permanent pods in the headlight buckets, and wanted lights that would be 100 per cent drop in.I made an offer on flebay for 240 per light and it was accepted. That price put me around the ball park figure of a good HID projector retrofit with bi-xenons.
That's my story, and I am sticking to it....
Thanks, this is perfect. Options and coast in one spot...
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
As promised, here is an update on my new headlights.
It was actually a good idea to get the hedlight motor rebuild kits and do both of them since the new headlights are probably double the weight or maybe a bit more.
I have so far rebuilt the left side and intalled one JW Speaker and did not do the right yet for the sake of comparison.
Rebuilding the motor gear took about 30 minutes from start to finish, and replacing the headlight another 5 minutes, easier since it was outside of the car.
Thedifference is already like night and day... (pun intended)
I got some pics during the evening, and will get a few more tonight just to compare.
Here a few pics and a short video.
The unwrapping:
A few other small goodies that were waiting for me at home.
All that was left in of the bushings was dust. I am amazed that they were still working with no isues.
Fitment in the stock bucket with no modification. Absolute drop in.
I am keeping the original (dated Sep 1992 Silvania Plastic headlights for the sake of originality)
It was actually a good idea to get the hedlight motor rebuild kits and do both of them since the new headlights are probably double the weight or maybe a bit more.
I have so far rebuilt the left side and intalled one JW Speaker and did not do the right yet for the sake of comparison.
Rebuilding the motor gear took about 30 minutes from start to finish, and replacing the headlight another 5 minutes, easier since it was outside of the car.
Thedifference is already like night and day... (pun intended)
I got some pics during the evening, and will get a few more tonight just to compare.
Here a few pics and a short video.
The unwrapping:
A few other small goodies that were waiting for me at home.
All that was left in of the bushings was dust. I am amazed that they were still working with no isues.
Fitment in the stock bucket with no modification. Absolute drop in.
I am keeping the original (dated Sep 1992 Silvania Plastic headlights for the sake of originality)
Last edited by speedycat3; 03-21-2013 at 10:51 PM.
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
A few output (half only since I have just the left side on at this time for comparison) pictures.
Both on, stock 20 year old sylvania on pax side. See how the glare is even more on the Sylvania, even though the light is dimmer.
This is how they look if you are directly in front:
one stock headlight on in low
One stock headlight in high beam
One LED in low beam
One LED in High Beam
One LED and one stock in high beam
One stock against the fence in low beam
One stock in high beam
one LED in low
one LED in high beam
One stock and one LED in low beam
One stock and one LED in High beam
This is definitely the best improvement I have done to my Vette so far. The headlights do not glare
and have an excellent output. Can't wait to get the other one instaled.
Upgrading the fogs to 5k HID wil be necessary now to keep the color temperature equal.
The yellowish fogs just don't cut it now.
My total cost for this headlight hupgrade was $495.00, completely drop in plug and play and no modification required.
Both on, stock 20 year old sylvania on pax side. See how the glare is even more on the Sylvania, even though the light is dimmer.
This is how they look if you are directly in front:
one stock headlight on in low
One stock headlight in high beam
One LED in low beam
One LED in High Beam
One LED and one stock in high beam
One stock against the fence in low beam
One stock in high beam
one LED in low
one LED in high beam
One stock and one LED in low beam
One stock and one LED in High beam
This is definitely the best improvement I have done to my Vette so far. The headlights do not glare
and have an excellent output. Can't wait to get the other one instaled.
Upgrading the fogs to 5k HID wil be necessary now to keep the color temperature equal.
The yellowish fogs just don't cut it now.
My total cost for this headlight hupgrade was $495.00, completely drop in plug and play and no modification required.
Last edited by speedycat3; 04-03-2013 at 10:22 PM.
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Wow, I just completed a short half an hour drive around town and the light output is asolutely phenomenal. Completely on par with good quality factory HID proyectors in my wife's car.
I could not be happier, and will get on the pax side first thing tomorrow.
I could not be happier, and will get on the pax side first thing tomorrow.
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Last edited by speedycat3; 03-21-2013 at 10:56 PM.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
I completed the pax side headlight motor rebuild this morning.
As usual, the second rebuild is easier since I had just done the other side.
I am still amazed that even with the plastic rollers completely disintegrated, both headlights did still work with no issues. I installed the second JW replacement and both headlights have now a smooth output. The metal trim rings lost one tab on each side, so i will have to buy two replacements, and will check on final alignment later on tonight. The color temp seems to be right around 5000 to 6000 degrees. I will be getting matching hid fogs soon, but i am sure that I will not need them at all if the headlights are on. Very happy with results, and happy also that my headlight motor rebuilds both went well with no issues.
As usual, the second rebuild is easier since I had just done the other side.
I am still amazed that even with the plastic rollers completely disintegrated, both headlights did still work with no issues. I installed the second JW replacement and both headlights have now a smooth output. The metal trim rings lost one tab on each side, so i will have to buy two replacements, and will check on final alignment later on tonight. The color temp seems to be right around 5000 to 6000 degrees. I will be getting matching hid fogs soon, but i am sure that I will not need them at all if the headlights are on. Very happy with results, and happy also that my headlight motor rebuilds both went well with no issues.
#30
Pro
Thread Starter
Both headlights instaled, some night shots:
This is low beam:
High Beam
Against the fence
Low beam:
High beam:
High beam from the front. Nice hue.
Low beams from the front
This is low beam:
High Beam
Against the fence
Low beam:
High beam:
High beam from the front. Nice hue.
Low beams from the front
#31
Pro
Thread Starter
I had been meaning to get a few good shots of cut off with the new headlights, and finally remembered to have my camera with me to get them.
What do you think? As far as output, absolutely great; as far as cut off for non glare onto oncoming traffic, they are perfect. I have done quite a bit of driving at night and have not been flashed one either.
Here some pics:
Side cut off:
Low bean, against the wall, roughly about 35 feet.
High Beam, against the wall:
High beam, camera on top of targa top:
Low beam, same location:
What do you think? As far as output, absolutely great; as far as cut off for non glare onto oncoming traffic, they are perfect. I have done quite a bit of driving at night and have not been flashed one either.
Here some pics:
Side cut off:
Low bean, against the wall, roughly about 35 feet.
High Beam, against the wall:
High beam, camera on top of targa top:
Low beam, same location:
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
The night vision is improved tenfold. The looks department gets a lot of praise everywhere now. Aside from getting the typical unsolicited conversation at the gas station now, it is almost instant that someone walks up to me to find out out about the headlights whenever i have them on. The improvement could not have been bigger.
#36
Pro
I just mounted a pair of these in my '89 C4 and I can't seem to get my front bumper fog lights to work w/them??
Very strange...... the JW speaker 8900's seem to work fine but when I pull out the headlight switch one position to light just the parking lights they come on like they should. Now when I push in the front bumper driving light rocker switch the front bumper fog lights don't come on like they used too.....instead the headlight buckets flip open & the JW speaker 8900's light up on hi beam??
When I pull out the dash headlight switch all the way to turn on the headlights and the front bumper fog light rocker switch next to it is off the hi & low beams can be operated by the hi-low switch on the left stalk. (As it should)....... BUT when the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on and the dash headlight switch is pulled out all the way now the hi/low switch on the left stalk doesn't work and the front bumper fog light rocker controls the hi/low function on the JW Speaker 8900's. How can that be???
To make it a little more clear.....
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on ~ It controls the hi/low function of the headlights. On hi/Off low
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is off ~ The left steering column stalk controls the hi/low function of the headlights.
The parking lights work fine but the front bumper fog light rocker switch does not turn the front bumper fog lights on or off!
How is this happening? I don't get it!
Very strange...... the JW speaker 8900's seem to work fine but when I pull out the headlight switch one position to light just the parking lights they come on like they should. Now when I push in the front bumper driving light rocker switch the front bumper fog lights don't come on like they used too.....instead the headlight buckets flip open & the JW speaker 8900's light up on hi beam??
When I pull out the dash headlight switch all the way to turn on the headlights and the front bumper fog light rocker switch next to it is off the hi & low beams can be operated by the hi-low switch on the left stalk. (As it should)....... BUT when the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on and the dash headlight switch is pulled out all the way now the hi/low switch on the left stalk doesn't work and the front bumper fog light rocker controls the hi/low function on the JW Speaker 8900's. How can that be???
To make it a little more clear.....
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on ~ It controls the hi/low function of the headlights. On hi/Off low
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is off ~ The left steering column stalk controls the hi/low function of the headlights.
The parking lights work fine but the front bumper fog light rocker switch does not turn the front bumper fog lights on or off!
How is this happening? I don't get it!
Last edited by mako41; 09-13-2014 at 08:28 PM.
#37
Melting Slicks
I just mounted a pair of these in my '89 C4 and I can't seem to get my front bumper fog lights to work w/them??
Very strange...... the JW speaker 8900's seem to work fine but when I pull out the headlight switch one position to light just the parking lights they come on like they should. Now when I push in the front bumper driving light rocker switch the front bumper fog lights don't come on like they used too.....instead the headlight buckets flip open & the JW speaker 8900's light up on hi beam??
When I pull out the dash headlight switch all the way to turn on the headlights and the front bumper fog light rocker switch next to it is off the hi & low beams can be operated by the hi-low switch on the left stalk. (As it should)....... BUT when the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on and the dash headlight switch is pulled out all the way now the hi/low switch on the left stalk doesn't work and the front bumper fog light rocker controls the hi/low function on the JW Speaker 8900's. How can that be???
To make it a little more clear.....
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on ~ It controls the hi/low function of the headlights. On hi/Off low
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is off ~ The left steering column stalk controls the hi/low function of the headlights.
The parking lights work fine but the front bumper fog light rocker switch does not turn the front bumper fog lights on or off!
How is this happening? I don't get it!
Very strange...... the JW speaker 8900's seem to work fine but when I pull out the headlight switch one position to light just the parking lights they come on like they should. Now when I push in the front bumper driving light rocker switch the front bumper fog lights don't come on like they used too.....instead the headlight buckets flip open & the JW speaker 8900's light up on hi beam??
When I pull out the dash headlight switch all the way to turn on the headlights and the front bumper fog light rocker switch next to it is off the hi & low beams can be operated by the hi-low switch on the left stalk. (As it should)....... BUT when the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on and the dash headlight switch is pulled out all the way now the hi/low switch on the left stalk doesn't work and the front bumper fog light rocker controls the hi/low function on the JW Speaker 8900's. How can that be???
To make it a little more clear.....
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is on ~ It controls the hi/low function of the headlights. On hi/Off low
When the front bumper fog light rocker switch is off ~ The left steering column stalk controls the hi/low function of the headlights.
The parking lights work fine but the front bumper fog light rocker switch does not turn the front bumper fog lights on or off!
How is this happening? I don't get it!
Or, you can splice a small #197 bulb in the wiring running to your headlights. Some people do this but I feel its kind of hokie...
#38
Pro
Because the factory setup uses the high beam filament as a ground for the fog lamps. So when you use a regular halogen sealed beam unit, or h4 halogen conversion, you retain the feature of the high and low beam filaments. The fog lamps use the high beam filament as a source of ground. Those LED lamps have no filaments, therefore there is no ground source for the fog lamps. If you run a separate relay system for the headlights and get the power directly from the battery, and get the ground directly from the chassis, everything will work as it should, AND it will be safer and provide more juice to your lights.
Not really sure what you mean when you say the hi-beam filament is being used as a ground. Can you explain??
Or, you can splice a small #197 bulb in the wiring running to your headlights. Some people do this but I feel its kind of hokie...
Not really sure what you mean when you say the hi-beam filament is being used as a ground. Can you explain??
Or, you can splice a small #197 bulb in the wiring running to your headlights. Some people do this but I feel its kind of hokie...
Can I just run a ground for the fogs? I know the OEM wiring setup didn't allow the fogs to be on the same time as the hi-beams.
What would be the best way to do that??
Last edited by mako41; 09-15-2014 at 04:05 PM.
#39
Racer
H4's
From everything I looked at:
LED's : JW Speaker and Trucklites.
HID's (the right, non blinding way, but still not legal if the police decides to check and give you a ticket) retrofitting bi-xenon prijectors into a 6054 housing. Easier said than done, as it is a bit involved; and ready made retrofits are also kind of expensive and could require modification of the headlight bucket.
HID's ( the easy way ) dropping HID bulbs into H$ ready 6054 housings (best are the Cibie's and Hella E-code. These are also not road legal, and couldget you a ticket if the cops decide to throw the book at you.
H4 6054 housings with H4 high output bulbs. This is probably the best option to remain legal and improve your night visibility, all within a reasonable budget. Best housings again are the same Hella E code and Cibie. Some people use up to 100 watt bulbs with stock wiring with no issues.
HID in the fog lights. Many people have installed HID kits in their fog ligh housings, with excellent light output and low enough that it does not cause too much glare for oncoming traffic.
Prices vary, from the JW Speaker for around 550 each (a lot cheaper can be found if you shop with patience) Trucklites for around 250 each, HID kits vary in price and most say that you get what you pay for. Hella E codes are around 100 to 120 for the pair, and Cibie's are pretty scarce but go for about 250 per pair.
H4 bulbes range from around 11 each to 40 dollars depending on output and brand.
I chose the JW speakers because I wanted to remain legal and not have any isues with a retrofit; did not want any permanent pods in the headlight buckets, and wanted lights that would be 100 per cent drop in.I made an offer on flebay for 240 per light and it was accepted. That price put me around the ball park figure of a good HID projector retrofit with bi-xenons.
That's my story, and I am sticking to it....
LED's : JW Speaker and Trucklites.
HID's (the right, non blinding way, but still not legal if the police decides to check and give you a ticket) retrofitting bi-xenon prijectors into a 6054 housing. Easier said than done, as it is a bit involved; and ready made retrofits are also kind of expensive and could require modification of the headlight bucket.
HID's ( the easy way ) dropping HID bulbs into H$ ready 6054 housings (best are the Cibie's and Hella E-code. These are also not road legal, and couldget you a ticket if the cops decide to throw the book at you.
H4 6054 housings with H4 high output bulbs. This is probably the best option to remain legal and improve your night visibility, all within a reasonable budget. Best housings again are the same Hella E code and Cibie. Some people use up to 100 watt bulbs with stock wiring with no issues.
HID in the fog lights. Many people have installed HID kits in their fog ligh housings, with excellent light output and low enough that it does not cause too much glare for oncoming traffic.
Prices vary, from the JW Speaker for around 550 each (a lot cheaper can be found if you shop with patience) Trucklites for around 250 each, HID kits vary in price and most say that you get what you pay for. Hella E codes are around 100 to 120 for the pair, and Cibie's are pretty scarce but go for about 250 per pair.
H4 bulbes range from around 11 each to 40 dollars depending on output and brand.
I chose the JW speakers because I wanted to remain legal and not have any isues with a retrofit; did not want any permanent pods in the headlight buckets, and wanted lights that would be 100 per cent drop in.I made an offer on flebay for 240 per light and it was accepted. That price put me around the ball park figure of a good HID projector retrofit with bi-xenons.
That's my story, and I am sticking to it....