kojak

Indeed, it's time, 96k miles without any issues whatsoever; 30 years and a bit of wear takes it toll on any engine, a valve is shot. I have decided to replace the engine, rather than taking it to a re-builder. Now, if I were aware of a reputable builder in the region, I would consider that option.

What are the best sources for a (new) drop in replacement engine, identical to the factory original? I would consider an upgraded variety (increased horsepower) provided it was a drop in replacement using the CFI (factory original).

NOT willing to reinvent the wheel, the goal is to restore factory performance, providing an additional 20 to 30 years and 100k miles of service. Thanks in advance!

cv67

GMPP
Scoggin Dickey
Pace Performance

Lots of nice options for new drop in crate motors with warrantys

DinoBob

There is a thread here involving a recent 84 purchase with a seized engine. He bought a Goodwrench 350, mild build, for $1500 shipped.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...on-please.html

kojak

With all the talent out here, can someone provide a definitive answer whether this engine is a drop in replacement for my 84 Crossfire Injection (CFI) engine, automatic transmission (factory original engine and drivetrain):

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...rentProductId=

I want to re-use all original factory components. Thanks again!

Keystring

Yep. It should bolt right up..


That engine has a 2 piece rear main seal. Same as your '84.

Just swap all your parts from the old engine..

kojak

Good to hear. Other threads comment about using the 86 or later engines, with caveat of course, i.e. 4 piece rear main seal, requiring a different flywheel, etc, etc. Not sure if the expenses involved are worth the effort. The current setup has been flawless, with the exception of a valve being shot. If I'm going to spend $600 on a valve job, I might as well replace the engine with the Jegs deal; without exercising the 3 year/100k mile warranty, their appears to be a reasonable expectation of quality in the build.

89dd

Read Dustyjoe's thread. He's in the middle of the same swap.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...on-please.html

Keystring

The problem with using the L98 is that it has a 1 piece rear main seal and you would need a different flywheel.

The rest would probably bolt up, although I'm not sure if the bolt holes for the brackets would be the same.

The other problem is you would need to update or flash the chip in your old Computer because of the cam differences.

Personally, I would stick with the one you picked out because it would be a hassle free install.

Just keep in mind though, that you won't get 260hp out of that engine because of the CFI's air flow restriction.

Maybe you can find someone to help you port the CFI intake before you reinstall it.

kojak

Hassle free - music to my ears. I'm beyond the point in my life of reinventing the wheel.

DinoBob

I'm curious; why a whole engine swap for a bad valve? Seems to me that you could just pull the heads and get them done.

cv67

If he pays someone to go through 100k mi heads other part labor hes well into the cost of something all new; then hes still got a 100k mi motor. heads by itself may be cheaper now but shoot for not much more to have all new seems money well spent everyone looks at it differently

DinoBob

I would think a well cared for bottom end is half used up at 100k miles. I bet you could find a decent set of heads and pop them on. I don't know...I see sense in both approaches.

kojak

For me, the most tedious part of the job it going to be removing the hood! Arrrrgh!

LastC3AZ

I agree .... with a good crate motor and your current CFI set up you should do just fine .... I would add to make certain you have an 85 fuel pump and 15lbs of pressure, it should deliver all you need for your purposes .... and tho I agree there is restrictions in the intake, there are also quite a bit in the current heads .... the new crate will eliminate that, so you should see some good improvement in performance ... #justmy2cents

nhlighthouse

What timing...I have 105k on my 85 and blew the head gasket and this week actually Tuesday it goes in for an engine swap out. Got a Jasper engine with full engine kit for 2100. IMHO I figured as you did if I just replaced the head gaskets and who knows what else that leads to be replaced which would add to the labor cost also for peace of mind, and we all need that when we are driving this type of vehicle. It would best starting every part being of the same year and not mixing old and new. Mike

kojak

Are you suggesting the existing fuel pump may not be adequate? The entire sending unit/including pump was replaced, oh about 10 years ago, with a new unit.

nhlighthouse

I would hope that the new fuel pump that was sent as part of the engine kit will sure as hell be adequate enough....also I will make sure I remind him about the 15 lbs....( Iam sure he already knows)
Thanks for your input it really informed me of things to look out for.
Mike of Salem NH:
The flaghalfmast:is for the injured & victims of the Boston Marathon Blast Please pray for their recovery.

nhlighthouse

TO: LASTC3AZ,
I would sure hope that the new fuel pump that was sent as part of the engine kit will sure as hell be adequate enough also I will make sure I remind him about the 15 lbs....
Thanks for your input it really informed me of things to look out for.
Mike of Salem NHis for the injured & victims of the Boston Marathon Blast Please pray for their recovery.

Keystring

Not necessary..

Since you don't need to pull the trans, just use a cherry picker from the side.


Remove the bell housing and engine mount bolts and just lift her up enough to clear the motor mounts and move it forward,up and out.

Make sure to remove the distributor cap first though.

kojak

The pump is electric. Maybe I can convert it to 220V AC and get a bit more pressure.