choopes

Details for getting the key lock cylinder out are sketchy in my FSM. I need to get in there to look for broken wire, or a bad switch. Has anyone done this? What is the best process? THANKS

WVZR-1

You unplug the connector under the dash and check for continuity there and using a key you can check the values there. To just check for broken wires there's no need to rip into the column. Run the tilt up/down and check in various inclinations. There's no direct connect switch to the cylinder, just the two wires to the connector for the VATS resistance acknowledgement.

choopes

It's the starter engage that's the problem. I have gone throught the wires from the steering culumn. One by one. There is no wire that becomes hot (12volts) when I turn the key to the start position. Looking at the diagram, it looks to me like the yellow wire should go to 12volts when the key is turned to start. Is this incorrect? All associated fuses check OK. I am thinking broken wire, wires come off, or bad switch. My first post was to ask how to get inside the column to check.

WVZR-1

Ignition switch is not "IN" the column but mounted on the outside of the column. There's a rod that actuates the ignition switch that runs up the column but operation of that can be confirmed from under the dash also. You asked about cylinder removal in your first post and that should NOT be required for the diagnostics that your mentioning.

What year car I don't recall? Section 3F of the FSM should have every image that you need to better help you understand how it's assembled.

choopes

My car in a 1993 coupe. I read about the rod and adjustment proceeedure, and wondered if that could have become misadjusted. Does this rod travel down the column and is the actual switch at the base of the column? Can you describe where the switch is, and how can I get to it? Thanks!

WVZR-1

The white switch on the column in this image is the "dimmer" the ignition switch is on the other side of the column. You can't see it but you should already know it's location I'd think from just feel. There are two rods, one to the "dimmer" in this image the other centered nearly on the column, that one goes to the ignition switch. With your hand on the rod you can feel the rod lift towards the top when the key is rotated to ON, RUN, CRANK. Turn the ignition to RUN and the rod should lift maybe 1/4 - 3/8, turning it to the CRANK position it should lift probably closer to 1/2 additional. If all of that happens then the mechanicals of the column are intact and not suspect I wouldn't think.

Do a RUN and then a CRANK a couple times and you should feel the rod move as I suggested and also be able to hear an audible "click"!!

MrWillys

If you ground the yellow wire going to the starter enable relay it will be bypassed. If you have a VATS failure at the key switch it can be programmed out.

WVZR-1

None of the "yellow" wires or sheaths in the image have anything to do with ignition, they're part of the SIR system and need to be left alone! Do NOT tamper with anything that has a yellow connector or a bright light yellow wire or sheath around it. Any yellow in the harnesses is darker in color and are single wires.

MrWillys

While I admire this posters position to baffle people into believe the VATS, and or Passkey systems cannot be bypassed is simply untrue. The key chip resistance being read by the ECM can be programmed out, and will solve most starting issues. However, this does not stop a fault in the CCM, and VATS circuit down the line should it occur.

See here:
http://www.vatssucks.com/

It can be done, and has been done, and will continue to be bypassed no matter what spin some try to apply. A simple search for your application can, and will find the information to get rid of this outdated nusiance feature.

WVZR-1

I didn't say anything about the man's VATS - "nothing" I answered his questions directly, read the OP's first post he's looking for loose wires in the column. I explained how to check those and he responded clarifying his requests for ignition switch which has no wires in the column. Again I never mention VATS. If you're so "great" at what it is you do or mention that you can do you would have little time to spend here.

There's proper repair of OE systems and there are patches and hacks at those that generally speaking get the owner in a little deeper than it is than they need to be. Proper diagnostics and a proper repair I consider far and away a better approach to proper automotive maintenance and repair.

Are you good at what it is you do? I certainly don't know and I can assure you that I'll not be soliciting any hacks or patches that you might entertain the sale of.

There are legitimate "vendors" that pay for the privilege of the "posting of their services and or products". If you consider yourself a "capable competitor" get into your wallet and become a legitimate "VENDOR"! If you can't "move on".

I mean "no ill will" but you've actually asked for it since day one of your arrival!

MrWillys

My site is dedicated to providing complete information for anyone to program on their own, and I've not hawked my site here for profit in anyway. I've given my knowledge freely, and you turned your misunderstanding of the OP's post into a personal attack against me.

Clearly the OP is asking about the key switch. Your reference to people who bypass VATS is ridiculous. Are you claiming everything should be left completely stock? That is your misguided argument against people who believe VATS should be bypassed to stop being stranded while out with the car. Should we not build performance engines, change rearend gears? You've offered to help people here. I sent a kid an o-ring kit with pintle caps at my expense.

It's one thing to wrong, but not to admit it is quite another. You attacked me in another thread about VATS delete saying it wouldn't start if done. Poppycock, you were wrong and won't admit it. I'm no different than you, just not arrogant about.

I've got a guy in Georgia I sold an adapter too for $85. Adapter $35, Chip $5, and shipping $5, PayPal got 3%. He's datalogged a few times, and I've now sent him 5 more chips. Am I making a profit? I've helped people who were burned by some of the biggest retailers out there selling 6 cylinder memcals.

Do I deserve a spanking from you for your failed post. I don't think so. Going on about ignition switch when clearly he's talking about a key was your mistake not mine!

choopes

I appreciate the hejp from both you guys. I tried to fix it right. There are a lot of things that must happrn before you can crank, Now I;m to the point, I just want to crank it from the key switch. I looked at the plug you described on my lunch break. Next I wanna check the rod,
and switch. Should have more time with this weekend,