Use Chamois or other
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Use Chamois or other
Until my chamois shredded from years of use I used it to dry my cars.
Are microfibers or terrycloth better for drying? Corvette is black, tough color to keep clean.
Tx for all the responses-I am "old" school and wondered why you don't see chamois mentioned anymore!
I bought an absorber to try, TX
Are microfibers or terrycloth better for drying? Corvette is black, tough color to keep clean.
Tx for all the responses-I am "old" school and wondered why you don't see chamois mentioned anymore!
I bought an absorber to try, TX
Last edited by Richard Raichert; 01-17-2014 at 05:23 PM. Reason: responses
#2
Le Mans Master
I use a drying cloth called the "Absorber". Works like a chamois but in my opinion MUCH better. Bought one back in 2009 and have been using the same once since. I bought it at Advance Auto for about $10.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=absorber
#3
Racer
I use a drying cloth called the "Absorber". Works like a chamois but in my opinion MUCH better. Bought one back in 2009 and have been using the same once since. I bought it at Advance Auto for about $10.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=absorber
Joel
#4
Racer
You will get dozens of different answers, but chamois are OLD SCHOOL. I will never use a chamois on any of my vehicles again,they will give fine scratches to your car, they have nowhere for the fine dirt particles to go. Waffle weave towels have hundreds of pockets to trap any particles left behind. I have a 1990 black Vert and all I use is Adams Great White. You can dry your whole car without wringing it out! It is a waffle weave drying towel & their micro fiber towels are the best. If you do order from them use coupon code "VETTE" for a 10% discount.
#5
Melting Slicks
You will get dozens of different answers, but chamois are OLD SCHOOL. I will never use a chamois on any of my vehicles again,they will give fine scratches to your car, they have nowhere for the fine dirt particles to go. Waffle weave towels have hundreds of pockets to trap any particles left behind. I have a 1990 black Vert and all I use is Adams Great White. You can dry your whole car without wringing it out! It is a waffle weave drying towel & their micro fiber towels are the best. If you do order from them use coupon code "VETTE" for a 10% discount.
#7
Burning Brakes
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There are any number of synthetic dry cloths that work just fine. I've
used Armor-All brand and The Absorber.
It's important to thoroughly wet these first, then wring them out,
then start drying. When they are dry, they absorb very very slowly. Once
wet and wrung, they suck it up.
Chuck
used Armor-All brand and The Absorber.
It's important to thoroughly wet these first, then wring them out,
then start drying. When they are dry, they absorb very very slowly. Once
wet and wrung, they suck it up.
Chuck
Last edited by Chuck Tribolet; 01-11-2014 at 12:54 PM.
#8
Burning Brakes
I use a drying cloth called the "Absorber". Works like a chamois but in my opinion MUCH better. Bought one back in 2009 and have been using the same once since. I bought it at Advance Auto for about $10.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=absorber
I use the Absorber, as recommended by my gearhead neighbor. I love it. Everyone who washes/dries their own car should have one (or two). My neighbor has used the same one for over a decade, so they last as well.
#10
Melting Slicks
I also use the ArmorAll Absorber-type on my cars, including two black ones. I store in (damp) in its container. The last chamois I got was so thin and fragile, not to mention expensive, that it quickly became useless.
Recently, I found that following the absorber with a soft dry cloth really brings the polish back, making the cars nice and slick again. I think the minerals in the water, left when the tiny drops evaporate, were causing me to wax the cars too often.
Recently, I found that following the absorber with a soft dry cloth really brings the polish back, making the cars nice and slick again. I think the minerals in the water, left when the tiny drops evaporate, were causing me to wax the cars too often.
#11
Race Director
#12
Le Mans Master
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IMO, The best way is a LEAF BLOWER, followed by a spritz of your favorite show quality shine product using a clean (fresh washed) microfiber towel.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 01-12-2014 at 07:05 AM.
#13
Melting Slicks
IMO, The best way is a LEAF BLOWER, followed by a spritz of your favorite show quality shine product using a clean (fresh washed) microfiber towel.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
#14
Safety Car
I dunno whyJacksonville water is so bad but you cant leave it on your car. I dont worry much about rainwater droplets but i use an Absorber style cloth to get the nasty city water off. Doesnt matter what color it is, it all looks like crap. And I HATE drying the Suburban off. Too much acreage!!
#15
I also use a cordless leaf blower. The none contact method of drying eliminates the chance of scratching and wearing the wax/sealant off. It also allows you to get the water out of all those little traps designed into the C4's body. As far as blowing dirt at the car I have never had an issue with it. It can't be worse then driving around with all that road junk hitting it. I mainly use it after getting stuck in the rain. It is only recently that I started washing my 96'. I always just sprayed it down with Windex and wiped it off then hit it with detailer spritz. In the sixteen years I've owned it I only washed it maybe four times. Three of those in the last four months. I now use a product called no-rinse wash. Does a great job and also reseals the paint. I'm real happy with the way the paint held up. It still looks new so I must be doing something right.
Last edited by Klyde; 01-12-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#17
Melting Slicks
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IMO, The best way is a LEAF BLOWER, followed by a spritz of your favorite show quality shine product using a clean (fresh washed) microfiber towel.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
The air dry method obviously avoids any possibility of scrubbing the paint with microscopic silicates imbedded in that old Absorber or chamois or waffle pad, etc. AND, it has the advantage of blowing the water out of the body seams, from behind the mirrors, and in the corner of the hatch and so forth.
When my leaf blower isn't available, then I do prefer the Absorber. But, we all know that even when hand washing, there always seems to be that little spot that was missed and goes unnoticed until you see the dirt smudge on the (Absorber). Now it has silicates imbedded in it to act upon the paint like sandpaper from then on. (I've tried washing the Absorber as they say you can, but for whatever reason, it seems to ruin its ability to absorb as well after. Might be the type of laundry detergent used? I dunno.)
Blow dried (Zaino), followed by a spritz of shine enhancer and a rub with a fresh mico fiber towel. It had been 4 years since it received the "full Monty" Dawn stripping/buffing/sealer routine.
As for the comment that using a leaf blower is blowing stuff at 150 mph if you think about it, if t here's enough "stuff" in the air then what do you think WIPING it with a towel is doing to the finish.
I've been "blow drying" my cars for over 15 years and not a swirl or a scratch. Not one.
#19
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A new 100% terry cloth is good, a microfiber towel is good. Any car wash product is a good as advertised. All of them are good as long they are CLEAN.
You can have a $200 microfiber towel, and if it has dirt or sand in it, it isn't worth a damn.
You can have a $200 microfiber towel, and if it has dirt or sand in it, it isn't worth a damn.