Theft System Fuse on my '89
03-26-2014, 08:47 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Theft System Fuse on my '89
Probably should have posted this under C4 Tech, but decided to try here. My '89 has started blowing the 20 amp fuse that supports my anti-theft system. I rarely, if ever, use the system. But it's a pain-in-the-butt because when the fuse blows the car won't start. So now I've got a car full of spare 20-amp fuses, but would rather have a solution. Any thoughts?
Last edited by ckwhite; 03-26-2014 at 08:48 PM. Reason: clarification
03-27-2014, 02:55 AM
#2
Race Director
It's not at all clear which anti-theft system you're talking about. Do you have an aftermarket system?
The part that I don't understand is "I rarely use it". This doesn't make sense with the stock systems, since the TDS is armed every time you lock the door and VATS uses the resistor pellet in the ignition key every time you start the engine. Based on this, I assume you have some kind of aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system. Is that correct?
The part that I don't understand is "I rarely use it". This doesn't make sense with the stock systems, since the TDS is armed every time you lock the door and VATS uses the resistor pellet in the ignition key every time you start the engine. Based on this, I assume you have some kind of aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system. Is that correct?
03-28-2014, 07:21 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It's not at all clear which anti-theft system you're talking about. Do you have an aftermarket system?
The part that I don't understand is "I rarely use it". This doesn't make sense with the stock systems, since the TDS is armed every time you lock the door and VATS uses the resistor pellet in the ignition key every time you start the engine. Based on this, I assume you have some kind of aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system. Is that correct?
The part that I don't understand is "I rarely use it". This doesn't make sense with the stock systems, since the TDS is armed every time you lock the door and VATS uses the resistor pellet in the ignition key every time you start the engine. Based on this, I assume you have some kind of aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system. Is that correct?
03-29-2014, 01:53 AM
#4
Race Director
The alarm system honks the horn if the door is opened while it's armed. That's all it does. It has nothing to do with starting the car (that's VATS). You might have two separate problems.
If your horn starts honking at random times it's almost always a problem with the door switch. That one is located on the hinge pillar.
If the car sometimes won't start, it's usually either a dirty resistor pellet in the ignition key, dirty contacts inside the lock cylinder or a broken wire in the column. The VATS wires are very small and they get flexed every time the ignition switch is turned so they sometimes break at the lock cylinder end.
If your horn starts honking at random times it's almost always a problem with the door switch. That one is located on the hinge pillar.
If the car sometimes won't start, it's usually either a dirty resistor pellet in the ignition key, dirty contacts inside the lock cylinder or a broken wire in the column. The VATS wires are very small and they get flexed every time the ignition switch is turned so they sometimes break at the lock cylinder end.
03-29-2014, 01:05 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The alarm system honks the horn if the door is opened while it's armed. That's all it does. It has nothing to do with starting the car (that's VATS). You might have two separate problems.
If your horn starts honking at random times it's almost always a problem with the door switch. That one is located on the hinge pillar.
If the car sometimes won't start, it's usually either a dirty resistor pellet in the ignition key, dirty contacts inside the lock cylinder or a broken wire in the column. The VATS wires are very small and they get flexed every time the ignition switch is turned so they sometimes break at the lock cylinder end.
If your horn starts honking at random times it's almost always a problem with the door switch. That one is located on the hinge pillar.
If the car sometimes won't start, it's usually either a dirty resistor pellet in the ignition key, dirty contacts inside the lock cylinder or a broken wire in the column. The VATS wires are very small and they get flexed every time the ignition switch is turned so they sometimes break at the lock cylinder end.
03-30-2014, 12:24 AM
#6
Race Director
Maybe your setup is different than mine.
I have a 15 amp THEFT fuse behind the center cluster in the auxiliary fuse panel. That one is for the TDS system (the one that honks the horn).
I have a 10 amp VATS fuse in the fuse panel at the end of the dash. That one is obviously for VATS. Since my year was the first one with VATS, they might have changed things later.
I suggest you get a FSM (Factory Service Manual), which will tell you exactly what that THEFT fuse is for and how everything is connected.
I have a 15 amp THEFT fuse behind the center cluster in the auxiliary fuse panel. That one is for the TDS system (the one that honks the horn).
I have a 10 amp VATS fuse in the fuse panel at the end of the dash. That one is obviously for VATS. Since my year was the first one with VATS, they might have changed things later.
I suggest you get a FSM (Factory Service Manual), which will tell you exactly what that THEFT fuse is for and how everything is connected.