karlranks

Hi Guys! I am new here and hoping to get some help in getting car started.
Car was driving and shut down. I bought a new battery it Cranks,No Start. I had someone test the voltage to Fuel pump,Voltage is going to pump but pump does not run. Fuel pump fuse is good.
I checked fuel pump relay and replaced it after finding that two of the Insulation was partially gone and had been touching, Could this have damaged the pump? I replaced the Relay and fixed the wires and my friend checked it and its ok now.
I know I will have to replace the pump, we checked fuel rail and no pressure or fuel coming to the schraeder valve. .
Next I am not getting any spark, he checked it from spark plug with spark tester and no spark, plugs and wires have less than 2000 mls.
Car is Tuned Port Fuel Injection,Aluminum heads.
We did not have time to do anymore tests and now I am stuck.
What should be my next step ? aside from the Fuel Pump, I know that needs to be changed but how do I proceed to get spark. I also would like to know where to locate the area to check for codes. The car was running and just shut down while driving,had almost full tank gas.
I towed it home and parked it. Does this car have a Crank position sensor? Please feel free to jump in.

Thanks!

hooked073

first things first if you have no fuel pressure when you turn the key to crank fix that. If you replace the relay it is most likely the fuel pump. I do not have the trouble shooting tree infront of me so maybe some one else can jump in with the procedure to check if you have no fuel pressure

Cliff Harris

You can force the fuel pump to come on by removing the connector from the oil pressure switch and shorting the contacts in the connector together. There is a locking collar around the connector, so you have to unlatch that to get the connector off. It's the connector with the red and orange wires:

srayney

I had this happen to me back in November of '13. Here is what I did and what I found:

You can check the fuel pressure by renting or borrowing a fuel pressure guage that connects on to the fuel rail.
- You can find this connector on the passenger side rail just under the plenum. The pressure should come up to about 42 to 45 PSI and SLOWLY (like several hours) return to 0 PSI once the key is turned back off.

If this does not happen, as mine did not, you could have either a bad fuel pressure regulator or a bad fuel pump. (I had replaced the regulator a couple of years prior with a new aluminum one, so I went with the fuel pump) Neither part is very expensive...

Next, check to ensure your injectors are firing. I used a 12-volt light and soldered wires to it to use as a noid light. Once you have the wires attached to the light, remove one of your fuel injector plugs, then push your newly-soldered leads from the light into each side of your injector connector. When you turn your key and crank you engine over, you should see the light light when the injector fire signal hits the plug. If this does not happen, you may have a VATS issue or other existing issue with the injector wiring.

Lastly, I performed a compression check. Each cylinder should have about 75 - 80 PSI reading after cranking it over several times. (some more, some may have less, depending on mileage) My compression check revealed 0 PSI. I was idling in my driveway when mine shut down. I found that I had broken teeth on my timing gears and the timing chain was in very poor shape. I was lucky, in that, after replacing my gears and chain, my car fired right up.


Hope this helps

Steve

karlranks

Thanks Guys! Remember in my initial post I said I checked the fuel pressure gauge and there isn't any fuel, no noise from fuel pump coming on even after we fixed and replace the relay.
We checked to see voltage is going to pump from the connectors near the gas cover section, we saw voltage and conclude that the fuel pump may be the cause and I will be removing the pump as soon as i have the time. My Other concern is why I am not getting any spark which is a different problem than the fuel, I plan to check the ignition system and would also like some input on it , keep in mind the car was driveable and shut down while driving also there are a few other things i mentioned in my original post if anyone have any input on those will be gladly appreciated.
Thanks for all the help, I will check back in again to see what you may recommend me doing as my knowledge is limited .
Thanks again.

karlranks

Cliff! what is your reasoning for shorting out the oil pressure switch? I believe i read somewhere that the oil pressure switch or relay is a secondary means of ensuring that your car runs in case the fuel pump relay is bad (something to that effect) I am not a fan of shorting things out but I would like to know your reasoning on this method.

Thanks.

ghoastrider1

just spray some either in it, or squirt some gas over the TB. See if it starts.

Cliff Harris

Trust me. I'm a trained professional. 50 years experience as an electronic engineer. "Short out" means "make a connection". The rationale behind this is shown by this wiring diagram:



By connecting the two pins on the oil pressure switch connector together you are supplying 12 volts to the fuel pump. The ignition switch does not have to be on to do this.

Your problem sounds like either a bad ignition module (inside the distributor) or a bad pickup coil (also inside the distributor). The ECM turns on the fuel pump relay when it sees reference pulses from the ignition module. It also uses those pulses to synchronize the firing of the fuel injectors to the rotation of the engine. Without those pulses nothing happens. Most auto parts stores can test ignition modules. Make sure there is thermal grease under it when you reinstall it.

karlranks

Hi Cliff, Thanks for the info, I now understand the term you are using when you say (short out) you are saying make a connection.
I was remembering fixing the two wires that was touching together at the Fuel pump relay and figured by them touching might have shorted out something like the relay itself or even the pump so when you said to short out the switch it threw me off.
Now we did check voltage going to the pump and see 12 volts and did not hear the pump come on so I was planning on taking pump out.

I will also check the ignition system like you said to see if any problem.

Thanks a lot! Will update soon.