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LT1 cam swap gaskets

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Old 09-01-2014, 08:04 PM
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JD1964
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Default LT1 cam swap gaskets

This will be my first LT based cam swap. What are the gaskets needed for the cam swap? Is it cheaper to buy a kit in which I may not be using all the gaskets? What's the best way to go about this?

I know the following would be needed;

Timing cover, crank seal, intake manifold, valve cover.

Can I leave the tstat housing and throttle body intact or will I need those gaskets too?
Old 09-02-2014, 12:37 AM
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Silver96ce
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Originally Posted by John Dirks Jr
This will be my first LT based cam swap. What are the gaskets needed for the cam swap? Is it cheaper to buy a kit in which I may not be using all the gaskets? What's the best way to go about this?

I know the following would be needed;

Timing cover, crank seal, intake manifold, valve cover.

Can I leave the tstat housing and throttle body intact or will I need those gaskets too?
Add oil pan as you have to remove to get timing cover off. I bought Fel Pro except for the passenger exhaust manifold for which I ordered GM (reason why I needed exh. man. gasket later on). The timing cover set should come with water pump seal, opti seal and crank seal (at least Fel Pro does). The oil pan set should include the oil filter adapter seal. The intake manifold should come with the EGR gasket and I believe Throttle body gasket.

I am in the middle of an opti replacement and mild cam upgrade myself. FSM requires removal of exhaust, passenger cat, starter, oil pan. Manual also requires removal of throttle body and EGR in order to get to all the intake bolts. I removed the water pump with the thermostat on it so I don't see the need to remove it separately.

So far I snapped one of the passenger exhaust manifold flange bolts so I had to remove the manifold to drill out the bolt, clean the threads and replace all three of the bolts with new. I also snapped the bolt holding the exhaust to the back of the cat on the drivers side (fortunately the two studs held) but I am going to try and drill it out and replace it with the cat on the car. I am hoping to avoid removal of AC condenser but I'll see. I am getting ready to pull the starter and oil pan next. With the starter off I am going to replace the solenoid plunger and copper contacts (a mini rebuild) since I won't be going near it again for a while (hopefully). I am debating whether to replace the post cat O2 sensors since it will be much easier with the exhaust and passenger cat off the car. But the car only has 54K and no problems with the sensors to date.

I also got a set of valve guide seals since the springs are getting replaced.

Good luck with the cam swap.

Last edited by Silver96ce; 09-02-2014 at 12:43 AM.
Old 09-02-2014, 12:41 AM
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Silver96ce
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Also I can't remember whether the timing set comes with the water pump gaskets. I'll have to check tomorrow if it did or I ordered them separately. I'm inside and everything is in detached garage.
Old 09-02-2014, 01:45 AM
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ANTI VENOM
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I thought there was a "cam swap" gasket set. Sorry I didn't look for it.
Old 09-02-2014, 05:36 AM
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Wow! More involved than I thought but I can handle it.
Old 09-02-2014, 06:29 AM
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byynow
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I recently replaced the W/pump drive (grooved from seal) and timing chain and did not remove the exhaust. I did raise and block the engine, about 3/4", to give a little extra room to pull the pan. As I recall, the Fel-Pro timing set came with W/pump gaskets. You have to remove the oil sensor from the side of the pan, to remove the pan. Mine needed a new washer.

Check the oil sending units (2) at the back of the block for leakage. One of mine was leaking.
Old 09-02-2014, 06:50 AM
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JD1964
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I'll be doing a rear gear swap at the same time and from what I can see, the exhaust will have to come off for that anyway. So, whether or not removing the exhaust is required for the cam swap is a moot point in my case.
Old 09-02-2014, 09:48 AM
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I was hoping to get away without removing the exhaust but the cat would not budge after I loosened the exhaust clamp and unbolted it from the exhaust manifold and its bracket. After 18 years some things don't like to move (hence the broken stud and bolt). I had even soaked the connection between the cat and exhaust for a couple of days with PBblaster - still no go. Finally after dropping the exhaust with the cat on it, it took a few minutes to finally get it to move and then come out.
Old 09-02-2014, 11:32 PM
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I got my gasket sets.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-CS9966

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-MS95580

BTW I'm going with a Lloyd Elliott custom grind. 215/227 .547/.565 112 LSA. I told him stock LT1 heads and exhaust with auto and stock stall speed and this is the cam he recommended.

I'm also using Lunati valve springs, rocker arms and Trickflow pushrods recommended by Lloyd. I'm doing a rear gear swap (out with 2.59, in with 3.54) at the same time so when I ship the ECM out for speedo calibration I'll also have it tuned for the new cam setup.

Got a ton of stuff going on in my like right now so it will be a couple months till I get this all done. I will keep you posted on progress.

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