Starting issues any ideas
10-16-2014, 08:10 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Starting issues any ideas
So I have owned the car for about 3 months. I went to leave work today and when I went to turn the key the car did nothing. Although all the power items in the dash came on and were as bright as usual. I messed with the Auto shifter and steering wheel thinking that its something to do with the that; still nothing. I had someone give me a jump thinking this won't really help and wow it fired right up. When I got home I checked the battery cables to make sure they were good and a battery was put in from the start. I went to start it and it fired right up I felt good so I pulled it in the garage thinking I was good. Decided to go to the store and the damn thing did it again nothing. I turned on the headlights and they were bright but no reaction when I turn the key on. When I jump it the car starts right up though? Am I missing something? Any ideas?
10-16-2014, 09:18 PM
#4
What year?
What does the voltmeter do with "key on" but not cranking when this happens. Voltmeter when attempting to crank? You mention it will "jump start" every time and crank/run. Every time?
I wouldn't be concerned right now with VATS.
What does the voltmeter do with "key on" but not cranking when this happens. Voltmeter when attempting to crank? You mention it will "jump start" every time and crank/run. Every time?
I wouldn't be concerned right now with VATS.
10-16-2014, 09:27 PM
#5
My 88 does the same thing! I open hood and close it! Think it has to do with factory alarm another thing I picked up myself is when I jump in I turn key on and wait till guages do the count down when everything is zero I hit the key not only does it always start ! Unless I shut it off leave door open it doesn't like that eather! but also I don't get the dash glitch guages blinking on and off bright to black jiggy thing!! Just saying !
10-16-2014, 10:17 PM
#6
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the help. Its a 91. Today was the first time it happened and it did it twice. Now that I know what VATS is I think that is the problem. So where am I putting the voltmeter when the "key is on"? Answer to second question is this happened twice and with a jump start it started, maybe I just got lucky. I have cleaned the key and the ignition and it seems to start tonight. We shall see tomorrow.
10-17-2014, 04:16 AM
#7
Race Director
The VATS system has a timer built in that won't let you start the car if the wrong key pellet resistance is seen. It times out after about 3 to 5 minutes, so what happens is the key pellet is dirty or something and the VATS kicks in and prevents the car from starting. By the time you get the jump set up and everything, 5 minutes has passed and then it works. Sometimes you can fix this by cleaning the key pellet resistor contacts in the key.
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
10-17-2014, 08:14 AM
#8
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The VATS system has a timer built in that won't let you start the car if the wrong key pellet resistance is seen. It times out after about 3 to 5 minutes, so what happens is the key pellet is dirty or something and the VATS kicks in and prevents the car from starting. By the time you get the jump set up and everything, 5 minutes has passed and then it works. Sometimes you can fix this by cleaning the key pellet resistor contacts in the key.
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
10-17-2014, 08:26 AM
#9
Voltmeter is on the dash. You don't need to use a tool.
Do you have a second key?
I'd certainly avoid "by-pass" except maybe for some diagnostics and that's pretty straight forward. Until you do diagnostics I wouldn't assume VATS.
How old is the battery? I'd have the battery load tested regardless of age and maybe consider having the charging/cranking system maybe load tested also.
I believe I saw you post to a "parting thread" for a '91 for some AC lines. That "parting thread" was for a ZR-1/LT5. Is this car an L98 or an LT5/ZR-1?
Do you have a second key?
I'd certainly avoid "by-pass" except maybe for some diagnostics and that's pretty straight forward. Until you do diagnostics I wouldn't assume VATS.
How old is the battery? I'd have the battery load tested regardless of age and maybe consider having the charging/cranking system maybe load tested also.
I believe I saw you post to a "parting thread" for a '91 for some AC lines. That "parting thread" was for a ZR-1/LT5. Is this car an L98 or an LT5/ZR-1?
Last edited by WVZR-1; 10-17-2014 at 09:26 AM.
10-17-2014, 10:41 AM
#10
The VATS system has a timer built in that won't let you start the car if the wrong key pellet resistance is seen. It times out after about 3 to 5 minutes, so what happens is the key pellet is dirty or something and the VATS kicks in and prevents the car from starting. By the time you get the jump set up and everything, 5 minutes has passed and then it works. Sometimes you can fix this by cleaning the key pellet resistor contacts in the key.
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
The most reliable way to tell if VATS is working or not is if the starter enable relay clicks when you turn the ignition to the start position. In pre-'90 cars the relay is behind the center cluster. I believe it's at the bottom of the steering column on the firewall in 1990 and later cars (I've only owned my '86 so I'm not familiar with the newer cars).
This link will tell you a lot about VATS and how it works and how to bypass it:
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/
This is Cliff ! thanks for info seems to make sencer guess the hood thing just shook things enough to make it work! Enjoy your weekend bro!
10-17-2014, 01:11 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Ensure battery posts are clean, as are ground connections, especially in the starter circuit. Check for corrodes cables.
Eliminate the simple items, first.
Eliminate the simple items, first.
10-17-2014, 03:53 PM
#12
While working on dash and console left doors open
then car wouldn't start. Ck'd batt volts was 11.7
charged started right up. Mechanic ck'd with computer
on batt showed weak. Replaced batt never failed again.
then car wouldn't start. Ck'd batt volts was 11.7
charged started right up. Mechanic ck'd with computer
on batt showed weak. Replaced batt never failed again.
10-17-2014, 08:05 PM
#13
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Voltmeter is on the dash. You don't need to use a tool.
Do you have a second key?
I'd certainly avoid "by-pass" except maybe for some diagnostics and that's pretty straight forward. Until you do diagnostics I wouldn't assume VATS.
How old is the battery? I'd have the battery load tested regardless of age and maybe consider having the charging/cranking system maybe load tested also.
I believe I saw you post to a "parting thread" for a '91 for some AC lines. That "parting thread" was for a ZR-1/LT5. Is this car an L98 or an LT5/ZR-1?
Do you have a second key?
I'd certainly avoid "by-pass" except maybe for some diagnostics and that's pretty straight forward. Until you do diagnostics I wouldn't assume VATS.
How old is the battery? I'd have the battery load tested regardless of age and maybe consider having the charging/cranking system maybe load tested also.
I believe I saw you post to a "parting thread" for a '91 for some AC lines. That "parting thread" was for a ZR-1/LT5. Is this car an L98 or an LT5/ZR-1?
10-17-2014, 08:08 PM
#14
10-18-2014, 11:18 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
I have a '96, so I don't know how much the system changed through production years, but I have had four incidents of the VATS acting up. The first time, I freaked out, thoroughly cleaned the key and all of that. Didn't happen again for maybe a couple of years, again I cleaned my key and good to go. Didn't happen again until a couple of years ago, and it happened twice in one week. No incidents since. I think it may just be a anomoly of the system. If it happens frequently, over a short period of time, then I would start being concerned.
10-18-2014, 07:47 PM
#16
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a '96, so I don't know how much the system changed through production years, but I have had four incidents of the VATS acting up. The first time, I freaked out, thoroughly cleaned the key and all of that. Didn't happen again for maybe a couple of years, again I cleaned my key and good to go. Didn't happen again until a couple of years ago, and it happened twice in one week. No incidents since. I think it may just be a anomoly of the system. If it happens frequently, over a short period of time, then I would start being concerned.
10-19-2014, 12:23 PM
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
Posts: 20,161
Received 640 Likes
on
444 Posts
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
FWIW I keep my Vette keys on a separate key ring.
Keeps them cleaner and avoids the pellet from being worn/banged around.
Later on when I could program the chip, VATS was disabled.
Keeps them cleaner and avoids the pellet from being worn/banged around.
Later on when I could program the chip, VATS was disabled.
10-21-2014, 10:27 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
So I have owned the car for about 3 months. I went to leave work today and when I went to turn the key the car did nothing. Although all the power items in the dash came on and were as bright as usual. I messed with the Auto shifter and steering wheel thinking that its something to do with the that; still nothing. I had someone give me a jump thinking this won't really help and wow it fired right up. When I got home I checked the battery cables to make sure they were good and a battery was put in from the start. I went to start it and it fired right up I felt good so I pulled it in the garage thinking I was good. Decided to go to the store and the damn thing did it again nothing. I turned on the headlights and they were bright but no reaction when I turn the key on. When I jump it the car starts right up though? Am I missing something? Any ideas?
It is a possibility the problem could just be a starter. Sometimes they just won't work and many of the problems are caused by the solenoid.
Not sure about the 91 but if it has a security light that flashes when the door is opened (normally), if it is a true VATS event the security light will be steady ON (with the key turned to ON).
10-24-2014, 04:29 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
That is what was happening with my 84.
It would all of a sudden not start, but all of the lights etc. would work and it could be jump started. I would clean up the battery cable connection to the battery and it was good for months and then did it again - I do wash my car and under the hood all then time.
I took them apart again and they were corroded, so I cleaned the crap out of them and put some dielectric grease on them to keep them from corroding again and it has been fine.