playsdixie

I recently installed a optima yellow top......heard there was something weird about jumping them,,,wonder now if a tender works on them....I would think so...

volkswagens-for-life

Battery tender here

olympic

For how long a period of not driving would you recommend hooking up a battery tender?

volkswagens-for-life

I'd say a month or more. I've let my car sit for a month w/out issues. After that, I'd consider it 'short term storage' and start taking measures to preserve it.

WW7

The problem with just unhooking the battery for periods longer then a month or so is that you can get sulfate buildup on the lead plates.. Sulfate buildup starts when the battery goes below full charge, the lower the battery charge goes, the faster the sulfate buildup, and once the sulfate buildup starts, the batterys maximum charging capacity is diminished......The Battery Tender keeps the battery at full charge and continuously monitors the battery for any voltage loss........WW
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Nick DL

I use the tender year round for my car. So far the battery is doing well and it starts every time.

peyc2

I really don't know what "running it for 10 to 15 minutes" is doing for you. You need to get the oil temp up to at least 200 f to get any residual moisture out of the oil system, in addition your not exercising the trans and dif much either, I don't bother unless I can get the car out for a good hour run, and get all fluids up to temp and the brakes, trans and suspension fully exercised.

WW7

Just starting the car and letting it run for 10 minites could be doing more harm then good...It's allowing condensation to form inside the motor, and not letting it get hot enough to burn the moisture out of the oil or the exhaust system......WW

hcbph

I can usually get to operating temp in 10-15 minutes, that's what I want. Now on driving them, if I wait till I can drive them for more than a half hour, better figure April once we get our first real snowfall. Like I said, I try to run them at least once a month and I do have a fair sized battery charger that includes a trickle mode.

If you take them out of the garage with snow on the ground for a drive, you're not going to get them back into the garage till spring. That's the fun of living in the snowbelt, you're at the mercy of Mother Nature.

Do whatever feels best to you. I've been doing this for a lot of years and I'm comfortable with it so it will continue.

RollaMo-LT4

You might get the water temp up to what you think is operating temp in 10-15 minutes, but that is really pushing it.
But you won't be getting the oil temp up to operating temps in that time, which is more important.
You are very likely causing condensation to form inside the engine, which will not burn off in 10-15 minutes of run time.

10-15 minute run times are not good at all.

hcbph

Whatever works for someone is the best for them. I've used this method for about 10 years on my Chevelle, about 15 on a pair of T-Birds and now the Vette. Properly treated and stored with the right care and in all those years I've had a total of 1 sticky injector and that let got with a little tapping of a screwdriver.
I believe in the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' mentality. This has worked for me a lot of years without a problem.

Good luck whatever you choose.

RollaMo-LT4

Big difference in stating what "works for you", and what is a fact.
Since this is an internet forum where quite a few people will read these threads (some of which may not know any better), it is always best to state the facts.

Fact: Those 10-15 minute warmups sitting in the garage are causing more wear, sludge, etc. for your engines than if you just let them sit all winter.

Just because it works for you, does not mean it is what is universally recommended by all auto experts.
Unless you can get the complete system up to operating temps (coolant, oil, trans, differential, exhaust, etc), it is best to let them sit.

Please continue doing what "works for you".

WW7

...I have to drive at least 8 to 10 miles in cold weather to get my oil temp to show up on the gauge at 150 degrees, another 8 to 10 miles to get it up to 195 degrees..So 1/2 hour sounds about minimum to get the oil up to the proper temperture to "start" burning off the condensation..I have seen the oil from cars that haven't been run long enough in the winter to burn off condensation..If this is done often, there is a swirled cream color to the oil , sometimes with a little foam.This will definitely shorten the life of bearings in a motor and cause sludge , no doubt about it....
Here's something I do in the spring when my car has been sitting all winter....I disconnect the main distributor wire and crank the motor over about 3 times , each time for about 10 seconds....This gets oil up into the motor and starts lubricating the entire engine, so when I hook the wire back up and start the motor Im not starting a completely dry engine..This is the same principle as using a drill to spin the oil pump and prime a new engine before starting it for the first time....... WW

hcbph

I plan to. I've been doing this since back in the 70's, so how long have you and in what climate? Not just one car but multiples. I think the average life on the batteries has been about 6-8 years and that aligns with the vehicles I drive. Not everyone agrees with me, nor will everyone agree with you.

Choose your plan and play it. I've been using mine close to 40 years, have you got the same track record? I have not had any failures due to the winter processes used. My T-Bird has 100K plus on this method (20 years) and working just fine and it's serviced regularly. Only had the Vette for a year so it's still new to me but I've owned Chevy's back into the 60's and any non-year-round vehicle has been stored this way.

By the way WW7, that's not a driving situation here. You try getting a Vette out of the garage and that's where it will stay - out of the garage. Between the alley and snow, you won't get it back in without a winch pulling it in. It stays in the garage, running to operating temp and the clutch and gears do get limited exercise.

Simply we agree to disagree and I'm dropping out of this, it's not worth the time or energy. If you're happy with what you do then keep doing it and I'll do the same.

FirstC4

I fully charge it, then disconnect it. About every 6 weeks or so ill put a trickle charger on it.

Paul Workman

I'll let you know... Going on 8 years for the ZR-1, and 9 years on the C3; BOTH on the Battery Tender at all times, and both batteries kick over their starters like new!

Chemically speaking...the lead plates will become coated with sulfate, beginning immediately after it is no longer being charged. Initially, the sulfate is amorphous (gooey), but soon starts to crystallize. The crystallized layer will continue to thicken, and it does NOT conduct electricity. SO, as the crystallization spreads over the lead plates, the area of the plates is effectively reduced - effectively increasing the internal resistance. The battery's capacity to do work is degraded. This degradation will continue every time the battery is left for extended periods of time without being charged periodically. Thus, the battery will discharge even if it is disconnected, due to internal chemical changes if left unattended.

Some 30-40+ years ago, Exide provided much of the lead-acid backup and storage batteries for remote (read: mountain top) unattended radio antenna repeater sights. With proper charging techniques, these big batteries - with the same (nearly) technology as a car battery would last for extended numbers of years; primarily due to proper charging and sulfate control.

But, it was Texas Instrument that developed a chip controller for e.g., boat, truck, and automotive) charger applications which revolutionized battery chargers. These "smart chargers", are characterized by the ability to monitor the battery voltage and periodically pulse it to arrest/reverse the normal sulfate phenomenon and maintain the battery at best possible charge level (according to chemical and material state of the lead plates, etc).

This is in contrast to (dumb) chargers or simple trickle chargers which were used to charge the battery, and then removing the charger so as not to over-charge it and boil the electrolyte/water away. Without such a "smart charger" system, it took considerable attention to maintain the Lead-acid battery system at peak potential. (Fortunately, the IC's with custom programming is pretty much common place: "dumb" chargers are in the minority, and may have disappeared if not for the price.)

Anywayz...A Battery Tender (or equivalent) left on the battery whenever the (vehicle) is not in use, is the best way to keep a battery in peak perfromance for the longest time possible. Removing the charger after the battery is fully charged, harkens back to the days before "computerized" (smart chargers) were common place.

I'm curious to see how long a battery might last, now that mine are maintained with modern charging techniques. I just cranked the C3 with its 11.0:1 compression and going on 9 year old battery. The starter spun like a new battery was attached, and she fired right up! I'm in "uncharted territory" at this point!

86C4Z51

Here in the Northwest, warming up the car to operating temps (oil and coolant) takes a while in the winter. I don't drive the Vette in the winter -- it's a LOUSY snow car!

Warming the engine up so the coolant is up to temp WILL get rid of some condensation. It's not the ideal situation, but it's better than doing nothing at all, all winter long. Residual heat from the water jackets will get into the entire engine, and in many internal spots be plenty hot enough to evaporate water. As I said, it may not get rid of all condensation. Here, when the weather is below freezing for a month or so at a whack, remember that condensation is ice. Ice preserves pretty well, so it's not really an issue.

Warming the oil to 180 or so would take half an hour of driving, so that doesn't work here in the winter.

BBNJKen

I have a B/T on an Optima battery in my C3, 10 years and counting. I've used a B/T on my bike's OEM battery whenever I'm not riding it, 17 years and counting. I'm really f'n amazed at the bike battery...

So, of course I've started using a B/T when I got my C4 a year ago...

Cheers

70ZZ3 96LT4

If I am not going to use my 1996 after getting it off the lift for a trip I will put it back on the lift, disconnect the negative battery cable until it is going to be driven again. Could be 6 months or more. I put a battery charger on the battery every one or two weeks for several minutes and see what the voltage is with a meter before and after charging. My 96's batteries since my car was bought new have lasted over 8 years.
Also air up the tires since it will be sitting for a while to over 40 LBS, usually about 45 LBS for a smoother roll of the tires when it is used again.
I only start it when I am going to take it on a trip so the oil always gets up to operating temperature.