New Idea for Unsticking Hood
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New Idea for Unsticking Hood
My '88's hood was stuck (and battery dead) and no amount of coat hanger finagling would release it. So, I had it towed to a local shop. When I went to pick it up my mechanic laughed because of how easy it was to fix. What he did was get down in the driver side footwell and pull the handle as far is it would go. Then, he grabbed the cable with a pair of pliers and pulled the cable until it released. After that he tightened up the connection at the release and now it works as good as new. I have yet to try it, but if it works it may save the lives of some metal hangers.
I am not sure if this is posted somewhere else, but I never saw it during my searching for a solution.
I am not sure if this is posted somewhere else, but I never saw it during my searching for a solution.
#2
Drifting
that method wouldn't work if cable broke....although you can make them yourself for next to nothing the emergency cable release kits don't cost much and are easy to install and work great....
#4
Drifting
where's the 10% veterans discount?.....I know....
ace doesn't give it..shame on them............should have gotten it at lowes....would have only been 2 something.....
ace doesn't give it..shame on them............should have gotten it at lowes....would have only been 2 something.....
#5
Team Owner
Took some 6" wire ties from work, drilled a hole in the wiper/windscreen drip tray, and looped the tie-wraps like ron's Picture.
#8
Le Mans Master
The "tool" used for releasing the hood, cost around 20/25 bucks. Works great after you learn to use it. I had to buy one after my emergency cables broke ( poor instillation). Have now done a much better job.. its a heck of a lot easier than the "tool".
#9
Burning Brakes
I'll ask here to avoid a new thread. Is the hood supposed to "pop up" when the release is pulled? Mine just sits there and has to be pulled up from the fully closed position. The cable is adjusted right, just seems like the springs are weak.
Rick
Rick
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes, it should pop up a couple inches when released.
#11
Burning Brakes
Wouldn't be worth the three hours it would take to find these pieces at Lowes because their hired staff is too dumb to stock items in the correct bins.
#13
Burning Brakes
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...category/7709/
#14
Drifting
My 85 doesn't "pop" either....also farted around with it....changed the struts but those two little struts on a 85 wouldn't help....they help closing it so it doesn't slam but little help lifting. Guessing you'd either have to change the spring or get the mid engine strut used on later model c=4's
#16
Le Mans Master
They do have some very good staff there that know what their talking about. Trouble is, not many of them do. Look for some of the older folks. I used to be the tool "go to guy" at the local Lowes b4 I went on to better things and better paychecks.
#17
Race Director
Yes. If it doesn't then the hood studs are not centered in the hood latch holes. You need to loosen the three bolts that hold the hood studs/springs to the hood and move the plate until the stud goes into the latch hole perfectly.
The best method I've heard of (but not tried) is to put masking tape over the latch holes and then grease the stud and lower it until it just touches the masking tape and leaves a mark. That will tell you how close the studs are to the center of the latch hole.
The best method I've heard of (but not tried) is to put masking tape over the latch holes and then grease the stud and lower it until it just touches the masking tape and leaves a mark. That will tell you how close the studs are to the center of the latch hole.
#18
I made some like this a few years ago and they worked great. For my current car I got lazy and bought some pre-made ones. These can save a lot of grief for a broken cable, or just when the cables get stretched a little, especially on the passenger side which has the longest cable.
#19
Burning Brakes
Yes. If it doesn't then the hood studs are not centered in the hood latch holes. You need to loosen the three bolts that hold the hood studs/springs to the hood and move the plate until the stud goes into the latch hole perfectly.
The best method I've heard of (but not tried) is to put masking tape over the latch holes and then grease the stud and lower it until it just touches the masking tape and leaves a mark. That will tell you how close the studs are to the center of the latch hole.
The best method I've heard of (but not tried) is to put masking tape over the latch holes and then grease the stud and lower it until it just touches the masking tape and leaves a mark. That will tell you how close the studs are to the center of the latch hole.
Rick
#20
Melting Slicks
When I collected my car after the engine swap the hood got stuck---the passenger side just wouldn't release. We tried to get to the latch via the wheel well, but discovered the inner fender has a couple of rivets in addition to the sheet metal screws. That's when I thought of grabbing the cable end & pulling.
Once we got it open we removed the passenger side latch. The cable for that side had a break in the housing that prevented it from working.
I installed some emergency cables like shown in previous posts & eventually had a local dealership install a new cable.
Once we got it open we removed the passenger side latch. The cable for that side had a break in the housing that prevented it from working.
I installed some emergency cables like shown in previous posts & eventually had a local dealership install a new cable.