Ron B C4

Hi, New here and going to get my first vette. Is their and major differences between the two? Besides the possibly little better optispark?

The 2 I am inserted in are same color, close in miles and condition.

The 95 is $1,000 cheaper has all the books records seller has a clean car fax. It's all original but automatic.

The 93 $1,000 more is a 6 speed looks like I need to replace the counsel or at least the part around shifter. Didn't look super hard at what I need. If I wasn't a car fax on this one I would have to buy it.

I usually prefer a manual but as I'm getting older 54 now I thinking in a few more years I might prefer a auto.

Can will just be a weekend toy. I will be replacing a ( don't flame me LOL) 02 Mustang GT with a procharger has a little over 400 hp. Plans for the vette are just basic gears, full exhaust, AFR heads and cam. I think they should be close to the same performance.

I'm leaning more to the 95 that's cheaper and newer but has auto.

Opinions please.

DGXR

Since you aren't insisting on a manual, I suggest you get the 95 automatic. Clean Carfax doesn't really mean that much, but saving $1000 and vented optispark and no obvious repairs needed (93 console), that means a lot.

The only people who don't like the C4 automatics are diehard stick shift guys/gals. The automatic is a good reliable transmission if not abused.

Myself, I have an automatic daily driver so my 95 C4 is a toy for pleasure driving and I had to have the stick.

Ron B C4

Here is a link to the 93. I don't think it needs a actual console just a shifter trim plate. Looks separate to me but not familiar with these yet. The seats are defiantly a nicer style. Maybe I should see if he will match the price on the 95.

http://www.automaxofbrevard.net/pictures/110134

c4cruiser

It's always a good idea to buy the newest model available that fits within the budget. Chevrolet made improvements each model year that made the C4 better.

One thing about the 95 car is that the seats are slightly wider and more comfortable on long trips. Also the 95 has 13" brakes up front as standard. To get those brakes on the 93, they were part of the Z07 performance suspension package which was a coupe-only option and the ride would be somewhat stiffer but would handle better.

Of the 6 Vettes I have owned, only one was an auto but it was a good break from the manual trans cars. Manuals are fun but there are times when I wish I had an auto trans. Right now, both my '87 and '02 are sticks, and I think the next one will be an auto trans. It's not so much age (I'm 68) as it is having to deal with a stick in city traffic.

Kmcoldcars

The 93 and 95 are actually different colors. The 93 is Black Rose Metallic and the 95 is Dark Purple Metallic, which is a lighter color than the Black Rose. The drivers seat on the 93 is totally screwed, along with the top bezel plate around the shifter. Also, it looks like the 93 has the 1992 painted sawblades, not the machine polished ones correct for the 1993.
If possible post pictures of the 95 to get some better advice.

auggy

buy the 95 ----a/c uses 134a not r12 in the 95 plus you have sequential fuel injection after 94 and later.

c4cruiser

That driver's seat in the 93 will need to be replaced. The side bolster looks like the foam has completely broken of or the upholstery has torn. The left leg bolster on the passenger seat is toast too. It looks like somebody tried to keep the shifter boot in place. Those allen head screws are a poor effort at a fix.

Seats and foam will be around $1200 with the upholstery pre-installed on the foam.

The car also has the FX3 Selective Ride Control. The shocks are a special design and can be expensive to replace. Make sure everything is working properly. Is the SRC light on in the DIC when driving?

I think the 95 is looking to be a better deal.

Ozzstar

The dealer is asking $5,990 for the '93 but doesn't state the mileage. How many miles on these two cars that you are interested in?

I can't stand when people sell cars and don't disclose the mileage. It's like they are embarrassed by it and means over 100k+ miles.....it's no big deal if any car has been well maintained. Are they hiding other 'things' as well?

cormorant71

I agree with DGXR the auto is a very good transmission. Also, for my money having a ventilated opti means a lot! On a much smaller note, i think the fender "gills" on the '95 are much cooler.

Ron B C4

Both just a little over 100K miles. You guys have talked me out of the 93. The main thing drawing me to it was the 6 speed. The only thing that stands out to me about the 95 is I need to replace the weather striping. We will see what happens tomorrow.

shawn 84&92

To me, the 94 to 96 cars seem to be a little more refined and tighter when it comes to interior fit and finish. I had a 95 with 160k and a 96 with 145k both cars were rattle free, which is a far cry from my 92 and my 84.

Albani

Neither. Buy the red on red 87.
That's a great deal.
Search inventory from dealer w/ the 93.

cormorant71

Weather striping is easy to do and not a deal breaker at all. buy willcox, read the threads and watch the youtube videos. I did my '94 in one full day and love the results.

Ron B C4

I don't so much mind the L98 motor. But I just can't deal with the dash air bag set up. No offense meant to anyone that has that style.

Ron B C4

Went and looked at the 95 today with every intent on driving it home. Came away totally disappointed.

I'm not expecting a perfect car but so many problems.
http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/ctd/4857177018.html

Paint is very nice and the seats have been reupholstered. Was actualy surprised how well it ran with a auto.

Car actually has 140k miles they had a greenwood and that was the one with lower miles.
The spedo is shot. Drivers side window doesn't work bad regulator. Doth side windows are scratched bad.

SES light came on after a short ride. Stereo or speaker is screwed. Would have replaced anyways. Turn signal indicator is bad. Shift indicator doesn't work. Needs a few interior parts replaced. Probably some more but you get the ideal.

Asked if I would buy it for $3,000 but wasn't sure if he was serious or not. Also said he would fix the spedo, SES and window regulator and turn signal if I would give $100 deposit. Really not sure how I want to go on this. My gut says keep looking. But at 3k would be kind of tempting.

c345vette

go for the '95

better injection system sequential as opposed to batch

flashable computer for tuning

the 93 uses a chip in its computer

JD Shredds

Are you referring to the passenger side impact pad? The first Corvette with an airbag was the '90, which was on the driver's side. Btw, if you don't like the look of that passenger pad, they make flat panels with "Corvette" on them as replacements. Looks a lot sleeker. That '87 IS a very good deal, granted I don't care for a lot of the, eh, "additions."

Anyway... like the others, I recommend the '95 as well. Honestly just seems like the better deal, so if you're in the camp of "auto or manual" rather than "manual only," then go with the '95. But it also sounds to me like you prefer manual, so it might be worth your time to wait for the right manual to come around.

MaxDaemon

Just shows the serendipity of a forum - I didn't realize that wasn't an airbag, JD! I also dislike it a LOT - I'll look for a replacement. My passengers can worry about their own bloody foreheads.

Paul Workman

I favor the 95s for all the reasons mentioned. However...with that much you can SEE wrong, coupled with the dealer willing to chop the price by 40% is NOT a selling point, in this case. To me, it screams, "just wait till you see what else it has wrong with it!!"

I'd rather pay something like $10k for a pristine 95 (or 96) in "perfect" condition than half that much on a car with that many visible issues. Just saying.

c4cruiser

Sounds like you are going to have to keep looking. There are lots of nice C4's out there Just takes some time and effort and maybe a road trip. Always look for the beat car for the money you have to spend.

Even with a $3000 asking price, the issues you mentioned can be expensive to fix. From what you mentioned, I would expect another $3K to get the car back to great shape doing it on your own. Even if the car lot fixed the problems as they said, there's no guarantee they would use quality parts or fix any problems properly.

With 140K on it, how are the brakes? Any indication of loose steering or wandering? Brakes can be $1000 to $1200 to have done, a new rack $600 installed w/alignment, tires (if needed) another $500-$700.