got a dyno tune on my 96 today. 459 hp 436 tq.
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
the asr will get you killed!!! it's got to be the worst traction control ever created. it's like turning the engine off when it comes on. then seems like it takes forever to turn off. not good when trying to merge. I hate the asr. 1st thing I do after I start the engine, turn that junk off.
#23
Race Director
I'm not much of a driver to say it sucks, but I thought it's been helpful at times. Usually in the rain, or punching it from a stand still. Then again, how many cars had TC in 92? Turning it off as soon as the car starts,
#24
Well, that kind of rwhp will have traction problems,
You are putting down a pile of beans with that C4! I am running mid to high 12's with street tires (Michelins) with the power levels I have and I am over 100 hp less than you at wheels, so......yea.....
You are putting down a pile of beans with that C4! I am running mid to high 12's with street tires (Michelins) with the power levels I have and I am over 100 hp less than you at wheels, so......yea.....
#26
Safety Car
Great numbers ! I think there was easily another 1000 rpm in that motor on the dyno the curve was still climbing it seems. Also good looking spoiler ! hands down the best Ive seen for a c4 and I think it $$ in the bank should you make them.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'd like to see how yours works compared to mine. I've never been in another vette with t/c so maybe it's something wrong with mine.
#28
Race Director
Whenever we meet up at C&C or something, I'd take you for a ride in my car. If I still have it at the time. Getting ready to sell it and buy an Admiral Blue
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 02-17-2015 at 10:33 PM.
#30
I am normally the in the anti spoiler crowd but that is the only one I have ever seen that did not appear obnoxious.
I have the 91-96 year on my 85 (as you can see from my avatar so it would work nicely); actually its a 90 ZR1 replica rear to accommodate the early C4 beltline but is the proper width for the standard C4; not as wide as the ZR1.
#31
Le Mans Master
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NOW you're havin' fun!!
I noticed the graph cuts off at 6000 rpm, yet HP has yet to peak. It looks like the operator(?) was cutting it off prematurely, or ?? Seems there's a little bit more left on the table above 6000.
I noticed the graph cuts off at 6000 rpm, yet HP has yet to peak. It looks like the operator(?) was cutting it off prematurely, or ?? Seems there's a little bit more left on the table above 6000.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 02-19-2015 at 06:48 AM. Reason: grammar
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thank you Paul, yes it's a blast to drive. it pulls hard and quick to 7200, I used to shift @7000 but the dyno shows it peaks @ 6000 and starts to drop. you can't see it in the pic. so i'll prob shift @6500 now
#33
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Oh and yes, add me to the list of "I'll take that spoiler too" if you make one as nice as yours for my ride.
I am normally the in the anti spoiler crowd but that is the only one I have ever seen that did not appear obnoxious.
I have the 91-96 year on my 85 (as you can see from my avatar so it would work nicely); actually its a 90 ZR1 replica rear to accommodate the early C4 beltline but is the proper width for the standard C4; not as wide as the ZR1.
I am normally the in the anti spoiler crowd but that is the only one I have ever seen that did not appear obnoxious.
I have the 91-96 year on my 85 (as you can see from my avatar so it would work nicely); actually its a 90 ZR1 replica rear to accommodate the early C4 beltline but is the proper width for the standard C4; not as wide as the ZR1.
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#35
6th Gear
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#36
Le Mans Master
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BTW, if you don't have a shift light, that would be much preferable to the tach, IMO. And as far as shift point goes, with the light you can easily set it anywhere you want it to go off.
By doing some rolling pulls through a shift or two with a stopwatch, you can identify the ideal shift point. However, you want to do the pulls with the engine temps and weather conditions as close as possible.
Also worth mentioning, the shift point is significantly lower if you power shift (don't let up between gears). For example, GM's Jim "Jingles" power shifts the LT5 at around 6300 which is just below the power peak on a stock motor. This is in contrast to the best times (in the quarter) when lifting between shifts - done closer to 7000 for best results. (Truly, 6300 is short-shifting the motor, but the energy is not lost as it is stored in the dual mass FW until dumped into the drive train once the clutch is lifted.)
Anyway... Sounds like you have a tiger by the tail there!!
Last edited by Paul Workman; 02-20-2015 at 09:08 AM.
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thank you. I will indeed.
Paul, I do have a shift lite but I can't really see it good. it's in the a/c vent. I'm going to move it. when I go to the track I will find out where it runs best.
I have a 700r4 with a 10 in. 3500 stall in my 82, it's fun but I prefer the 6spd.in my 96. I think it's just personal preference.
I thought so.
BTW, if you don't have a shift light, that would be much preferable to the tach, IMO. And as far as shift point goes, with the light you can easily set it anywhere you want it to go off.
By doing some rolling pulls through a shift or two with a stopwatch, you can identify the ideal shift point. However, you want to do the pulls with the engine temps and weather conditions as close as possible.
Also worth mentioning, the shift point is significantly lower if you power shift (don't let up between gears). For example, GM's Jim "Jingles" power shifts the LT5 at around 6300 which is just below the power peak on a stock motor. This is in contrast to the best times (in the quarter) when lifting between shifts - done closer to 7000 for best results. (Truly, 6300 is short-shifting the motor, but the energy is not lost as it is stored in the dual mass FW until dumped into the drive train once the clutch is lifted.)
Anyway... Sounds like you have a tiger by the tail there!!
BTW, if you don't have a shift light, that would be much preferable to the tach, IMO. And as far as shift point goes, with the light you can easily set it anywhere you want it to go off.
By doing some rolling pulls through a shift or two with a stopwatch, you can identify the ideal shift point. However, you want to do the pulls with the engine temps and weather conditions as close as possible.
Also worth mentioning, the shift point is significantly lower if you power shift (don't let up between gears). For example, GM's Jim "Jingles" power shifts the LT5 at around 6300 which is just below the power peak on a stock motor. This is in contrast to the best times (in the quarter) when lifting between shifts - done closer to 7000 for best results. (Truly, 6300 is short-shifting the motor, but the energy is not lost as it is stored in the dual mass FW until dumped into the drive train once the clutch is lifted.)
Anyway... Sounds like you have a tiger by the tail there!!
I have a 700r4 with a 10 in. 3500 stall in my 82, it's fun but I prefer the 6spd.in my 96. I think it's just personal preference.
#40
Drifting
Great numbers. Think I will give them a call. Mine has a mail order tune so I would like to get it fine tuned and see where my numbers wind up on GS023.
Do you make the appointment through the shop or Moe? Also, what is the cost?
Thanks
Do you make the appointment through the shop or Moe? Also, what is the cost?
Thanks